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This topic comprises 3 pages: 1 2 3
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Author
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Topic: Service tools
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William Hooper
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1879
From: Mobile, AL USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-21-2001 02:48 AM
quote: Actually it would be good for the industry if a low cost light meter was available so the theatres would own one.
Roger that. I've brought up screen brightness several times to managers & tech folks who were honestly interested, and the routine is always: "How do you check it?" "With a meter." "Well, how much does one cost?" "About two thousand dollars." "TWO THOUSAND DOLLARS!" Interest ends like shutting off a switch.
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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 06-21-2001 10:03 AM
I've been developing an idea of a way to measure screen luminance, uniformity and color temperature using a manually adjustable single lens reflex 35mm camera. It uses a well-established technique called "photographic photometry". Natural daylight provides a very repeatable source of light. When the sun is at a given height above the horizon (say 45-degrees elevation) on a clear blue-sky day, the intensity and color temperature of daylight is very constant and repeatable, and able to serve as a standard. Say that under those conditions, you would have 5500K (actually D-5500) color temperature and an illuminance of 8000 footcandles. If you took a photograph of a 100% white sheet of paper illuminated by daylight using Kodak ELITE CHROME 100 reversal film, and used a camera exposure that gave a midscale gray on the processed film, you would have a standard representing 8000 footlamberts at D-5500. If you now photographed movie screens with a camera exposure 9 stops greater on the same roll of film, the image of the screens lit to 16 footlamberts and D-5500 should match the "standard" daylight exposure. (i.e., one stop differences in exposure are 8000, 4000, 2000, 1000, 500, 250, 125, 64, 32, 16, giving 9 stops between 8000 and 16). So, you could expose one "standard" daylight exposure on a roll of color slide film, then photograph each of the screens in a multiplex theatre onto the same roll of film, with 9 stops more exposure than was used for the 8000 footlambert daylight "standard". After processing the reversal film, the daylight exposure would serve as a reference, and the picture of each screen could be compared to it to see if it was darker or lighter, or significantly different in color. You could quantify the luminance, uniformity and color of over 20 screens for the cost of a roll of Kodak ELITE CHROME 100 slide film and processing -- maybe about US $0.50 (50 cents) per screen. As an example, with Kodak ELITE CHROME 100 film, using an exposure of 1/500 second, f/16 would produce a midscale gray when photographing a 100% white card directly illuminated by natural daylight. Photographing a properly lit screen with an exposure of 1/15 second at f/4 (9 stops more exposure) on the same piece of film should produce an image that matches for density and color. Is this idea worth developing into a procedure? How many would have the SLR camera and photographic ability to use such a method? Your comments and suggestions are welcome. ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Eastman Kodak Company Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 06-21-2001 10:36 AM
Jerry - the 1/15 second exposure for the screen may be long enough, but I agree something longer would be less likely to capture a partial opening of the projector shutter. Maybe 1/4 second would be long enough, and still not need a tripod for the camera. Or leave the f/stop at f/16, and use 1/500 second vs. 1 second to get the 9 stop differential.Tough to maintain a portable light standard. To do it right would probably cost as much as a good meter. Dichroic mirrors vary considerably, and will change as the coatings wear. ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Eastman Kodak Company Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
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Evans A Criswell
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1579
From: Huntsville, AL, USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-21-2001 10:49 AM
Can't you make a cheap light meter quite easily as follows?Take a Velveeta cheese box (or similar-shaped box that is rather long and narrow. Put a flashlight bulb in one end of the box and wire it to the proper voltage battery. Take a paper hole punch and punch a row of holes in the middle of a side, going from one side to the other. Cover the front of the box (and the holes) with a sheet of paper cut to fit. It would look something like this (It's rough, but I drew it very quickly): Calibrating the device is an issue. The way I did it when I built one of these as part of a science project in spring of 1982 (8th grade) was through the use of a light source of a known intensity and the inverse square law. Get a lamp and take the shade off and put in a 100 watt standard light bulb (the kind that puts out 1750 lumens). Go outside with it and find a place where reflections from the bulb from anything are negligible (at night, of course). For each hole, the light inside the box will shine through the holes through the paper covering the front. The intensity will be greatest for holes near the bulb and lesser for holes at the far end of the box. Hold the box with its face pointed straight at the 100W light bulb and for each hole, find the distance from the 100W light bulb where the intensity of the hole is the same of the surrouding paper. Based on the distance from the bulb, calculate the foot-candles by dividing 1750 by (4 * pi), then dividing by the distance, in feet, from the bulb, squared). For example, for a particular hole, if the proper distance is 10 feet from the bulb, then the foot-candle value for that hole is about 1.4. 4 feet from the bulb, the value would be about 8.7. I built one of these long ago and you could measure luminous intensity by placing the meter and checking to see how many holes through which the light source was visible from in the box, and the point at which it was the reading. You write the values underneath the holes. I forget where I saw the description of the construction of this simple meter. It was in an old book that is probably much older than I am, but it was a fun little thing to build. Could something like it be used to measure foot-lamberts? It's cheesy (literally), but can be built for practically nothing. ------------------ Evans A Criswell Huntsville-Decatur Movie Theatre Info Site
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William Hooper
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1879
From: Mobile, AL USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-25-2001 05:45 AM
quote: People know better than to take my tools. If they do they are likely to end up with a screwdriver sticking out of their eye socket
You're supposed to use a socket wrench for that. As long as toolboxes are being examined, the next question would likely be "What is the most strange & unlikely tool in your tool box?" I've got a short-handled 5 pound sledge (I forgot what I needed it for). It has a factory label on the side which identifies it as an "Engineering Hammer". It is useful when problems require extensive engineering.
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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 06-25-2001 10:55 AM
William Hooper said: ""Clear blue sky" is not a regular, reliable occurrence in the spring, summer & fall in southern coastal areas."Likewise, winter in Rochester has few days when you can even see the sun, and there are only a few minutes that it is more than 45 degrees above the horizon. But finding a "standard" illuminant is difficult. For example, the light output of a tungsten lamp varies significantly as the voltage is changed. Another way of using "photographic photometry" would be to photograph a "standard" screen known to have exactly 16 footlamberts, and then compare the photos of other screens taken on the same roll of slide film with exactly the same exposure. IMHO, the BEST OPTION is to buy that $2000 screen luminance meter, and share it among theatres. If the meter is used to maintain proper screen luminance on 100 screens, the cost is only $20 per screen. And with proper care, the meter should last indefinitely. ------------------ John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging Eastman Kodak Company Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419 Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243 E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 06-26-2001 03:21 PM
As an Aircraft Mechanic, Machinist and Projectionist, I already added my bit(in the film-handler's forum) about quality tools. And y'all mentioned some that I did not. Personally, I used a light meter EVERY time I changed a bulb. I also tried to check the focus on at least 10 bulbs every week depending on when I closed. Remember that under focusing the bulb can result in a crappy picture, and overfocusing may result in overheating the gate/trap, film, lens, reflector/mirror - the result being damage! Some people are quite good and can get 16f.l w/o using a meter. Also, if the screen, audience and projector are not in alignment, it may be very difficult to achieve even screen lighting at 16f.l. But those meters are very expensive-and take care of them because they can be just as expensive to service!
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