This is topic Simplex E7 Ghosting. in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Mike Heenan (Member # 392) on 03-18-2000, 01:08 AM:
Hi there, Im having trouble with my Simplex E7 with ghosting. I did what the manual says in regards to the shutter knob, and unlocking the shutter screw underneath the lense. But I still see ghosting. Can anyone offer any suggestions? Thanks.
Posted by Pat Moore (Member # 380) on 03-18-2000, 07:04 AM:
Hiya;
What type of ghosting are you seeing -- trailing up or down? By doing the adjustments you mention do you make any difference? May just be that the shutter has slipped on the shaft and you can't "fine adjust" it any more.Pat
Posted by Mike Heenan (Member # 392) on 03-18-2000, 08:01 AM:
It appears to be both up and down. Especially on subtitles, and credits and stuff like that, but also people and objects too. When I adjusted the knob, and tightened the screw, I noticed a very slight difference, but it may have been just my eyes.
Posted by Jeff Stricker (Member # 224) on 03-18-2000, 08:34 AM:
I had travel ghost problem on my Brenkert BX - 40 when I first got it running. I am using a home made light source with a quartz halogen lamp and a condenser lens. To make a long story short, I had the light source too close to the shutter and light was leaking around the shutter when it should have completely blocked off the light. I moved the light souse back away somewhat from the shutter and the problem disappeared.
Posted by Mike Heenan (Member # 392) on 03-18-2000, 08:50 AM:
I'll try that, thanks
Posted by Pat Moore (Member # 380) on 03-18-2000, 01:43 PM:
Hi Mike;
If ghosting is both above and below, it's one of three things.
First, way excessive play in the gear train. With the machine stopped, ideally the shutter should have no more than one-quarter to on-half inch rotational play in its gear mesh.
Second, there's a drive-in style shutter installed. The blade on a rear-shutter only projector should be around 90-degrees of cover. If it's narrower, it might leak light top and bottom.
Third, as the last post from Jeff mentions, the light source might be too large an angle coming into the projector. The cone of light at the shutter is too large and the shutter can't "cover" all of it. Try pulling the light source back to narrow the cone of light.
What is the light source? Did this originally have a front-shutter mechanism on it?Pat
Posted by Scott Hicks (Member # 376) on 03-18-2000, 03:10 PM:
Hi Pat. Nice to hear from you!
Posted by Daryl Lund (Member # 356) on 03-19-2000, 05:58 PM:
Hi Pat , How is Bob Boytano? Rember the the Elma theatre? I sold it years ago. I have a new one. Scott Hicks and crew is helping me turn into a uptown joint .
Posted by John Eickhof (Member # 323) on 03-19-2000, 09:23 PM:
It is probably excessive wear in the shutter drive gear, and the shutter driven gear. Is it a vertical shaft machine or is it oblique?
(Is the main shaft straight up & down or does
it run at an angle to the right from bottom to top?) What happens in this case is the shutter blade will 'float' thus timing becomes erratic. You will need to replace both the steel drive gear and the fibre driven gear in order to fix it. There is a
woodruff key in the steel gear that also may be worn out. It should be replaced too.
Part numbers for OBLIQUE shaft are: G-297 Fibre Gear,K-162 Key for G-297, G-258 Steel Gear,
K-161 key for G-258.
Parts for VERTICAL shaft type are: G-332 Fibre gear, G-338 Steel gear. The Oblique parts are readily available from your dealer, the vertical parts are becoming scarce..
Good luck!
Posted by Tyler Skinner (Member # 229) on 03-19-2000, 11:23 PM:
yo heenanaz, still trading? ;-)
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