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Author Topic: Portable digital projector that will work at a drive-in
Justin Hamaker
Film God

Posts: 2253
From: Lakeport, CA USA
Registered: Jan 2004


 - posted 10-24-2008 11:38 PM      Profile for Justin Hamaker   Author's Homepage   Email Justin Hamaker   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
The focal length is a characteristic of your lens, like 120mm or what-have-you
I'll find out tomorrow and get back to you.

Mark, I had never heard that about using the two extension cords. Any idea how I ensure I've got different phases? Even if we didn't use this solution it would certainly be good information to know. I could foresee the possibility of maybe using a popcorn machine outside if we ever had a flee market or something.

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John Hawkinson
Film God

Posts: 2273
From: Cambridge, MA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 10-24-2008 11:52 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just measure the voltage (hot-to-hot, i.e. small prong to small prong) on the two circuits.

If the voltage is ZERO, you have the same phase.
If the voltage is 208V, you have two differenct phases.
If the voltage is 120V, you have screwed up (phase-to-ground voltage).
If the voltage is 240V, something is whacko.
if the voltage is 277V or higher, seek professional help.

If you're running 100' extension cords, you might find the voltage sags noticable (perhaps from 208 down to 200 or 190) when you actually power up the projector. That could well be a serious problem.

--jhawk

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

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From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 10-25-2008 12:09 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Justin Hamaker
Mark, I had never heard that about using the two extension cords.
It's an old welder's trick when they need to use their welder that needs 220vac in a place that hasn't the convienence of a 220v socket.

Thus, they take two long 10g cords and attach the hot to each terminal on the 220v,4 lug socket.

Tie the neutrals and grounds to their respective terminal in the socket, and on the other end of each cord, put a standard 120vac plug on it.

Then plug each cord in a socket where each socket is on a different breaker in the panel and "voila!" 220v single phase to run their welders.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 10-25-2008 09:06 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Monte L Fullmer
It's an old welder's trick when they need to use their welder that needs 220vac in a place that hasn't the convienence of a 220v socket.

Well, I may be old but I'm not a welder... I just used to do this alot for location film equipment rentals. We actually keep a setup with two extension cords made from 10/3 SO and a box with a 230 volt outlet all tied together at CLACO for location rental work. Its a heavy beast! Its pretty common in the rental world...

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Stephen Furley
Film God

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From: Coulsdon, Croydon, England
Registered: May 2002


 - posted 10-25-2008 01:04 PM      Profile for Stephen Furley   Email Stephen Furley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: John Hawkinson
Just measure the voltage (hot-to-hot, i.e. small prong to small prong) on the two circuits.

If the voltage is ZERO, you have the same phase.
If the voltage is 208V, you have two differenct phases.
If the voltage is 120V, you have screwed up (phase-to-ground voltage).
If the voltage is 240V, something is whacko.

Or it's a domestic type centre-tapped single phase supply? I suppose you'd be unlikely to have that at a drive-in, but you might elsewhere.

quote: John Hawkinson
if the voltage is 277V or higher, seek professional help.
You really like to make your electrics complicated over there, don't you! [Roll Eyes]

quote: John Hawkinson
If you're running 100' extension cords, you might find the voltage sags noticable (perhaps from 208 down to 200 or 190) when you actually power up the projector. That could well be a serious problem.

--jhawk

Could you run two cables connected in parallel to reduce the resistance, or would your regulations not allow that? I'm not sure if it would be allowed here. The way you'd do that sort of thing here would be to simply run a cable of whatever size was required, with a pin and sleeve type connector on the end of it, 3-pin blue for single phase, 5-pin red for three-phase. No question about what Voltage you need. If you don't have a suitable supply available you hire a generator which in small sizes, up to 125A, use the same type of connectors.

120, 208, 240, 277, 347, 480, 600. Wye, delta, centre grounded, corner grounded, ungrounded, dozens of different NEMA sockets... We'd have electricians jumping out of windows if they had to cope with the number of different Voltages and systems that you have over there! [Confused] [Smile]

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John Hawkinson
Film God

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From: Cambridge, MA, USA
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 - posted 10-25-2008 07:30 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It's always dangerous when you try to be comprehensive, especially for the point of injecting humor. Yes, 240V shows up in the US for a single center-tapped phase (split-phase), which is typically only for residential service.

And if you have single-phase equipment, 240V might be acceptable to the equipment (check the nameplate!), or more scarily, the voltage drop (under load, only!) might bring it down to something acceptable, which is a dangerous way to go as well.

(We have some Irem single-phase rectifiers that are running through boost transformers at around 240V where they perform much better than at 208V. Their nameplate voltage is 220V, and they have trouble producing sufficient voltage to strike 2K lamps when fed 208V...)

Running two phases from different single-phase circuits is a temporary jerry-rigging that, if permitted at all by code, qualifies as a temporary installation. You can parallel two cables as temporary installation as well, yes. Depending on what kinds of currents we're talking about and what gauges of wire, it might or might not be reasonable. (But, of course, at that rate you're probably better off just renting the higher gauge cable from a local theatrical supply house.) Several of these answers are probably only things that should be done by people with more experience than I think Justin has...

For a temporary installation, to combat voltage drop, you could also use a boost transformer. Generally this is a no-no, because then you have voltage that significantly with the load, which is not a terribly safe condition. But if your load is constant and you're aware of it, and it is a temporary installation, it is not so terrible.

--jhawk

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Stephen Furley
Film God

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From: Coulsdon, Croydon, England
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 - posted 10-26-2008 05:32 AM      Profile for Stephen Furley   Email Stephen Furley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
So, what sort of supply would you typically be asked to supply for a temporary installation for a large outdoor screen? Somebody suggested that a 6kW lamp would be appropriate; given less than unity power factor, losses and ancillary equipment I would guess that guess that you'd be looking at something like a 10-12 kVA supply. Would this generally be 208/120V three phase Wye? If so, then this is basically a half-Voltage, higher frequency version of what we have here. I would guess that you wouldn't try to send a supply very far at these Voltages, and that if you had an event any great distance from an existing supply, say in the middle of a park, then you would probably use generators.

Would the lamp rectifier be fed with 208V three phase, and everything else be 120V single phase? A 20A supply might do this, but it would be a bit tight, and I think the next size up is 30A, so I'm guessing that you'd put in 30A three phase 208/120V Wye.

How would you terminate the temporary supply at the remote end, would it be hard wired into a distribution panel, or plugged in?

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Ben Wales
Jedi Master Film Handler

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From: Southampton. England
Registered: Jul 99


 - posted 10-26-2008 07:23 AM      Profile for Ben Wales   Email Ben Wales   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
You can also run two extension cords connected to two different circuits on different phases and have 230 volts just as easily.
That sort of run and the Voltage/Amps required for a good size Digital Projector, I would advise hire in a Generator, far more reliable than local 2 phase power.

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Alan Gouger
Jedi Master Film Handler

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From: Bradenton, FL, USA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 10-26-2008 09:11 AM      Profile for Alan Gouger   Author's Homepage   Email Alan Gouger   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Using a Navitar telephoto screenstar lens in front of the projectors primary may give you the throw you need. These are high quality lens that do not degrade the image.
http://presentation.navitar.com/pages/product_information/screenstar_projection_conversion_lenses/overview.cfm

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Frank Angel
Film God

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From: Brooklyn NY USA
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 - posted 10-26-2008 10:20 PM      Profile for Frank Angel   Author's Homepage   Email Frank Angel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It might be easier to just stack smaller units to get your brightness rather than looking at super projectors that probably will be more costly to rent and more difficult to power. Stacking is routinely done and you rental houses have hardware that makes stacking fairly foolproof. This might be a better way to go.

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Barry Floyd
Phenomenal Film Handler

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From: Lebanon, Tennessee, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 11-18-2008 12:16 PM      Profile for Barry Floyd   Author's Homepage   Email Barry Floyd   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Justin,
We did a similar thing at my drive-in about 2 years ago. I had a guy call me who wanted to propose to his girlfriend and put a video on screen of their dating relationship, well wishes from friends and family, etc.. He was a film student at Watkins Film School in Nashville, and he told me he had a video projector that he could use as long as I had an extension cord.

When I met him out at the theatre one night after work, and he pulled out this little conference room table video projector, about the size of a small VCR. I was thinking to myself ... NO Way was this going to work as we were standing 275 feet away from the screen. He plugged it in and I must honestly say... I was AMAZED. It actually worked. Albeit, the mismatched lens made the picture about twice the size of the screen, and the picture was a little dark... but with about twice as much light and the right lens... it definetely had potential for something. (Advertising slides, private rentals, etc.) I anticipated the guy would leave the theatre with his "bubble burst" because his little dinky projector would be the equivalent of shining a flashlight on the screen from the back row.

He played part of his tape, and I walked up to the bottom of the screen expecting to see pixels the size of basketballs.... it was perfect.

This wasn't some fancy digital cinema thing, this was an ordinary business-style conference room table video projector.
I believe the name brand was "In-Focus", and the model number was the "Screenplay 5000"

We pulled 2 100 foot extension cords from the ticket booth and ran the projector from the roof of his car. Instead of the projector being back at the building, it was probably only 100 feet from the screen.

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Justin Hamaker
Film God

Posts: 2253
From: Lakeport, CA USA
Registered: Jan 2004


 - posted 11-18-2008 07:51 PM      Profile for Justin Hamaker   Author's Homepage   Email Justin Hamaker   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks everyone for the input. I'll have to remember the extension cord trick for future reference.

The people wound up having their film transfered to 35mm and we just ran it through the projector. But the digital information is good to know in case it comes up again.

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