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Author Topic: Orcon Lamphouse Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-07-2017 10:48 PM                     They have been baking in stray UV light from the lit lamp. Looks like the inside of how MOST Strong lamp houses get after a few years.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 09-08-2017 08:01 AM                     I never understood why Strong couldn't use UV resistant wires like most everyone else did. They'd put a shield over the igniter PCB to help protect it but the insulation would fall off the wires all over them. The other oddity is that EVERYONE used white (natural) zip ties in a lamphouse rather than uv resistant ones (black). Use black zip ties, they'll still be holding years down the road. Use white ones, after the first year, they crumble off. Mark has you looking in the right direction. Using capacitors and diodes from the 70s are definitely the first things to start changing. Pay close attention to cracked resistors too. As things heat up (electrically and from lamp exposure), you will get intermittent connections.  |  IP: Logged Steve McAndrew Film Handler Posts: 95 From: North Yorkshire, UK Registered: May 2015 posted 09-09-2017 03:00 PM                     When swapping capacitors in this unit should I try to match any other values other than voltage and capacitance? I have swapped all the large diodes without any improvement. The flicker is present immediately when the lamp strikes, it doesn't seem to get worse when the unit gets warm. Does that suggest anything in particular? The flicker is not regular, it's almost like a loose connection type flicker. Thanks again  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-09-2017 03:21 PM                     quote: Steve Guttag I never understood why Strong couldn't use UV resistant wires They literally became an electrocution hazard when changing a lamp once the insulation started falling off. Using teflon insulated wire would have been the right way to do it, but it's kind of a pain to work with, and about 6X more expensive than even the UV resistant stuff Christie used. Mark  |  IP: Logged Steve McAndrew Film Handler Posts: 95 From: North Yorkshire, UK Registered: May 2015 posted 09-13-2017 03:21 PM                     I have replaced many of the components as suggested and it has improved things greatly. I am still left with a different type of flicker, this time it is a regular very high-frequency flicker, like a very fast strobe light. Does that suggest a fault with any particular part of the rectifier? Thanks  |  IP: Logged Jonathan Wood Expert Film Handler Posts: 206 From: Oxfordshire, United kingdom Registered: Jan 2008 posted 09-15-2017 05:32 AM                     Hi Steve, what size screen are you using ? It could be that you're just putting too much light onto the screen . If the screen is too bright , regular shutter flicker becomes more noticeable i.e. 48hz from each frame being shown twice .  |  IP: Logged

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