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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Community   » Film-Yak   » Ilford (film manufacturer) goes bust (Page 2)

 
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Author Topic: Ilford (film manufacturer) goes bust
John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 08-25-2004 09:27 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
What are the two new films? I didn't see anything new listed on your links? Double X and Plus X have been around for many decades.....?

The two B&W reversal films have been significantly improved.

http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/products/bw/blackAndWhite.jhtml

quote:
We're committed to black-and-white film - improvements to our family of reversal films prove it. New KODAK TRI-X Reversal Film 7266 offers finer grain and increased sharpness, and includes EASTMAN KEYKODE Numbers for easy cross-reference of shots in minutes, not hours. Reduced static support allows for a cleaner image throughout the filmmaking process. And because our new films don’t require processing in a bleach containing heavy metals, they’re easier on the environment. Our improved films provide the rich blacks and excellent contrast you've come to expect from KODAK Black-and-White Reversal Films.
quote:
KODAK PLUS-X Reversal Film 7265 (16 mm) is a medium-speed, panchromatic black-and-white film suitable for general exterior photography. It has a high degree of sharpness, good contrast, and tonal gradation. It can also be used in interior photography with ample artificial illumination.

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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 08-26-2004 01:55 PM      Profile for Tim Reed   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Steve Kraus
When I take over I will be making limited runs of nitrate-base MP print stock.
Hear! Hear! Put me down for a few hundred-thousand feet!
quote: John Pytlak
The two B&W reversal films have been significantly improved.

What about 35mm?

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 08-26-2004 02:03 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The B&W negative films were improved several years ago.

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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

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From: Northampton, PA
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 - posted 08-26-2004 02:11 PM      Profile for Tim Reed   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Oh, sorry, John. If I'd clicked your first link, I would've seen that.
[Roll Eyes]

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Stephen Furley
Film God

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From: Coulsdon, Croydon, England
Registered: May 2002


 - posted 08-26-2004 02:35 PM      Profile for Stephen Furley   Email Stephen Furley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I did experiment wth Cibachrome A when iit first came out, but II had two problems with it. Firstly, it was very contrasty, and secondly, the fumes were evil when processing in dishes, in a very small, unventilated, darkroom.

A few years ago II had a lab print a couple of 5x4 shots for me, and they look really something.

I was never very impressed with any of the other reversal printing processes, these days I tend to scan the sliide, and have an RA4 print made. I no longer do any colour printing myself.

The idea wasn't new when Cibachrome was introduced, There was a motion pictrue process which was based on the same idea. It was called Gasparcolor, and was used for a while in the '30s. It was printed from separations, rather than colour positives, and I don't know if any features ever used it, but several animated shorts and advertisments did.

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Stephen Furley
Film God

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From: Coulsdon, Croydon, England
Registered: May 2002


 - posted 08-26-2004 02:36 PM      Profile for Stephen Furley   Email Stephen Furley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I did experiment wth Cibachrome A when iit first came out, but II had two problems with it. Firstly, it was very contrasty, and secondly, the fumes were evil when processing in dishes, in a very small, unventilated, darkroom.

A few years ago I had a lab print a couple of 5x4 shots for me, and they look really something.

I was never very impressed with any of the other reversal printing processes, these days I tend to scan the sliide, and have an RA4 print made. I no longer do any colour printing myself.

The idea wasn't new when Cibachrome was introduced, There was a motion pictrue process which was based on the same idea. It was called Gasparcolor, and was used for a while in the '30s. It was printed from separations, rather than colour positives, and I don't know if any features ever used it, but several animated shorts and advertisments did.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
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From: Music City
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 - posted 08-26-2004 04:28 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I couldn't imagine processing Ciba or Ilford in anything but a drum system, you're dealing with sulfuric acid and the fumes from it. Remember the big neutralization tablet you got in the kits..... Right afrer moving to Utah I bought a Jobo Drum processing system that does up to 16X20's that I still have although not set up today. It does wonders with Ilfochrome and allows very tight temperature control making accurate processing very easy and safe. Never did any film processing in the Jobo as many have used it for, only prints.

Mark

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Scott Norwood
Film God

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From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-26-2004 04:43 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've never done any home processing besides regular B&W with D-76 (Kodak chemistry). Is it really worth the trouble to do color at home? I don't have a real darkroom and the tight temperature tolerances have sort of scared me off from even bothering with E-6 and such.

I've been really happy with the "new" Tri-X and its tighter grain. That's what I've been using most lately in 35mm (and TXP in 4x5), along with the odd mix of E6 and C41 films. I really should shoot Kodachrome more often (I used to use lots of it), though same-day E6 processing is rather seductive.

I don't do prints at home (no space for an enlarger, etc.), and Ilford paper seems to be preferred by most of the local labs. Hopefully that will continue to remain available so that I can have existing prints matched as closely as possible when having them re-printed.

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Steve Kraus
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From: Chicago, IL, USA
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 - posted 08-26-2004 07:57 PM      Profile for Steve Kraus     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Does Ilford work with all the dyes being present and selectivly bleaching them? Has this ever been done with motion picture stock?

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Mark Gulbrandsen
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From: Music City
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 - posted 08-26-2004 08:25 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
"Does Ilford work with all the dyes being present and selectivly bleaching them?"

Yes, thats what the sulphuric acid does thats in the bleach step. I believe the dyes used are Azo type dyes. They are basically permanent after processing. All of my older home done Ciba prints that I made over 20 years ago look just like they did when I made them. BTW: Ilfochrome paper is gray in color is you look at a sheet conforming the presence of the three color dyes. If you tear a sheet(hard to do but possible) you can actually see the three color layers at a ripped part of the paper.

I found this stuff on the web....... its a much better description that I can pull off so here it is:

"ILFOCHROME (also known as CIBACHROME) was developed by the Ciba-Geigy Corporation of Switzerland in the 1960s. It is a positive-to-positive color printing process which takes an original positive *transparency and creates an original positive print image while retaining a first generation sharpness without the need for an *internegative. Other processes such as negative printing processes, "Type R" processes offered by Kodak, Fuji and others, are often referred to as chromogenic processes. These processes use color dyes that are in the chemistry. These color dyes then interact with the developer to form a color image on the paper. With the Ilfochrome Classic the dyes are built into the paper and are bleached out selectively in processing. These dyes are called AZO dyes and are known for their vivid color, stability, and longevity.

Ilfochrome Classic prints are renown for their archival qualities, rich colors, and sharpness. This sharpness is due to the fact that the dyes are in the paper, not in the chemistry, and the dyes in the emulsion act as an anti-light scattering layer. Because of this, the projected image does not spread out as it penetrates and exposes the emulsion.
Unlike chromogenic processes, which create greater quantities of toxic dyes, this process is also more environmentally friendly as it does not waste chemistry. The fixer is conventional and processed after use for silver removal while the developer used for the Ilfochrome process is similar to that used in black and white processes. In the bleach step any sulfuric acid used is neutralized with sodium bicarbonate before disposal and contains no toxic substances after it has been treated.

The most common of the two printing surfaces use in Ilfochrome Classic is the glossy. This surface contains no paper but is made entirely of plastic with a polyester backing. This is also the paper that is used in all archival tests. The second type of paper, called Pearl, has more of a matte surface. It is made of a resin-coated paper material, and though it still has the same emulsion and characteristics of the glossy paper, the Pearl is not considered archival. Therefore, archival in this case has nothing to do with fade-resistance as the same emulsions are use by both types of paper. What it means, in extremely rare cases, is a possibility that the emulsion can separate from the backing. With this in mind, most professional photographers will prefer to print using the glossy paper.

It is important to note that this process is different from the Ilfochrome Rapid method. Ilfochrome Rapid is a faster process and has very different printing characteristics. Therefore, when a lab does your developing be sure to specify which process you want. If you're not sure or you are having difficulty finding answers ask what chemistry they use in the processor. P3, P3X, P30, and P30P are the only chemicals that can be used with the Classic material. If you are told its P4 then the lab is using the Rapid material. If you are considering the purchase of a photographic work of art be sure to look carefully at the print and ask the photographer about what processes were used."
Link: http://artisticforum.com/ArtFacts-WhatisIlfochrome.html



Mark

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John Pytlak
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From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
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 - posted 08-26-2004 08:31 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
http://www.lightroom.com/lr_pages/ilfo_info.html

quote:
What is Ilfochrome Classic (and why isn't it called Cibachrome anymore?) Cibachrome (we'll get to the name change in a moment) was developed by the Ciba-Geigy Corporation of Switzerland in the 1960s. It is a color print material for printing directly from color transparency film, without the need of an internegative...

...The dyes used are called AZO dyes and they are known for their exceptional stability and color purity. Ilfochrome Classic prints are known for both their archival qualities and their rich, saturated colors. When you compare them to other prints, they are also noticeably sharper and this is directly due to the dyes being in the paper, not in the chemistry. By incorporating the AZO dyes in the emulsion, they act as an anti-light scattering layer, keeping the projected image from spreading out as it penetrates and exposes the emulsion.



http://www.freelanceperceptions.com/html/htmlcommon/lanceilfochrome.htm

Kodak Kodachrome film likewise does not have dye forming couplers in the film itself. The couplers are contained in three separate processing solutions, making the K-14 process rather complicated, but with the film having a somewhat simpler formulation:

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/eastman/peopleevents/pande19.html

quote:
The Kodachrome name was revived, and on April 15, 1935, Kodachrome motion picture film went on sale. Shortly after that, Eastman Kodak introduced Kodachrome film for color slides. The process by which this film was developed was -- and still is -- maddeningly complex, but as with everything else at Kodak, the amateur did not have to worry about that, since developing was handled by the company. Vivid color photography for everyday use had become a reality.


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Steve Kraus
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From: Chicago, IL, USA
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 - posted 08-26-2004 09:41 PM      Profile for Steve Kraus     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've heard Cibachrome explained that way before so the question I was leading up to is this: Why is the paper gray and not black? If the dyes are fully formed and get removed in processing then when fully present shouldn't they appear black?

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 08-26-2004 09:56 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I did all of my color paper processing in drums. I have three drums...one for 8x10s, one for 11x14 (or two 8x10) and one big boy for 16 x 20s.

As to color procssing in the home....why not? Depending on the quanity you process, it can be economical and you don't need to scratch your negatives the way the 1-hour people seem to.

Maintianing temp was not that bad...the hardest for me was E-6 processing...The color developer needed to be around 100F. I had a bath of running water with an accurate (Color thermometer) that I would use to regulate the chemistry temps.

For enlarging work, there were chemistries that were not so fussy about temperture (you had a wide range of acceptable temps). I also liked the ability to compose my shots with the enlarger...for my photography...getting the picture in the camera was only the first step...it isn't finished until it is printed. I guess that is why I liked the Ilford films and papers so much...they did what I wanted.

Steve

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Mark Gulbrandsen
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From: Music City
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 - posted 08-26-2004 10:26 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What you have is three seperate even layers of yellow, cyan, and magenta dyes with a white paper backing. This would give you a neutral density or gray value which is how the unexposed-undeveloped paper looks in sunlight. Looks the same if you dialed in about CC60 of each of YCM in the color head of the enlarger. Ilfochrome paper is also pretty slow to be exposed requiring a much longer exposure then many other color papers I've used. BTW... Kodak paper for printing from color negs is light blue/cyan in color. I would guess thats a color mask but for what reasons I don't know. I remember that the blue color washes off in the pre wash stage though. Can't remember what color the undeveloped type R paper was.

I agree with Steve G. on printing things yourself. Especially if one needs to make a large quantity of nice enlargements. There is little to no difference in filter pack values through out an entire roll of film if it was all shot at the same time, or with the same flash. You've no worry about with the negs and compose under the enlarger as you like, and temp control with the Jobo Processor is automatic. Do it your self type C Ilfochromes are about 1/10th of what it costs if you have them done at a really good pro lab... at least once you own the equipment to do it yourself. The only drawback is that if you want archival Ilfochromes then you have to go to a lab as they are machine processed.

Mark

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 08-26-2004 10:38 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
Kodak paper for printing from color negs is light blue/cyan in color. I would guess thats a color mask but for what reasons I don't know.
The blue/purple coloration of color print paper or color print film raw stock is mostly the soluble absorber dyes, that are used to precisely control photographic speed, and absorb light scattered within the emulsion, improving sharpness.

The orange coloration of a color negative is the colored coupler masking, used to improve color reproduction.

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