This is topic Wet gate projection in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Mark on 06-04-1999, 06:08 PM:
 
I was looking at the pictures of this site and I saw that one of the captions said
that this theater is equiped for "wet gate projection". Now, I've heard of wet gate
printing, where a film is immersed in a liquid before entering the printer (which
helps to cover up scratches by slightly filling them in) but I've never heard of this
term used in projection before. Did I miss something? How does this work, and
what are the benifits?
 
Posted by Brad Miller on 06-04-1999, 06:09 PM:
 
Wet gate projection is what most people would call it. For lack of a
decided-upon name it is referred to as P-5.

In the simplest terms, P-5 is a lubricant that will not deteriorate the polyestar base
unlike other lubricants. It does not dry out and evaporate within seconds like
other popular film cleaners (Renovex, Vitafilm, Filmrenew, RTI, etc) but is
designed to stay on the print in liquid form.

The P-5 is applied through the use of a normal media-type film cleaner (soaking
the pads in it) and for optimum results the pads are rewound and run again after
every show and reused for one week at a time. Just one application will make the
film run substantially quieter and smoother. The picture will be more steady and
have better focus. After multiple applications a nice thin layer is formed on the
print, which will cover up scratches and dirt.

The way the P-5 covers up scratches is exactly like wet gate printing does. Again
to put it in simple terms, the light is refracted through the liquid coating bending the
light ever so slightly and giving the appearance of a scratch free print. Granted,
this won't eliminate heavy emulsion scratches, but virtually all base side scratches
will no longer project and over a bit of time will discolor emulsion scratches to
project black.

As to dirt, the constant cleaning through the media cleaners keeps the print
perfectly clean without being abrasive. If the P-5 applications is stopped then
obviously dirt will start being attracted as normal. However, the thickness of the
P-5 coating will keep the dirt layer out of focus during projection and one swipe
of the cleaner (even a dry one) will knock all the dirt off again.

Another benefit of the P-5 cleaner is the stopping of vinear syndrome. In test
prints of early stage vinegar syndrome, applying P-5 would knock out the smell
and as of about 5 years the films have not deteriorated. P-5 will also work nicely
on prints that are starting to shrink. However, both of the above must be caught in
time. Obviously an unrunnable print cannot be magically restored to runnable
condition. P-5 will however make a print run smooth that was on it's last days and
prevent it from deteriorating more. How much longer is unknown as the product
has only been in testing for 10 years.

Still though, for new theaters and new prints, applying P-5 will keep them in better
than brand new condition (because of shipping dirt) for months and months of
constant running. Take for example the scene in Matrix where Keanu Reeves and
Lawrence Fishburne are in the "white" room (basically clear film except for the
actors and two chairs). Imagine this looking as clean as a DVD even after running
for 6 months! That's what P-5 does.

P-5 has been in constant testing for 8-10 years now at various theaters under
varying conditions and equipment. There have been no side effects or negative
feedback whatsoever. The UA Galaxy is a test theater. Hopefully it will be on the
market next year.
 


Posted by Chris Trainor (Member # 9) on 06-04-1999, 06:10 PM:
 

Wow, that stuff sounds cool. I'd love to get one of those systems for my film
collection. Will probably help preserve the films quite a bit.

 
Posted by Christopher Seo (Member # 7) on 06-04-1999, 06:12 PM:
 
Glad to see this product is making progress. I still don't quite understand its
method of working, though. You say P-5 will stay on the print in liquid form.
Therefore, how permanent is this coating? I understand its function as a general
purpose film cleaner which should be regularly used to keep new dirt and new
scratches away, but will it have to be applied constantly in order to keep existing
scratches from showing and vinegar prints from further deteriorating? Can it be
removed or washed off from the print or would this never be necessary?
Basically, I'm not sure if it is intended as something to be used just when the print
is used, or something that always stays on the film.


 


Posted by Brad Miller on 06-04-1999, 06:14 PM:
 
The coating will stay on a print for months, or longer in some storage conditions.
Eventually though, it will evaporate away from time. So yes, it must be reapplied
for archive/collector prints whenever they are ran to ensure they stay in top
condition. However, it takes about the same time to set a cleaner up for running
as opposed to cleaning the projector head after a show...so as far as extra trouble
goes, it really isn't an extra burden.
 
Posted by Mark on 06-04-1999, 06:14 PM:
 

I'm still not quite clear on this: where does the application process take place? Is
this something that is in line with the thread path (after the feed platter)? Or is it
applied on platter make up? From the photos of the UA 9, I can't quite make out
the applicator. Thanks. . .
 
Posted by Brad Miller on 06-04-1999, 06:15 PM:
 

The applicator is a normal media cleaner. It is mounted on the side of the platter
before the film gets to the projector.


 


Posted by Jeremy Spracklen (Member # 18) on 06-13-1999, 03:26 AM:
 
I am one of the fortunate test theaters who have used the wet gate method. All I have to say is wow! Anyone who has seen what this product can do will be instantly amazed. Last year we began using the P-5 film lubricant at what would have to be described as one of the worst Loews theaters in the chain. We had a manager who was dead set on the power of PTRs. (What an ass!) He was just about to purchase a set for the entire theater when we began using the P-5. He loved it so much that when I left he offered to keep me on the payroll just so he could keep using the lubricant. The money he was able to save from the weekly cleaning of the projectors on top of the customers who were returning after finally seeing a presentation free of scratches and even the smallest speck of dirt more than made up for the cost of the bottles. We are now able to keep prints for six months at a time without the slightest mark on the film. It even works great when we get films in bad condition from the other theaters in our zone. No matter how much dirt is on the film, with a couple of applications it looks like brand new. This is a product that will revolutionize the film industry.

 
Posted by Peter Goed (Member # 56) on 06-13-1999, 06:46 AM:
 
This stuff just sounds too good to be true.
How to I get to try it out on my 68 year old Nitrate Prints, which I show on a regular basis and are in extremely good condition, but are starting to show some fine wear lines.

I find it extremely difficult to access new ideas down-under in Australia, mainly because we are so far from the scene where everything is happening.

------------------

 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-11-1999, 03:22 PM:
 
UPDATE:

We are gearing up for commercial production on the film cleaning/lubricant commonly referred to as P-5. Our patent lawyers expect us to be able to release the product within a couple of months.

We have also added another test theater: The Mann Chinese in Denver, Colorado. Joe Redifer will be testing it up there for us. He has agreed to report his findings here on the forum and will try to rejuvenate a two month old print of Phantom Menace to "lab new" conditions. He will also be putting it to the real test of performing ONLY intermittent cleaning, instead of the recommended constant cleaning.

We look forward to hearing your results, Joe.

 


Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 07-11-1999, 03:38 PM:
 
How is P-5 in regards to splices? Does it weaken or loosen the adheisive on the splicing tape? Will it discolor clear splicing tape after awhile?
 
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-11-1999, 03:44 PM:
 
No degradation to splices noticed nor reported.

Many prints have ran from between 4-6 months and a one as long as 8 months, 3 weeks, 6 shows a day.

If splicing onto a print that has been coated, as in a film break or a rebuild of a used print, use your cloth and wipe that frame dry before applying the tape.

 


Posted by Brian Paymer (Member # 57) on 07-12-1999, 12:14 AM:
 
I can't wait. I hate my ptrs. They are the biggest insult to the industry thus far. And they come from Kodak too.

 
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-12-1999, 12:45 AM:
 
You mention PTRs. Therefore I MUST comment. STOP USING THEM AT ONCE!!!! We used to use them quite frequently about a year ago. I was always skeptical about them. So one day I grabbed them all and locked them in one of the soundracks (I have the only key). Our films got noticeably cleaner. There is not much you can do to films that have already had the PTR treatment, but if you have a film that has never had a PTR run on it, it will end up cleaner in the long run.

I will report on the P5, which is now officially called "FilmGuard" over the next few weeks. All I gotta say right now is this -- Start buying as many media cleaners as you can... try to get 1 per screen!
 


Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 07-16-1999, 06:04 PM:
 
I will disagree over the PTR question for I have found them to be exceptional in use especially in large format work.
Another better product though costly is the DryPurr roller. This roller has a sillyputty like material on it and you don't clean them just wrapthem up. They only last about 6 months so are costly and will not work with photoguarded prints. They also eliminate all static
Is P5 similar to Tomakote?
For it is very flamable and we had a film fire in Kitchener Ontario when a belt on a V5 broke wrapping about 200 feet of film around the upper sprocket and the gate and it ignited and the audience could see 6" flames rising off the machine through the portholes.
I understand that even after coating Tomakote leaves a flamable film on the print
Gordon McLeod

 
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-17-1999, 01:06 AM:
 
No, FilmGuard is definitely NOT similar to Tomakote. Your films and booth will not catch on fire should anything jam.

I still must strongly cast my vote away from PTRs as they don't really accomplish anything. In every test, the PTR print looked worse than one that had one or no cleaning to it with a dry media cleaner.

As to large format use, the larger the film, the smaller the dirt particles will be. I don't think that is a fair comparison. I've said it previously and I'll repeat myself here..."PTRs do exactly what they're named after. They transfer the dirt particles from one part of the print to another."

 


Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 07-18-1999, 03:58 PM:
 
I recently had the pleasure of meeting Brad Miller in his booth and thank him for that opportunity. Here are my observations.

His booth was of average cleanliness. The floor was typical UA carpeting which in my opinion is not the best way to go. The projectors were not the cleanest I have ever seen. Brad admits that he only cleans them about once per week. I preface my statement like this in order to say with great certainty.

P5 works!

I observed his oldest print the Mummy. It had been playing for at least 7 weeks. It was dirt free. I couldn't detect any dirt on the print. I saw one spice go through the projector. There was no dirt announcing the arrival of the splice. I saw the motor start cue. I saw the changeover cue and that was it. His ultra sonic splices don't jump in the projectors. Had it not been for the cues I wouldn't have known the splice was there. Is it time for the labs to stop placing cues on the films?

Thanks for the tour Brad.

 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-19-1999, 01:36 AM:
 
Thank you for the report Ian, but remember I said I hadn't cleaned those projectors in about 3 weeks. Normally I do it every week to two weeks. But as you pointed out, using FilmGuard (P5) it really doesn't much matter. The end result on screen will not be affected.

 
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-19-1999, 03:00 AM:
 
I have been using FilmGuard for the past 3 days. Believe it or not, I could see immediate improvements in a few areas. The first was the splices. They run smoothly through the projector now instead of jumping, and the film runs much quieter as well. The onscreen image has improved significantly and by the looks of it will probably be perfect in the next few days. Static is gone as well. This stuff is great and will revolutionize the industry once discovered. More to come after I have tested it more extensively!
 
Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 07-21-1999, 05:15 PM:
 
You mean to tell me that all I have to do is squirt some of this "Film Guard" onto the media rolls of my little 'ol Kelmar film cleaner and all my movies will be "golden"!?

SIGN ME UP!!!
 


Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-21-1999, 07:10 PM:
 
Yes, that's all you have to do. But you keep using the same media pads over and over for a whole week! Your pads will now clean approximately 35 shows instead of just the one show they were designed for. Talk about taking advantage of existing equipment.

The 2 films that I put FilmGuard on, which were shedding massively, are now clean as a whistle. Last week it took us 30 seconds with compressed air and at least an additional minute wiping (and scraping off hard gunk) to clean the projector. Now they barely even need to be wiped at all. Not to mention that the onscreen image is 100% immaulate! Perfection! Digital video cannot compete with this!
 


Posted by Brian Paymer (Member # 57) on 07-23-1999, 04:56 AM:
 
HOW MUCH LONGER? MY PRINT OF PHANTOM MENACE IS FLAKING APART INTO DUST!
 
Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 07-23-1999, 03:49 PM:
 
I've been looking at Kelmar's website for prices & they don't have a price list posted, nor do they have an E-Mail address to contact them for prices.

What is the price for a Kelmar, or equivalent film cleaner and mounting bracket?

I'm interested in pitching the "FilmGuard" idea to my boss at Mercyhurst College. We get some CRUMMY prints.

I need to get the film cleaner and bracket for a Simplex / Potts Alpha system.

PS: What will be the price for a bottle of "FilmGuard" be when it becomes available. (Ballpark)

K.Y.S.O.T.I.
 


Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-23-1999, 04:00 PM:
 
I don't think that you can mount a cleaner on a STRONG platter. Mount it on top of the projector instead. I could be wrong here, and you can always drill holes.

I understand your frustration, Brian. There have been some slight delays that have nothing to do with the FilmGuard formula itself, but it should still be fairly soon, hopefully. I had a print of Phantom Menace (Kodak) and a print of Big Daddy (Kodak) that were both shedding like no tomorrow and they are both perfect now, after less than a week. Yes, it even works on Kodak prints! I don't even use it on FUJI prints (no need), but I am still trying to obtain more media cleaners as it does bring out the colors!
 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-23-1999, 04:52 PM:
 
Estimated price will probably be between $30-35 a bottle (which will last 8 screens about a month...cleaning every print every show.)

Kelmar charges around $400 per cleaning machine if I remember correctly. You can purchase them through your normal cinema vendor and get an exact price.

The Christie platters come with the holes ready to mount. As for other platters such as the Strong, you can drill holes and insert a pre-threaded insert for mounting. I find it easiest to work with the cleaners on the side of the platters, but they can be used equally well on top of the projectors.

The delay in releasing FilmGuard is due to the plastic rewinding cores. The master cast mold is to be ready in about 3 weeks and assuming everything is ok, will be about 1-2 weeks after that for release.

 


Posted by Sheldon Harris (Member # 69) on 07-23-1999, 05:06 PM:
 
Brad.... What would be your recomendations for a film collector like myself in using Filmguard. Like I project my prints maybe once a year at best..they are mostly in storage. Would you suggest that I apply Filmguard before each showing or is it something I should be applying on a scheduled basis whether I project the print or not? Also the overwheling majority of my prints are 16mm acetate... is Filmguard OK for acetate?
 
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-23-1999, 09:15 PM:
 
FilmGuard works perfectly for triacetate film stocks. It is however, the only lubricant to date which will not damage polyestar film.

For collector type prints which are only shown once a year, I recommend running them through the FilmGuard with every showing to ensure they don't dry out over time, become brittle and shrink.

Just a note, the Kelmar/Christie dry web media cleaners are easily converted for 16mm use!

 


Posted by Jim Ziegler (Member # 86) on 07-24-1999, 03:46 AM:
 
I check our PO's from opening and according to them, a Kelmar cleaner with bracket is around $470.00...

Convienantly too much for me to order without authorization...

Which, by the way, gets me wondering, WHY are they $470.00? The material costs on these things can't be more than $20.00...
 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-24-1999, 05:53 AM:
 
Take the back cover off of one someday. There are precision manufactured gears and drive chains.

I have a newfound respect for higher priced articles such as the cleaning machine. I just found out recently to make the little plastic rewinder keys (for rewinding the media when using FilmGuard) that the mold itself would cost $9200.00 And that was not much more than a slightly modified media core!

Something tells me Kelmar isn't making all that much on those little cleaners. What is the going rate for PTRs? Someone recently told me $90 each! That's almost $200 for a set and that doesn't include the mounting bracket either. Oh yeah, and they don't do anything. A $1.99 egg of Silly Putty would probably pick up dirt better.

 


Posted by Jim Ziegler (Member # 86) on 07-24-1999, 02:26 PM:
 
I've been in the back of one.. Honestly, it didn't look that complex...

I have also wondered why Christie charges $5.00 for those pins that hold the reels onto the make up table...

As for PTR's, the last theatre i was at we paid close to $600 for a SPECO PTR with a bracket and two rollers.
 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-24-1999, 03:06 PM:
 
Talk about your highway robbery! All the SPECO machine is, is a slightly fabricated piece of metal. Granted $200 of that is the rollers, but is that "machine" worth $400? I think not. Especially since they don't work.

I always thought it funny in the SPECO ads for this product the film running through the PTRs is faded red. Kind of makes you wonder what the long term effects are! (just kidding)
 


Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 07-25-1999, 03:13 PM:
 
Here's another item for the list of "unnecessarily expensive cinema equipment": those little blades that cut the tape on a Neumade splicer (the ones that look just like razor blades) cost $7 apiece! Now _that's_ highway robbery!
 
Posted by Aaron Mehocic (Member # 15) on 07-26-1999, 10:43 AM:
 
Scott,

I agree with those blades being overpriced. What is Neumade thinking? Are they made out of platnum or something? Three years ago, I ordered eight new blades and it took literally ALL SUMMER for Neumade to send them out! That's customer service! Anybody else had a problem receiving equipment from Neumade?
 


Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-26-1999, 11:28 AM:
 
When we built my theatre, we tried to order Neumade splicers. They said that they were "all out". We bought CIR splicers instead. A few weeks ago I ordered a Neumade splicer and it came within 3 weeks or so. Very quick. Neumade is a crappy company, but their product (except their lamphouses and platters) are good. Anyway, weren't we talking about wet gate projection or something in this post?
 
Posted by Gene Stavis (Member # 110) on 08-10-1999, 04:04 PM:
 
<<That trick on 16mm depends completely on your projector. Many
16mm projectors can't
handle the overlap. Most can, though. I'd try it and see how it runs
through the gate. Perhaps
you could make a loop. Just make sure the overlap is very, very small.
Not even the thickness
of a dime.>>

Paillard Bolex made a 16mm splicer which bevelled both the emulsion and
base sides of the
splice, so the resulting overlapped splice was the same thickness as the
original film. Anyone
had any experience with these?

I have a large collection of 16mm prints and I use an RTI Pulsar 800
inspection and cleaning
machine. Will Film-Guard be able to be substituted for the RTI liquid
cleaner?

 


Posted by Sheldon Harris (Member # 69) on 08-10-1999, 04:22 PM:
 
Yes, like Gene I have the RTI cleaner machine and would love to try the Filmguard with it...possible??
 
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 08-10-1999, 05:48 PM:
 
I've never used the RTI machine. I would assume it would work just fine. Can someone explain how it works? Is it a drip system like the Eeco?
 
Posted by Sheldon Harris (Member # 69) on 08-10-1999, 10:43 PM:
 
On my machine, the intended cleaning liquid was RTI Type B, which I no longer use and have replaced with Filmrenew.... the fluid drips on to two cleaning tapes. The film passes between the two tapes. The cleaning tapes feed off a supply roll and pass through the cleaning gate and to a take up roll and cannot be reused.
 
Posted by Gene Stavis (Member # 110) on 08-11-1999, 07:32 PM:
 
The most obvious difference between RTI Type B and FilmRenew (and, I presume FilmGuard) is that RTI is extremely fast drying, like ECCO 1500. In fact, the machine uses a large, horizontal loop of film to allow the fluid to dry before it gets to the take-up reel.

I have used the ECCO system too. It also depends on the fast-drying quality of the fluid. RTI automatically advances the flannel tape; ECCO requires you to do it by hand.
 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 08-11-1999, 09:09 PM:
 
From the sounds of the two descriptions of the RTI machine, I see no reason why it would not work. However, I would just say to soak the pads down (like one hell of a big Kelmar cleaner) and NOT put anything in the drip container. FilmGuard does not evaporate...thus, a constant drip would get those pads literally dripping wet and there "is" such a thing as too much.

 
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 10-12-1999, 12:13 AM:
 
Yeah, Film Guard is great stuff!

I hear it comes in 5 gallon drums now if you go through it like no tomorrow.
 






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