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Topic: BARCO LINK DECRYPTOR MODULE

System Notices
Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi

Posts: 215

Registered: Apr 2004

posted 10-19-2019 08:46 AM

It has been 717 days since the last post.

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Carsten Kurz
Film God

Posts: 4340
From: Cologne, NRW, Germany
Registered: Aug 2009

posted 10-19-2019 08:46 AM

With regard to keeping an LD/Enigma board alive:

So, it's 12 volts for the HDSI board, and 5 volts for the Enigma/LD board itself?

Did anyone ever test out the 3pin J3 header? They are labeled 1-3, but I can't find which is which. It's probably easiest to test the voltage while it's powered by the HD-SDI or PIB board?

https://csrc.nist.rip/groups/STM/cmvp/documents/140-1/140sp/140sp1356.pdf
https://www.cryptsoft.com/fips140/vendors/140sp1356.pdf

- Carsten

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Dave Macaulay
Film God

Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 10-26-2019 09:00 AM

Again: you can not diagnose an Enigma board without installing it in a projector. Barco puts them on the SDI input card: remove that card with static safe handling. Undo the screws holding the module down, usually Torx screws (why, Barco?). Swap modules, make sure it seats fully on the connector blocks. Screws not required for a test. Install board, power up, and see what errors you get. Security errors are OK, you should not see LD not found or LD fail errors. You can authorize with the Dallas key (or button with smaller projectors) and password, and test that it plays content - any content but a full test requires playing something encrypted with a valid KDM.
If the board is dead (battery was allowed to discharge too much) ... I do not know of any way to revive it. Barco says a new one is required. Yes they are expensive. You can open the finned case to see what's inside: there are cover tamper switches in there that will kill a good module but if yours is dead that doesn't much matter. Not much to see but have a look if you're curious.

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Carsten Kurz
Film God

Posts: 4340
From: Cologne, NRW, Germany
Registered: Aug 2009

posted 10-26-2019 10:58 AM

Sorry, my question was after pinout and proper voltage of the J3 connector in order to build a simple recharger.

- Carsten

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Marcel Birgelen
Film God

Posts: 3357
From: Maastricht, Limburg, Netherlands
Registered: Feb 2012

posted 10-26-2019 12:42 PM

There really is no standard in such connectors, so the safest way would be to measure across them, in the hope that they're directly connected to the 12V and 5V bus and don't have any other switching in between them.

The only question is how you're going to measure them while in operation, but I guess you could put a lead on them and find some hole outward. Just make sure there is a connector at the other side too, not some loose wires that are easily shorted.

I guess you know the drill how to measure this kind of stuff, but just in case:

If you read ~12V you know one of them has to be +12V and the other ground. If you read ~5V, one of them has to be +5V and the other one ground. If you read ~7V, one of them is +12V and the other one +5V. That way you can easily find out what is what.

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 10-26-2019 01:14 PM

quote: Dave Macaulay
...usually Torx screws (why, Barco?)...

Because if you try to undo a Philips that has been done up by a power tool manually and using the wrong Philips head, a high risk exists of stripping the head such that the screw ain't never coming out again (and if it has a countersunk head, you're really buggered, because you can't even brutalize it out with pliers). I've lost countless hours dealing with the consequences of that (the screws holding the hard drives in their cartridges in DSS200s being a prime example).

Barco have gone completely to Torx fasteners in the SP4K, and IMHO, that was a good decision. OK, you've got to remember to carry a T10, T15 and T20 head around in your toolbag, but personally, I feel that this is a small price to pay to do away with the stripped Philips head menace.

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Stephan Shelley
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 854
From: castro valley, CA, usa
Registered: Nov 2014

posted 10-26-2019 01:41 PM

The Boxer tool sets are very handy and reasonably priced. The S-39M
set has the metric hex and torx bits Some metric sockets as well. You can get a third party extender for that long reach stuff.

http://www.boxertool.com/displayhandtools.htm

The S-39M is the last at the bottom. They also have a similar set with the security bits too.

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Carsten Kurz
Film God

Posts: 4340
From: Cologne, NRW, Germany
Registered: Aug 2009

posted 10-26-2019 01:42 PM

As far as I know, some 'Enigma chargers' do not connect directly to the enigma board, but through an 'open' HDSDI or PIP board. So, it should be possible to measure the voltage/pinout while the Enigma is charged through it's 'mainboard'.

- Carsten

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Marcel Birgelen
Film God

Posts: 3357
From: Maastricht, Limburg, Netherlands
Registered: Feb 2012

posted 10-26-2019 01:43 PM

quote: Leo Enticknap
Because if you try to undo a Philips that has been done up by a power tool manually and using the wrong Philips head, a high risk exists of stripping the head such that the screw ain't never coming out again (and if it has a countersunk head, you're really buggered, because you can't even brutalize it out with pliers). I've lost countless hours dealing with the consequences of that (the screws holding the hard drives in their cartridges in DSS200s being a prime example).

I've come to like torx screws too, because indeed, the wrong head and/or too much force with a powertool will strip those philips heads so much, it's often almost impossible to get them out. Also, once you've got them out, you really want to replace them with new ones, or else the next time you'll need to get them out will be even more "fun".

Like Leo, I've also spent too many hours on getting those kinds of crews out, including drilling them out. It's become like a plague, especially with all those low quality, unhardened China-made screws those days.

quote: Carsten Kurz
As far as I know, some 'Enigma chargers' do not connect directly to the enigma board, but through an 'open' HDSDI or PIP board. So, it should be possible to measure the voltage/pinout while the Enigma is charged through it's 'mainboard'.

The USL EP-100 connected to the HD-SDI board. But I don't think it's sufficient to just power that board, you also need to do a little magic to boot that board, in order for it to power the enigma board.

The USL solution also faked the input of the service doors, in order to keep the marriage. If that's not required, but you simply want to keep the keys within the enigma, I guess simply powering J3 with the appropriate input voltages should be sufficient.

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Carsten Kurz
Film God

Posts: 4340
From: Cologne, NRW, Germany
Registered: Aug 2009

posted 10-26-2019 02:35 PM

quote: Marcel Birgelen
I guess simply powering J3 with the appropriate input voltages should be sufficient.

Well, 'appropriate input voltages' is what I'm after..

There is some FIPS documentation on different versions of Enigma boards available on the net, but while they mention the J3 connector for power, they don't offer any insight into pinout or voltage. Also, the board itself has no indications.

- Carsten

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Frank Cox
Film God

Posts: 2234
From: Melville Saskatchewan Canada
Registered: Apr 2011

posted 10-26-2019 02:41 PM

I've never understood why the rest of the world doesn't use Robertson screws. Outside of drywall screws, Robertson heads are pretty much all you see in the hardware stores and lumberyards around here, and there's a good reason for that.

They don't slip, they're self centering, and they're hard (but not impossible) to strip so they're great for driving with a drill or power screwdriver. And you can easily drive them with one hand, too.

And nobody outside of Canada has ever heard of them...

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Marcel Birgelen
Film God

Posts: 3357
From: Maastricht, Limburg, Netherlands
Registered: Feb 2012

posted 10-26-2019 03:37 PM

Actually, you'll find Robertson screws, often marketed as "Quick Screws" over here too. I even have used them from time to time. I like the self-tapping ones, which really work well in combination with power tools. For all other applications, I think torx is equally fine and it's easier to find torx bit sets and other torx tools than Robertson/Quick Screw tools.

quote: Carsten Kurz
Well, 'appropriate input voltages' is what I'm after..

There is some FIPS documentation on different versions of Enigma boards available on the net, but while they mention the J3 connector for power, they don't offer any insight into pinout or voltage. Also, the board itself has no indications.

That's why you should try to measure over it while it's powered. [Wink]

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999

posted 10-26-2019 04:49 PM

Truth be told, the Barco screws (as used on the Enigma) are slotted/torx so you can use a ¼" straight blade driver to turn them.

I'm fine with Torx and have no love affair for Philips. Dolby tried by using Pozi-drive screws in lieu of Philips and I'm sure most people here didn't even realize that nor have Pozi-drive drivers. Pozi-drive screws can be recognized by their little mini-cross in addition to what looks like a regular Phillips. They too don't cam-out like a standard Phillips.

Had Robertson been introduced here, I'm sure I'd be okay with them. One nice thing about a 6-pointed screw like the Torx is one is less drawn to screws that don't match orientation (think wall plates with slotted screws where a sloppy installer has them all akimbo).

Back on topic, the Charger port on the Enigma is definitely for 5VDC. I'll check to see the polarity when I am next near a cable made to use it (we have them). That said, I've taken to charging our spare Enigmas with the now obsolete USL EP100. I apparently described this back about 2-years ago.

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Carsten Kurz
Film God

Posts: 4340
From: Cologne, NRW, Germany
Registered: Aug 2009

posted 10-26-2019 04:55 PM

There is something here:

http://www.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/ubb/f16/t002139/p2.html

But I am not sure wether the pinout mentioned 'pin 1/3' is actually towards an enigma board (because the discussion is started around GORE boards/series 1).

Recently, there seems to be an increased need for enigma chargers, as it seems, some IMB installations demand the enigma board to be taken out of the projector. Instead of trashing them, owners would like to keep them charged. But the USL solution needs an HD-SDI board, and is no longer available, while the Barco solution is very expensive (is it still available at all?).

- Carsten

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Marcel Birgelen
Film God

Posts: 3357
From: Maastricht, Limburg, Netherlands
Registered: Feb 2012

posted 10-26-2019 05:31 PM

A polarized header makes sense for a power connector. Also, a 3pin header of which only 2 are used isn't anything special.

It also makes sense to put your +5V on pin 1 and the ground on pin 3.

The lack of any indicators on the enigma boards itself doesn't inspire much confidence though, since you never know if your charger is working or not.

At least with the HD-SDI card you have a bunch of LEDs that give you some kind of basic status information.

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