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This topic comprises 3 pages: 1 2 3
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Author
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Topic: Xnsferring VHS to DVD -or- capturing to PC
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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 09-30-2009 01:10 AM
Joe, I agree with you on the frame information but, for VHS, I don't think the color compression matters. Even with a time base corrector, you'll never get color out of a VHS tape that's better than a DVD can reproduce on SD TV.
For rescuing VHS tapes, I still think DVDs are more than sufficient.
Rescuing VHS onto Blu-Ray would be like putting racing slicks on a Model-T Ford.
Brad, I like your idea about extra backups. I'm not trying to be a dick but it's a good way to upsell the customer. After all, it is extra work for me (even if it's only a 15 minutes) and it is extra value for the customer. I only charge $30 for what I'm giving them now. If the customer refuses the offer, there's virtually no way for them to complain if/when their disks degrade. I gave them the option.
I never use cheap media for projects like this. I always use "name brand" disks. I try to get disks with azure blue or purple dye and avoid green/cyan dye disks. I don't remember the specifics but I remember reading that the green/cyan disks degrade faster plus they aren't as reliable in as wide a selection of players as the blue/purple ones are.
Most name brand media like Memorex, Verbatim, etc. are using the blue/purple dyes now.
I like your dupe strategy too. I will think about doing that for MY DVDs in storage now. It's also another service I can offer customers, as well. I'm not trying to be a greedy capitalist but, WTF, I'm doing the work. The customer gets value out of it. I should get paid for it. Right?
Though, I have thought about "officially" going into business, right now, I limit myself to family, friends and referrals. Out of all the projects I've done since the year began, I have taken in just a few hundred dollars.
You guys are getting me thinking again. Maybe I should put an add in the local Penny Saver.
Oh, yeah! I NEVER put labels on disks. I have a labeler but I only used it a few times. The first time I saw a label come off in a player, I put the thing up on the shelf. I use nothing but Sharpies, now.
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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 09-30-2009 10:54 AM
Brad, I started out charging $50 for 2-hour disks but people complained. I knocked it down to $30 but I specify that is just "copy and burn." No menus. No titles. No editing. Just put in the disk and play.
If the disk spills over two hours, I can increase the compression up till about the 150 minute mark. (Joe is probably getting the shakes right now! ) But, if their material goes over the two-hour mark by more than a few minutes, that will cost them another disk and another $30.
If they want menus or title cards, that's another $5 each and that only gets them a template. Photos, custom graphics and "motion" menus cost more. I "make up" the prices depending on how much work I feel like doing. Typically, I calculate it based on a $50/hr. labor rate. (Yes, I know that pros charge anywhere from $100 to $200 dollars per hour.)
This is why I like your ideas about extra copies and backups. It lets me keep the prices down for people who want things cheap. It lets me offer extra service to people who want it and it keeps people off my back when they complain that their disks don't work any more.
Erie has a depressed economy, even over the national economy which is in a big recession right now. People aren't spending money the way they once did. (or "should" spend money.)
Many people just don't understand the process of how video tape rescue works. As much as I try to explain to them, they just don't "get" why I should charge them $50/hr. That's why I went down to $30 but I charge them for all the extras I might be inclined to do for them (based on how much I like the person) if I charged more.
Sean, If I had the money or had the amount of business to justify the expense I would have bought a label printer that prints right on the disk. It's just not worth it right now. Maybe some day...
I had considered getting some professionally screened disks that have my name on the top part and blank spaces to write in the title, date and client's name but again, not enough business and the expense is too much. Maybe later.
As far as I know, silk screened or inkjet disks don't have the problems stick-on labels do.
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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 10-04-2009 10:34 PM
We have a Lightscribe at work.
They work as advertised and, if you know how to do it right, you can produce some nice labels but there are drawbacks.
First, they take a long time to burn. Some times they take 20 minutes or more. The burn time is dependent on the complexity of the design and the contrast level the burner runs at. Obviously, the more printed area there is on a disk, the longer it takes to burn but, if set to the darkest contrast level, a complex design can take "forever" to burn.
Disks are more expensive, as well. About double the cost of regular.
They are also sensitive to ultraviolet light. If left in the sun long enough, they will fade.
I think Lightsribe is okay but it's certainly not usable for producing more than a few disks at a time. If it was really as great as the advertisers often make it out to be, wouldn't all DVD burners have it?
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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999
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posted 04-25-2010 07:19 AM
Okay...so I have an iMac (Intel based, 5,1 version) and would like to use it to make the occasional DVD from some form of analog source. I don't plan to be doing much of any one type of source but it could be VHS, LD, phone, Camera, DVR...who knows. But from those sources, I want to be able to edit "work on" and output DVDs. This is strictly for myself/family. Note, I suspect many will be just strictly load onto the computer and burn to DVD
First, is there a recommended device (USB/Firewire) to inputting the analog video signals (and audio)? I will definitely want S-Video, Composite and Component available with component being the least needed).
And once that device is connected, do the typical Apple programs that hang around OS X (I'm running 10.6.3) allow for burning DVDs (like iDVD)? I also have Toast...it is probably dated now...Toast 7 Titanium.
Steve
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Paul Mayer
Oh get out of it Melvin, before it pulls you under!

Posts: 3836
From: Albuquerque, NM
Registered: Feb 2000
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posted 04-25-2010 12:43 PM
Regarding Monte's Q and Joe's comment on LDs, yes some LDs (depended on the pressing plant) were known to flex or warp just enough to break their edge seals, thus allowing oxidation of the aluminum layer to occur. Once that begins happening, eventually the disc will become unplayable. In its early stages this "Laser Rot" looks like colored snow during playback. It is also to see the oxidized areas of the aluminum layer by visual inspection of the disc.
As Joe mentioned, since LDs are analog, any scratches or other surface issues will readily show up during playback, just like LPs and 45s... or film!
LDs used a plastic that was hygroscopic - it absorbed moisture from the air. Combined with the large size of the discs themselves, the warping forces could become large enough to cause the edges to split, thus exposing the aluminum layer to the outside.
DVDs use a different plastic that is not hygroscopic. That, combined with the DVD's much smaller size, make them much less susceptible to warping. DVDs can have edge failures too, just not ones caused by warping.
* * * * *
I too am interested in seeing what tools you all are using for doing these kind of video transfers. Out of the several hundred LDs (and a handful of VHSs/S-VHSs) I still have, there are a few I'd like to transfer to digital storage and playback.
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