We are showing Some Like it Hot which is Black and White with North by Northwest, which is color. Some Like it Hot produces lots of powder and North by Northwest doesn't, so I know it is because it is a black and white print. They flake.

In my house with Girl Interrupted I am getting big flakes, not powder. The former projectionist said, "Oh, it always does that."

I am going to look at the steel, trap bands and see if they need to be replaced. Is there anyplace else in a Strong Simplex that you would recommend that I look for problems?

I went to Radio Shack and bought a couple of cans of air for $20 in order to blow out the projectors. Can you recommend a similar product at a lower price?

 

An alternative to buying the compressed air cans is the RAC from , I believe, Kinetronics. It is a lot like the commercial cans you use, but it's refillable when empty.
When you tank it out,place it in it's base and it refills it automatically.They also have handy attachments.
(It;s an idea I had long ago and should have patented.)
It may be pricey up front (I'm not sure) but it has to be more economical in the long run.
 

ps: I haven't seen any damage to the image yet. The booth is too dark to see any damage to the film. Girl Interupted will move to another auditorium next week and Angela's Ashes will be in this auditorium. I don't want to damage any film.
 

In the October 1994 issue of "Film Notes for Reel People" (H-50-34), Kodak proposed the use of SC Johnson Paste Wax applied to the sidewalls of the wound film as an "EMERGENCY" method of lubricating prints that had not been properly lubricated, and were being abraded by certain projectors. The Summer 1998 issue of "Film Notes for Reel People" also discusses projector dusting:
http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/newsletters/reel/summer98/pointer.shtml

As noted, care is needed in applying the correct amount of paste wax to be sure it penetrates to the edges and perforation area where it is needed, without getting into the picture area or building up in the projector. The article clearly states the care needed to apply the wax properly, and that "the added wax will make the film roll more slippery".

Other proprietary post-process lubricants are on the market. Kodak has avoided recommending any particular proprietary film treatment because of the potential for misuse and possible adverse effect on the film. For example, in some areas of the world, mineral oils have been used as film lubricants, causing oil mottle, winding problems, stickiness, and leaching of the oil-soluble dyes from the film. Foreign materials (especially oils) applied to the film may later interfere with rewash processes and base treatments sometimes used by distributors to "rejuvenate" used prints.

As the Film Notes for Reel People article recommends, first find out what area of the projector is causing the abrasion. In most cases, the gate bands/rails or the intermittent sprocket shoe are the culprits. Check for any burrs, rough spots or buildup of hard debris. Use the lowest tension for the gate that will maintain a steady and sharp image. Use the lowest tension for the sprocket shoe that will keep the film properly wrapped on the sprocket. Clean and lightly lubricate these film-contacting components before each show. (Use a stick of carnauba wax, hard paraffin wax, or a very thin coating of paste wax).

When using a proprietary film treatment, follow instructions carefully, and be careful not to apply too much. Rely on the experiences of others in choosing a treatment, and recognize that some treatments may cause problems if the prints are later rejuvenated. If oil mottle (streaking and blotching), winding problems, stickiness, dye leaching (colored spots) or other problems are encountered, you may be misusing the film treatment product.

------------------
John Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Professional Motion Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Eastman Kodak Company
Rochester, NY 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
john.pytlak@kodak.com

Have your tech check the trap to shoe alignment. (On my Century SA-TA's, I use the 1/4 inch allen wrench 'trick'.) Once that proj. was fixed, the problem pretty much disappeared. With FilmGuard, it's 100% non-existant!
 

Ian, the only "Big Strong Flake" is YOU! I have several projectors that flake more than others at my Christie-plex. I can't figure out why. But here's what you do. Run your media cleaner with FilmGuard on that projector for at least the first 3 or 4 days any film is in there. Then move the cleaner to another print on the other days. If one particular projector is giving you problems, then it needs FilmGuard the most. The only part of the film you are probably damaging are the edges. And only the SDDS tracks are there and nobody cares much about SDDS anymore so I wouldn't worry.
 

------------------
"And the monkey flips the switch."
- Major Don West, "Lost In Space"

Andrew D'Vrey
IATSE Local 219
 

North by Northwest is a gorgeous print. It was brand new. It had only been plattered once before. Our Some like it Hot print is equally nice. That's why we got them. Look for Rear Window later this year.

Andrew,

There are no problems with ventilation in our booth. Apparently, nobody in Santa Rosa has heard of weather stripping. My cat's favorite sport is sticking her paws under the doors and batting at whatever is outside. I have to solve a ¼ inch light gap in our auditorium exit doors.

Thanks Carl, I will look into that. I want to solve the problem before I am covering it up.

 

(Joe: You thought I was the big dumb projectionist, who notices nothing.)