Static: The "layers" of film stick together and an extra "loop" of film tries to go into the brain, sometimes casing a wrap. Answer: Get FilmGuard.
Damage: Usually becasue somebody mis-threaded the projector somehow. As the film rewinds on the platter it will seem to grow in diameter. It will also be kind of "spongy". That's becasue the sprockets in the projector have jumped the track, so to speak and have put little "dents" in the film. These dents push the layers apart becasue they act like "spacers" betwen them. Answer: Inspect the film. If it's damaged you'll have to get a new print.
There may be other casues, but these are my two best guesses.
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Colin Wiseley
Lyric Theatre
Blacksburg, VA
www.thelyric.com
Excessively dry conditions in the booth can also cause winding problems. When the relative humidity is very low (e.g., in the winter when the heat is on, or in a desert climate), the gelatin emulsion on the film loses moisture to the dry air and shrinks temporarily. Since the polyester film base doesn't change much with humidity, the shrinking emulsion pulls in, causing the film to cup or curl excessively. Severe curl or incorrect winding tension may cause the film roll to wind unevenly, or take on the shape of a polygon ("spoking") instead of a perfect circle.
Kodak recommends maintaining a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent in the projection room. At very high humidities (greater than 65%), the gelatin emulsion may actually get more soft and sticky, and the film can have "negative curl". At very low humidities, the emulsion shrinks so the film will have excessive "positive curl", and the film surface becomes less conductive, so static dissipates more slowly.
Every projection room should have an accurate humidity gauge to measure relative humidity. The low cost digital gauges sold by Radio Shack (e.g. Model 63-855) and Edmund Scientific are surprisingly accurate. Another quick gauge is to simply observe a short clip of free-hanging print film. It should have a very slight amount of "positive" curl, where the edges of the 35mm film curl upward only a few millimeters.
If the humidity is too low, use a humidifier to add moisture to the air. In moist or tropical environments, a dehumidifier or air conditioner may be needed to keep the humidity under 65%. Adjusting the HVAC system balance may help too.
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
A year or so ago, we had a print that would "cone" upwards so much, it would pick up the take-up ring way past the two pins that hold it from spinning.
I find this to be from print damage in the sprockets 99% of the time. I have also seen this from excessive takeup tension on an older SPECO with the single elevator roller.
It was quite bizarre, but it was just that one print. I ended up saying "to hell with it" because it projected so beautifully.
Speco platter #3 was a loose winding kind of platter and the projector in #3 was embossing the film because one of the pad rollers was too tight to the sprocket. When I moved the print to the platter in #5, also a Speco, but one that wound tight, the damaged film would "cone up."
I adjusted the pad roller and that was the end of that problem. How do you adjust the pad roller, you ask? You take two pieces of film and thread them over the sprocket like you would with one. Then you try to turn the pad roller. if it is too tight, you adjust the pad roller stop-screw. The pad roller should just be loose on two thicknesses of film, but tight on three thicknesses of film.
I hope this helps. I have Simplex machines, but I understand the theory works on all machines.
When you are talking about film thicknesses, what kind of film are you talking about? Acetate? Polyester? Fuji or Kodak (Kodak is thicker). Lots of variables.
At first I thought that Christie had a better idea, because you didn't need to unlatch anything to release the ring. But it can fall out fairly easily while moving a print. Now that we move prints a lot, I'd rather have the latching kind. I modified two Christie rings to maintain tension for when prints are moved.
I've had two break over the years, but when I looked at the break, it looked as if the casting was made wrong. They wouldn't replace them, even though they agreed it was manufactured wrong because the rings were several years old.
And don't replace those two nylon pins on the Christie ring with steel pins if they break. I did that, thinking I'll never have to fix those again. A week later, someone removed the ring by picking up only one side and bent/distorted the hole on the deck.
Also, check that stupid adjustable caster/roller on the take-up. If it's slightly out of line it can cause a bit of beehiving too.
Since it doesn't happen on just one platter, I'd say people are right in suspecting something wrong with the film. My first guess, again, is sprocket damage. ("Spiked film") We used to have that a lot. We buckled down a lot at TT-17 and it's truely a rare occurence, now. Fire a couple of guys and that kind of stuff will STOP. (Or if you REALLY want to hurt a guy, demote him/her to USHER! :O )
Do get one of the Radio Shack or Edmund Scientific digital humidity gauges. If your air conditioning is "broken on that side of the booth", the humidity is probably too high (if the air conditioning is not removing moisture) or too low (if the room is getting hot). In either case, the film curl may be affected adversely. Remember, 50-60 percent RH is best for projection rooms.
Does the uneven wind affect all the reels, or is only one reel affected?
In addition to the "spocketing" or "run off" damage other posters have mentioned, is there any chance the print was "stretched" by abnormally high tension at some time? Excessive tension can deform the film enough so it won't wind evenly.
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
--Chris
To give an example of why even "a very small amount of sprocketing" on one edge of the film may cause uneven winding and dishing: Print film is approximately 0.0053 inches thick. If the thickness of the film pack on the platter is 12 inches, there are 12 / 0.0053 = 2264 convolutions of film stacked on top of each other in the roll. If the film has sprocket damage along one edge, the height of each perturbation in the surface is magnified by 2264! So if the sprocket teeth nicked the film surface by only 0.0001 inch, the film pack would be 2264 X 0.0001 = 0.2264 inches thicker on the damaged edge. That kind of thickness difference would cause the roll to "cone" or "dish" as it is wound.
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com