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Topic: Anybody get the extended warranty from Barco?

Dave Macaulay
Film God

Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 02-05-2018 07:04 PM

Sorry that is wrong. It might work but using the Barco cooling kit is easier and gets rid of almost all the old coolant.
The kit has the two hoses and a bicycle pump plus an adapter for the reservoir to the pump. (You also get a set of hoses and connectors for series 1 projectors - they also use the large syringe - and instructions for cooling system service covering all liquid cooled Barcos plus - I think - one 1l bottle of coolant). I recommend getting the kit, making a reservoir pressurizing adapter is going to be difficult.
Procedure:
Remove the reservoir lid and put on the adapter, then screw the pump hose onto that.
Undo the coupling between the radiator and the light engine and attach one of the kit hoses to one free end, the hose should go into an empty jug unless you want a big mess. Then pump the pump until all coolant is expelled and air blows out. Remove that hose, connect the other one to the other projector hose free end, repeat the pumping step.
Reconnect the projector hose connectors.
Fill the reservoir. Put the lid on loosely (coolant can splash our in the next steps).
As service tech, activate "refill mode" in installation/advanced.
After a few seconds look in the reservoir, liquid level should be much lower and bubbling/roiling. If full and still, you have to prime the pump... stop refill mode, hook up a drain hose to the line coming from the radiator, and wait until coolant starts to flow then disconnect. Reconnect the projector hoses together and go back to refill mode.
When the level drops, top it up to around the 500ml line.
Leave in refill mode for 10 minutes to drive as much air out as possible. Refill mode just runs the cooling system (pump and fans) as if the lamp was on.
Exit refill mode. Check level and top up if needed. Should be around 500ml, not over the MAX mark.
Dispose of used coolant according to local regulations.

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 02-05-2018 09:43 PM

Any method will work as long as (a) it removes all the old coolant, (b) refills without getting air bubbles anywhere in the circuit, and (c) avoids spilling coolant anywhere sensitive (especially near the light engine).

The way I described is pretty quick and easy on a B series projector (which Barry has). On a C series projector it isn't, because the reservoir is behind the integrator rod, meaning that in order to get it out, you'll need to remove the light engine assembly from the projector first. If you're not prepared to do that, then the official method, using the Barco pressure cap on the reservoir as you describe, is the only viable way.

If you have to replace a pump on a C series machine, the light engine has to come out. I can't see any way around that without risking coolant spraying into it at some point in the process. Again, the B series design makes that job a lot easier, with the pump and the radiator in a little tray that just slides out from the main chassis, without the light engine in the way.

Regardless of how the coolant change is done, I'd always want to run the pump, with the lamp on, and monitor the light engine temperatures for at least a quarter of an hour or so, after the job is complete, to be absolutely sure that there are no residual air bubbles, or leaks, that could risk the light engine overheating.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999

posted 02-05-2018 11:39 PM

Leo,

Dave is spot on here. Pulling the reservoir to dump it is just plain nuts and time consuming.

As for the connectors, they are actually easily obtainable domestically. They are made by CPC:

Female: NS4D17004
Male: NS4D42004

Note, these are used on ALL series 2 DLP (Christie and NEC included). Series 1 also used CPC connectors BUT they are a different (and non compatible) model (PLC models). Make sure to use tubing that is safe the antifreeze products.

By and large, you can just put a drain hose on the system and let it drain out. I was in a certification class that the instructor even said to not bother putting the pump on the reservoir to get every last drop out. You can made that cap by getting the same size cap, drilling a hole in it and inserting a Schrader Valve for a bicycle pump.

I've found that, after draining, remove the drain hose and don't reconnect to the radiator...fill the system up and then re-couple the hoses and let gravity help prime the pump for a few minutes. Put the projector in refill mode to expel all air bubbles and top off and continue to let run for a couple of cycles to ensure all air bubbles are expelled take it out of refill mode and put the cap back on securly.

During all of the above, be busy about getting the rest of the projector clean.

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000

posted 02-07-2018 07:46 AM

quote: Steve Guttag
Make sure to use tubing that is safe the antifreeze products.

And UV resistant, if replacing any sections in the projector (never had to do this with a Series 2 machine, but several times with Series 1).

Thanks for those part numbers. Barco charges $92 for a set, so any potentially cheaper source is good to know about. I wouldn't use non-Barco sourced parts on a projector that is still under warranty, but for one that isn't, paying $92 for a component that can't cost more than $5 to make is not something you want to do if you don't have to.

Pulling the reservoir is something I do because in many cases, it has accumulated deposits on the inside surface, and I don't want crystallized particles of old coolant finding their way into the circuit and impeding the flow. Cleaning out the interior of the reservoir is not something that can safely be done with it installed.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999

posted 02-07-2018 12:03 PM

If you are worried about deposits, may I suggest getting a pump siphon? We used them back in the film days to drain a projector of oil in seconds. The nice thing is, the liquid remains in the tank for proper disposal. I'd have to look up the model we used but it is about 2-feet tall and one just routes the tubing up to what is to be removed. It is actually pretty slick and fast. The tube is big enough to pull up whatever crud is in the reservoir.

As for the couplings, they are not $4.00 (closer to $20-25) but definitely less than getting them from Barco. Grainger happens to have them at one of the lower prices.

Heads up, if you end up changing the cooling pump as part of a "D" maintenance, on a "B" series Barco, there isn't really any extra slack in that tubing! So be prepared. Cut no more off than you need to. On a "C" series, there is plenty of extra tubing to handle the pump change.

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