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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Digital Cinema Forum   » Barco DP2K-32B lamp house stuck? (Page 2)

 
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Author Topic: Barco DP2K-32B lamp house stuck?
Marco Giustini
Film God

Posts: 2713
From: Reading, UK
Registered: Nov 2007


 - posted 05-03-2016 05:21 AM      Profile for Marco Giustini   Email Marco Giustini   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I believe the gap between nuts and connector is specified in the Barco user manual. As long as there is some gap to allow the connector to move, that's fine.

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Dave Macaulay
Film God

Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001


 - posted 05-03-2016 07:42 AM      Profile for Dave Macaulay   Email Dave Macaulay   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Tight is no good, agreed. The newer solid posts should have an unthreaded section. If set with them tight to the insulator, you need a thin "bicycle" wrench to get on the inner nut so few people would do that... you need enough room to get a standard wrench on it.
The SPG connector sometimes doesn't line up well... I think Barco should have allowed some movement in the SPG so you could align it then screw it down tight... the locating pins don't allow that.
With the nuts further out on the threads, the slidehammer action will jerk the connector free (usually).
You should inspect the connector sockets and pins when the lamphouse is out. There are at least two socket types, both can show some arc damage and still be OK.
Some dielectric grease on the pins will help keep them unstuck and not interfere with connection. I would hesitate to use normal grease - overheat it and it turns to gluey tar (plus it can burn).

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Jack Ondracek
Film God

Posts: 2348
From: Port Orchard, WA, USA
Registered: Oct 2002


 - posted 05-03-2016 09:31 AM      Profile for Jack Ondracek   Author's Homepage   Email Jack Ondracek   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I had that happen last year. Brute force, at least as much as I was willing to put on a new projector, didn't help at all. I'm working from memory here, but I recall something like 3 or 4 screws that hold the "ignitor" in place. Taking those off and loosening up the assembly did the trick for me.

Grease? Huh. Have to look into that. Seems like a curious fix.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 05-04-2016 02:15 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Lot of techs recommending adding a light film of dielectric grease to these connections so the fittings don't seize, esp with these big, "B" series modules.

Maybe, one workaround would be to cut the anode braided cable close to the burnt end with bolt cutters, pull the module out enough to undo the four quarter turn captive screws so the front heat filter piece can be released from the module frame.

As pulling out the module, one hold up the cut anode cable to keep bulb level as possible while the module is being pulled.

When module is fully out of the unit, then one can remove bulb.

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Andrew Thomas
Master Film Handler

Posts: 273
From: Pearland, TX, USA
Registered: Jun 2012


 - posted 05-05-2016 03:29 PM      Profile for Andrew Thomas   Email Andrew Thomas   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Brad Miller was great and had one of his guys who was finishing a big install elsewhere in Houston come out and get it taken care of. Ended up replacing the SPG and anode connector, and switched to Ushio lamps from the cheap no-name stuff the previous owners used.

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Buck Wilson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 894
From: St. Joseph MO, USA
Registered: Sep 2010


 - posted 05-05-2016 03:47 PM      Profile for Buck Wilson   Email Buck Wilson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
How cool is that!! [beer]

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 05-05-2016 04:35 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Congrats on the accomplishment [thumbsup]

Wonder what cheap bulbs were used ...

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Andrew Thomas
Master Film Handler

Posts: 273
From: Pearland, TX, USA
Registered: Jun 2012


 - posted 05-06-2016 07:26 PM      Profile for Andrew Thomas   Email Andrew Thomas   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
PlusRite bulbs. Even going from 6.5kw to 6kw, the Ushio is putting more light on screen than the PlusRites, and the random flicker that we would get from time to time (even early in the life of the bulb!) is gone. Way more stable!

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Jason Raftery
Film Handler

Posts: 72
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Registered: May 2011


 - posted 05-06-2016 08:10 PM      Profile for Jason Raftery   Email Jason Raftery   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Phil Ranucci
What grease do you use?
Metalon Hi-Tech EP 1.5

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-06-2016 09:22 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Even going from 6.5kw to 6kw, the Ushio is putting more light on screen than the PlusRites, and the random flicker that we would get from time to time (even early in the life of the bulb!) is gone. Way more stable!
That's why price is not as important as cost per hour when looking at bulbs. At the end of the day the Ushio is cheaper to operate than another brand of bulb. Just do the math on the cost of that PlusRite you were using divided by their 550 warranty hours vs. the cost of the Ushio we recommended divided by their 800 warranty hours and it becomes a no-brainer. On top of it all, the Ushio is using less electricity and is a better quality of light too.

Remember kids, it's not the price that matters, it's what it costs you. [Wink]

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Martin Murray
Film Handler

Posts: 69
From: ennis tx
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 05-07-2016 01:45 AM      Profile for Martin Murray   Email Martin Murray   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Your results may vary. I run 6.5k Plusrights 14-1600 hours with no problems. The damage seen in the pictures above came from an improperly tightened connection, not a bad bulb. Don't blame the manufacturer when the installer is at fault. The flicker you describe probably came from the loose connection. As far as the lower light level, my guess would be improper lamp alignment, assuming the same person that failed to tighten the lead is the one that aligned it.

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Marco Giustini
Film God

Posts: 2713
From: Reading, UK
Registered: Nov 2007


 - posted 05-07-2016 04:17 AM      Profile for Marco Giustini   Email Marco Giustini   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Many, many MANY people won't align the lamp at all when replacing it... [Frown]

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Buck Wilson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 894
From: St. Joseph MO, USA
Registered: Sep 2010


 - posted 05-07-2016 05:54 AM      Profile for Buck Wilson   Email Buck Wilson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Martin, no one said the cheap bulb caused the burn up of the terminal.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-07-2016 12:11 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Martin, on what machine do you run them?

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Martin Murray
Film Handler

Posts: 69
From: ennis tx
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 05-08-2016 01:04 AM      Profile for Martin Murray   Email Martin Murray   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Christie cp2000, 2230
Barco 19b, 20c, 23b, 32b, dp1500, dp2000, dp3000
NEC 1600c, 2000c, 2500c, 3200s
I have them running in all of these and have been through 100's of them now with great results.

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