This is topic Fixing Pro 35 Projectors in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Charles Lubner (Member # 157) on 11-11-1999, 08:44 AM:
I'm good at adjusting/repairing Simplex XL's, but the theatre I work at now has all Pro 35's. One projector has a bouncing problem. When it's running, I can see the intermittent moving back and forth, in a vibrating motion. How can I adjust this to stop the bouncing? Or do I need to call a tech?
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 11-11-1999, 09:37 AM:
Framing coupler is shot!!Also check outboard intermittent bearing adjustment.
Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 11-11-1999, 12:19 PM:
See my post #27 in "How do you run those platter things anyway?!?"The Ballentyne Pro35 has a bad rep in the industry because things on it wear out too quickly. The gate and trap are made of plastic and get grooved quickly by the film. So your problem may be worn out film path parts.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 11-11-1999, 06:07 PM:
All the pro35's in Canada (not the 70mm version) have all steel gate and trap parts and other than leaking oil they give really very little trouble considering they are almost all in grind houses.
Posted by Scott Ribbens (Member # 180) on 11-11-1999, 06:56 PM:
I agree. It sounds like the intermittent coupler is bad. Does it sound louder than the others? Is the framing sliping? Is the intermittent,(if you feel the end), clunking?AHHHH, how I LOVE to change those couplers! 
You also might want to put a little more tension on the gate with the scew, and see if it helps for a little while.
------------------
Scott
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 11-11-1999, 11:32 PM:
Actually the best thing to do with a Ballantyne is to replace it completely with another brand of projector.
Posted by Charles Lubner (Member # 157) on 11-11-1999, 11:57 PM:
Yeah, it is louder than the others. I've tried adjusting the gate tension and it doesn't help. I can literally see the intermittent vibrating back and forth while it's spinning. Of the 6 Pro 35's we have, 5 have broken changeovers, 2 go through couplings like toilet paper, and 2 leak oil. The Century JJ 35/70 we have runs GREAT, and the Brenkert we have runs....like a Brenkert.
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 11-12-1999, 12:21 AM:
Stick with the Brenkerts---they run forever and are built like a tank.Your BOWELantynes are probably leaking oil out the shutter shaft.
What are the changeover problems?
Posted by Scott Ribbens (Member # 180) on 11-12-1999, 02:01 AM:
As stated above, check the outboadr intermittent bearing. When you say that you can see it moving, I assume that you mean that it is moving back and forth (inboard/outboard). Just remember not to over tighten it, no pliers - just finger tight, some people make that mistake.
Posted by Art Averett (Member # 367) on 11-12-1999, 05:46 PM:
You have to be careful on the outboard bearing. The adjustment is held in place with a set screw. Back off the set screw and with the projector not running, adjust the outboard bearing finger tight. With the projector free running, again adjust the outboard bearing until the intermittant stops moving in and out. Do this very slowly. When it stops moving in and out, then stop adjusting and tighten the set screw.
Posted by Scott Shepard (Member # 196) on 11-13-1999, 02:07 AM:
The picture bounce is 99 percent the intermittent coupler going bad. It would be a pain for you to change on your own if you have not done it before. Believe me, it takes changing a few before you get it right. The washers and the bearings in the coupler housing need to be reinstalled precisely. The coupler fits in a certain way also in the housing. You have to be very careful removing the coupler housing or you could strip the grooves and then your framing will slip. The outboard bearing should also be replaced at the same time. When the bearing goes bad it also contributes to the demise of the coupler. Trust me, it is a major pain to change them out. If I never change another coupler I will be happy.