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Author Topic: Barco lamp alignment issue Dave Macaulay Film God Posts: 2321 From: Toronto, Canada Registered: Apr 2001 posted 01-09-2019 10:33 AM                     "its showing better results.. when i loose the nuts" Can you explain this better? What nuts?  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 01-09-2019 06:26 PM                     Plus, that 5mm allen setscrew on the cathode adapter, the screw has to be metal tight on the collar of the bulb after the bulb is securely screwed in tight on the adapter. That is what is making solid contact for the DC current to the bulb, not the brass adapter. If that screw isn't snug down tight enough, that whole back end assembly could over heat and the brass castle nut will seize the adapter making a total replacement of the back end of the module-let alone burning up the cathode cable from the LPS since DC current runs from cathode to anode. little help there.  |  IP: Logged Dave Macaulay Film God Posts: 2321 From: Toronto, Canada Registered: Apr 2001 posted 01-09-2019 08:36 PM                     "metal tight"? The screw should be fairly tight (2.5Nm/22in-lb spec for all C projectors, 5Nm/44in-lb for B models) but over-tightening them can break the adapter (there is not much metal around the threaded hole especially on C adapters).  |  IP: Logged Marco Giustini Film God Posts: 2713 From: Reading, UK Registered: Nov 2007 posted 01-10-2019 04:47 AM                     From the installation manual. Please make sure the lamp is fully seated on the socket. The pin should end up in a slot. You can see the socket through the metal mesh on the side of the lamphouse.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 01-10-2019 07:25 AM                     No Monte, you are wrong. The bulk of the current flow should be through the threads. You have WAY more contact area there. The screw does two things. The obvious one is that it secures the adapter to the lamp so it can't back off. The other function is probably what sets up the confusion, it will force the adapter to push tight (on the threads) to the lamp and use that contact area. For the non-threaded adapter, it is the same. That is, the screw holds the adapter on and also forces the adapter to have a tight connection to the pin of the lamp. In the bigger projectors (DPxK-32B) do you really think that small set screw is what is carrying the bulk of the current? Why an adapter can weld on if the screw is loose is because the adapter is now loose to the treads/pin and that is where it will start arcing.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 01-11-2019 01:47 PM                     ...what our tech told us that the allen setscrew was the main so to hold the threads together in contact with cathode and adapter. Granted, the 5mm end screw .. just barely a sinch tight, or you'll break the end off of the adapter being just brass-we learned that one the hard way oh well ... - Monte  |  IP: Logged Pratheesh Chandran Film Handler Posts: 8 From: India Registered: Dec 2018 posted 01-12-2019 02:06 AM                        thank u all... any other option for focusing screen manually in BARCO ( tried focus adjustment switch in the projector)..seems some focusing problems .. pic seems out of focus in some areas..any Other option ??  |  IP: Logged Marco Giustini Film God Posts: 2713 From: Reading, UK Registered: Nov 2007 posted 01-12-2019 06:21 AM                     Pratheesh, you'll likely need to perform the "scheimpflug" adjustment. However, may I recommend that you hire a qualified engineer for this procedure - and to help with the lamphouse?  |  IP: Logged

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