This is topic Strong Super Highlight Blues in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 04-08-2000, 04:58 PM:
My Strong Super Highlight lamp house no longer strikes the lamp automatically. It doesn't strike it when you throw the switch, and it doesn't strike when you de-select the Auto button.It does strike very well when you hit the Emergency Strike button. This is what we do for each show. It doesn't strike when it is hot.
What should I look for? Can it be the igniter even though the Emergency Strike works well? Or is it a Relay or Automation problem?
Lamp; House Strong Super Highlight
Lamp; Christie CXL 30SC
Automation; Strong SPA-7
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 04-08-2000, 05:17 PM:
Any chance it could be the bulb itself?
Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 04-08-2000, 05:51 PM:
We installed the lamp in January and it now has 600 hours. It doesn't flicker. The envelope looks clear.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 04-08-2000, 06:54 PM:
Which type of ignitor do you have is it the older one with the relay on a small circuit board or is it the newer dc pulse type
If it is the older change the relay it is usually a R10 style and also change the 555 timer on the circuit board it is mounted on
Also the zenier diode on that board maybe wrong for the noload voltage of the rectifier
Strong has had a problem with the wrong control boards over the years being shipped with lamphouses
As it a bulb gets older it requires a higher no load
What make of lamp is it
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 04-08-2000, 07:09 PM:
What model is the power supply? Is it the switching supply or the older high reactance type with the dial switch on top of the power supply. If the "blocking diode" in the old power supplies was bad, you lose the auto strike, but can still stike by pushing the emergency button.
I have seen many problems with the small relay on the igniter board going bad. Also, the 555 timer chip on the igniter board tends to come loose from it's socket. Sometimes I also had to replace the ic socket so it would hold the chip firmly.
Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 04-08-2000, 08:03 PM:
The lamp is a Christie CXL 30SC.The power supply is a switcher.
The board on the igniter is one of the older styles with the relay on it. I will give it a whirl.
Posted by Andy Davis (Member # 262) on 04-08-2000, 11:40 PM:
While we're on the subject, I've had similar problems with the old ORC power supplies. Any suggestions with these?
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 04-09-2000, 10:37 AM:
Ian-How many STRONG power supplies did we change out at Greenwood? They were easy and convenient to change out for a reason: THEY SUCK! Call STRONG and bitch. Tell them to send you a Christie SLC30. 
Aaaah, if only it were that easy, though.
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 04-09-2000, 10:45 AM:
Ian:The igniter board is where your problem lies. First, when you place the lamp on manual and try to strike it the "regular way"...what is the no-load voltage (press the button/switch by the meter)...it should be well above 100 volts (the switcher should get above 120 volts).
Presumming that you have the proper no-load voltage, do you hear a "clicking" from the igniter area (it will be faint since it is just the relay)...it will cycle on and off. If not then the problem probably lies with the zener diode that drops the voltage to the relay via a power resistor.
If the relay is operating but it isn't igniting, then look towards the relay. Strong, for whatever reason, doesn't use both sets of relay contacts (but does bring the other contacts out to termination points on the PCB). Many times I have found half of the relay bad and burned up but the other contacts are fresh and new. If I ever have the board in my hands, I always jump the contacts so both are in use. If it is your relay contacts, this will get you going again and when you change your relay down the road, you will have both contacts working for you.
Steve
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"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"