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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Meyer Sound Acheron Designer vs. JBL M2
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 02-15-2018 06:59 AM
Why not? Have you looked at the plot of the 2269 in a sealed box? With a single filter, one could pretty much choose their LF response. Sure, it will take substantial power at those low frequencies but that is something that the 2269 can do quite well and with a 3 cubic foot enclosure, it would be tiny. in fact, with the 12.5" driver depth, it almost a challenge to make the box that fits it. You, pretty much, need the face of the box be just the driver. With two of them and enough power (which I don't think will be a problem), I could have it go as low as the room would allow and given the size of the room, one couldn't hear the 18Hz, if the movies actually had it recorded. Given it is just a six sided box, I'm tempted to try it just to see how it goes.
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Marcel Birgelen
Film God
Posts: 3357
From: Maastricht, Limburg, Netherlands
Registered: Feb 2012
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posted 09-01-2018 04:10 PM
On the picture it's hard to see how deep the platform is. Did you connect it to the baffle wall? And aren't you afraid about vibrations being transferred to the baffle wall construction that way?
Besides loads of mineral wool, we've ended up putting in a bunch of mass-loaded vinyl as sound barrier. The problem with mass-loaded vinyl is though, that it reflects sound back to quite some extend, even if you're going to put it in between two layers of drywall. In order to get the RT60 timings right we covered large parts of the walls and especially the back wall with melamine foam panels, which we itself covered with permanently flame-retardant fabric.
In order to stop the sound from traveling via the HVAC system, simply installing "sound proofed" flexible ducts wasn't enough, we installed special noise dampening couplings, which effectively did the job of entirely eliminating any audible sound coming via the HVAC system. The great thing is, it worked both ways. You don't hear the HVAC system or any noises coming via it, in the room either, or you must put your ears almost besides a vent.
Do you have sufficient height and room in the back to build a proper projector room?
I'm pretty interested in your opinion on the Severtson SAT-4K screen. We've tried a woven screen before (don't know the brand anymore, but it definitly wasn't Severtson), but the results were less than stellar. On the first row, during bright scenes, everything looked like a painting.
What's the planned distance between the screen and the first row?
And... are you planning to install a movable masking system?
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 09-01-2018 08:17 PM
The speaker platform was actually the first part of the "wall." The rest of it was built from that and there is sufficient room behind that for servicing the speakers/wiring and such.
As for vibrations, not a chance. A) These M2s were made extra dense so they don't (or barely) vibrate to begin with...even playing painfully loud. To keep the M2 specs, one only need keep the internal volume the same...these are wider/taller (and heavier) due to the extra density. But, as if that wasn't enough, they have rubber feet to isolate vibrations from/to them. I could have put in the genine spikes but opted for rubber vibration isolators.
We'll see how well things isolate and adjust accordingly. There is a tremendous amount of potential SPL in the theatre and, after hearing the M2s, I intend to listen to music in there too. They are pretty spectacular. We'll see what comes up and from where. The realities are, while we watch a lot of movies, it isn't like it is going to be in use all of the time and if everyone in the house is watching the movie, who cares if it leaks some audio. I'll also have a night-time mode to cut back on the bass and cap the level. We're going to make a good-faith effort at sound control and see where we are.
There are two I-beams whose bottoms are 8-feet above the floor and they are 8-inches tall. The rear 1/3 of the room will be 1-foot above the front so that leaves about 7-feet to the ceiling in the rear.
Projection room? None. The projector will hang in unfinished space behind the theatre and project through the rear wall.
As for masking...of course. Why would I want to lower myself to commercial level? I also plan on a grand drape. The masking will likely be manual while the grand drape I hope to motorize. With both, it won't be the cost but the space for the motor.
Distance from screen to front row is about 10-feet.
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Marcel Birgelen
Film God
Posts: 3357
From: Maastricht, Limburg, Netherlands
Registered: Feb 2012
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posted 09-03-2018 01:24 AM
quote: Steve Guttag I could have put in the genine spikes but opted for rubber vibration isolators.
I prefer some good rubber pads. The higher friction will ensure your speakers remain where they are.
quote: Steve Guttag We're going to make a good-faith effort at sound control and see where we are.
In our case, we had to consider the nearby office spaces. Also, we've taken it on as a challenge, which isn't easy, since you're looking at enormous SPLs and an extremely broad frequency range. We also have a nearby train track, which produces some interesting vibrations and noises at all kinds of frequencies.
quote: Steve Guttag Projection room? None. The projector will hang in unfinished space behind the theatre and project through the rear wall.
So, that automatically makes the unfinished space the projection booth? I think it is paramount to keep the projector out of the screening room. The amount of noise and heat is otherwise difficult to get rid off.
Are you going for a full DCI system or are you settling for some non-DCI projector and playout system? I guess there are no plans to support film?
quote: Steve Guttag I also plan on a grand drape. The masking will likely be manual while the grand drape I hope to motorize. With both, it won't be the cost but the space for the motor.
We've decided not to install a drape or curtain, simply because it would become a too tight fit with our rather bulky masking system. We've got individual motorized masking for the top and bottom, the left and right share one motor as they're always symmetrical. Our screen is roughly 2:1, it maximizes the potential of the room regarding sight-lines, but I like to move scope a bit "up", so the bottom masking extends more than the top masking.
quote: Steve Guttag Distance from screen to front row is about 10-feet.
I'm really interested if it works out for you. I'd prefer to replace our screen with a woven screen too, but the weaves really need to be invisible, otherwise the picture will be more horrible than on a vinyl screen with visible perforations.
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