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This topic comprises 2 pages: 1 2
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Author
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Topic: Painting a Screen
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John Walsh
Film God
Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999
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posted 12-16-2001 12:05 AM
To replace a screen, you have a pole on a dolly. The pole is high enough to reach the top of the screen. You put a cardboard tube on the pole which is the same height of the screen. The bottom of the tube is held at the same height as the bottom of the screen. You unhook one side of the screen, and start to roll it onto the tube, unhooking the laces (or springs) as you go, rolling the dolly across. When done, the pole is tipped down, and the full roll is slid off of the pole, the new screen is slid on and the procedure is reversed.The dolly has big outriggers on three sides to keep stable. There is an art to lacing a new screen evenly, so I don't suggest you do it yourself. If you do, don't lace- buy the springs people are using now which simply hook to the frame and screen grommets. It's very important the screen size matches the frame; usually the company that supplied the orginal screen keeps records of the size. Clear 1/4" Plexiglass is not a bad replacement for port windows if low cost is required. In another topic, it was discussed that some towers would not fit "Harry Potter" (150 mins) so if you usually run long films, (11 full reels would be 220 mins!) check before buying. Also, if I remember, it took about 15 mins just to rewind.
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Gerard S. Cohen
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 975
From: Forest Hills, NY, USA
Registered: Sep 2001
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posted 12-16-2001 10:03 PM
There is often a strip bearing the manufacturer's name, model and
exact dimensions on the edge of the old screen, which saves the awkward chore of trying to measure the size you need.Though I've cut porthole glass from thin window glass for expediency
and economy, when funds are available, it's best to have a glazier
measure and cut a piece of water-clear optical glass, and sand and bevel the edges and corners for safety and convenience in removing it
for cleaning. When you look through the edge of the glass, if it's dark green, it will not transmit as much light as water-clear glass, and optical quality insures flatness to prevent distortion of the
image.
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John Pytlak
Film God
Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 12-17-2001 01:48 PM
John Walsh said: "Clear 1/4" Plexiglass is not a bad replacement for port windows if low cost is required"I beg to disagree. Plexiglass tends to cause lots of flare in the image, due to internal light-piping. As Gerard notes, water-clear optical glass should be used, ideally having an anti-reflection optical coating. Don't be a CONTRAST KILLER!:
http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/newsletters/reel/december99/pytlak.shtml ------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
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Paul Cassidy
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 549
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 12-18-2001 01:00 AM
I wish it were my theatre then it would not in such a condition ,Automated projection ,just push a button from the Candy Bar you would have the best of both worlds ,contact with your customers and be able to control the viewing conditions from the auditorium ,focus, masking ,sound but I'd better Wake up now, but in reality the things we have been talking about are just normal house keeping in a theatre, if you were a customer would I come to this cinema ,the thing that I was fussy about was the first impression ,you need the pop corn fresh and smelling Yuuuumy is the place clean & tidy are my staff well presented and friendly , are all the lights working and on ,is the auditorium clean with all lights working and on, the non-sync suited to the movie playing "Muriel's Wedding" I had Abba music playing ,but the nost important is the presentation,is it the BEST it could be .
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Paul Cassidy
Jedi Master Film Handler
Posts: 549
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 12-21-2001 04:02 PM
I think if any work in painting the screen would only be Temp as the improvement would be very short term considering the age of the screen in question ( it's been up since the early 70s)and has more than paid it's way and deserves to be retired ,I guess the question here is (as mentioned earlier) priority of management or in this case lack of management ,as I remember this cinema in the early days it was the grandest Suburban Theatre in Auckland ,waterfall Curtain with coloured lights around it's arched proscenium ,lighting trough along both sides meeting at the roof ,big round Red glowing domes along the wall and on the ceiling a huge onclave with coloured lights , at this time all the lighting consists of is Red neon in the side troughs and the fading red Domes on the walls and he doesn't even drop the water fall (I do when I run sessions) but it doesn't have a auto shut off so you have to careful to stop it manually, for this theatre you need a real show man at the helm, I'll tell you the public have told they want improved first , the seats (too hard) to be kept tidy ,stero (surround) sound and good presentation ,then all the features of the cinema restored ,most of all a cinema experience they can't get in the New complexs ,the ability to get your food and drinks sit and take in the ambience of the place listen to the non-sync music and then the light show as it builds to the start of the Feature (the old projectionist insist that no white of the screen should be seen before the start of then film) you need to show the studio icon on the curtain , then open , I have always done it that way (when I've had curtains to use) it's meant to give the allusion that what you see is real, well enough of dream Land .
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