Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Filmguard

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Posted by Sheldon Harris (Member # 69) on 08-10-1999, 04:17 PM:

Brad.... what's happening with Filmguard? Where and when can I buy a bottle to start testing the stuff out? A few questions... and remember I'm a collector.. I'm not a 35mm operator running the print 25 times a week. Is filmguard usable like Urbanski's Filmrenew to soak a print for awhile to get the curl out of an old I.B. Tech print? Soaking with Filmrenew in my experience has also stopped early vinegar syndrome, how bout that for Filmguard? Will Filmguard soften tape splices or cause them to give out? I'm anxious to try Filmguard as an agent for "wet gate" projection but I want to know if these other uses are ok with Filmguard. One other thing... before I go the expense of a dry web Kelmer unit, do you think I'll be able to get a good test by hand applying the Filmguard between rewinds and then running reel to reel.

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 08-10-1999, 05:23 PM:

Currently we are looking at the last week of August for release. There has been some holdups with minor things (nothing with the actual mix). You should in a short amount of time be able to purchase it through your normal cinema vendor, but can also be purchased through Film-Tech. An announcement on the main page will be posted once it is officially available.

Soaking? Never tried it. I would think that wouldn't be the best idea, since FilmGuard is intended to stay on the film and not evaporate. If you soaked a reel, I don't think you could possibly get enough gate tension to keep the picture steady, as it is so slick when applied normally the gate tension needs to be bumped up one or maybe two notches. The end result would be a print that was just too slick to run. Of course, you could always go back and clean some of the FilmGuard off with a dry cloth...but why bother?

For a curl problem, run your film through FilmGuard a few passes and wind it loosely in the opposite direction of the curl. For example, most collectors store their films right on the takeup reel. This is emulsion "in" and will produce a "base curl" where the film is arched outward on the base side. I have been able to rid prints of such curl by lubricating with FilmGuard and winding emulsion out loosely, then leave them alone for a month or two. Another tip...make sure the end of the film that was originally on the "core" is still on the core when rewound. Hence, if the film in question has been stored tails out, after you lubricate it make sure it is stored tails out...but emulsion out too. The curl will always be the worst at the core and by keeping the film wound in the same direction will help reverse the curl more evenly.

Yes, FilmGuard can be applied with cloth between rewinds. However, your hands will be very slick for quite some time! It doesn't just "wash off." That's why we are shipping all bottles of FilmGuard in bottles with sprayer attachments.

Posted by David Koegel (Member # 25) on 08-11-1999, 01:05 PM:

Well Brad, I just wish you'd hurry the release process along, because "soon" is not going to be soon enough for me :-) I've got some wonderful 35mm IBTech prints with VS that I can't wait much longer to try Filmguard on. Maybe someday I'll be able to keep them out of the spare refrigerator. And I'm glad to hear that you'll be selling it direct as well. Keep up the good work.

And, I'm still looking forward to your write up on modifications to the Simplex sound drum's "dirt embedder."

Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 08-24-1999, 04:40 PM:

Last week we ordered a new Kelmar film cleaner for the projector at Mercyhurst and it arrived yesterday. Today I installed it and it is working fine.

Now all I need is a bottle of FilmGuard.

The test run that I gave the the film cleaner got a lot of crud off the film. -- and that was DRY! I was suprised at how much crud came off a reel film that I *THOUGHT* I was doing a good job of keeping clean.

I feel pretty confident that I treat film pretty well. Here at Mercyhurst College, I have a lot more time to do things right. At my regular job, I have a lot of time pressure and although I TRY to keep the film clean I have to cut corners to keep up. (Also there are a few people who aren't as conscientious as they should be.)

That leaves me with two thoughts:

1) I guess I wasn't keeping the film as clean as I thought. I'll just have to redouble my efforts!

2) If the film cleaner got that much dirt off by itself, how much is the FilmGuard going to get off that the dry media can't. (A lot more!)

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 08-24-1999, 04:59 PM:

It's amazing, isn't it? Even running those little cleaners DRY works far better than any PTR roller I've ever worked with did.

"If the film cleaner got that much dirt off by itself, how much is the FilmGuard going to get off that dry media can't?"

All of it. Only 2 more weeks to wait.

Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 08-24-1999, 07:31 PM:

Yes, all of it. But not on a single run, mind you. Depending on the condition, it can take up to 35 runs or so, but that is worst case scenario. If you can, just keep motoring it through and rewinding the pads each time, but don't reapply any FG. If you run it from the first run, it will never get dirty at all. Probably not scratched, either!

Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 08-25-1999, 03:44 PM:

I was planning to apply it by hand during the inspection process before build-up. Then I would screen the print with the cleaner on. By the time it gets shown to the public it would have been cleaned twice.

I am thinking that there might be a way to make a bracket to fit onto the make up table for the film cleaner to attach to. That way I could give it a cleaning right as I reel it on to the platter.
(At low speed.)

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 08-25-1999, 05:05 PM:

I really do not recommend hand cleaning. It is not a very effective means to clean film, especially to place an even coating of FilmGuard with.

It is very easy to mount a cleaner on the rewind bench between reels. Just build your print on large reels (preferably one 16,000 footer like I do) and then rewind through the cleaner, then load to platter. The only thing I do not like about this idea is if there is a lot of shipping dust, running through the high tension of a rewind bench is not in your film's best interest.

I think my warning of streaks the first show or two may be taken a little bit of too big a thing. It's a very minor thing. Just stick to doing it on your run through. If it really bothers you, load your print as normal and "speed wind" from platter to platter through the cleaner (mounted on the platter tree) once before you screen it. That works too, but again...not as effective as real time cleaning.

You will get the absolute best results from the instructions enclosed with the bottles of FilmGuard.

Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 09-23-1999, 12:06 AM:

Just a note to say that I got my FilmGuard and it works as advertised. I'm a satisfied customer.

The only thing is that now, I get all these dirty, crummy prints and send them out all nice and clean! The NEXT guy doesn't have to worry about anything 'cuz I fixed up his print for him! (Assuming I did a good job of breaking down & stuff. -- Which I think I do)

If MORE people would use the stuff...
1)I would get a nice, clean print for a change!
2) I wouldn't have to worry about the first run-through as much.

(Maybe people could write a little "FG" on the head of reel one to let people know?)