This is topic The Perfect Roller Cleaner? in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Dustin Mitchell (Member # 372) on 04-10-2000, 08:06 PM:
Ok, well the other day I noticed that the rollers on our platters were filthy. So I was looking around for someting to clean them with. I saw the nail polish remover we use to clean the whiteboard and thought "Well, if it works for dry erase markers, it must work for film gunk"-ok, so there was nothing else and I was rationalizing.Surprise surprise, it works great. The rollers look brand new. Now before I apply this elsewhere I would just like to know if this can damage anything (film, parts of the projector, etc). I wouldn't think so, I tested on a buttom platter rewind roller (worse came to worse I just wouldn't use that one unitl I could get it cleaned) and the nail polish remover seemed to evaporate off the roller very quickly and not leave any residue.
So whats the verdict? Am I a dumbass or is this a good idea?
Posted by Alan Brandt (Member # 426) on 04-11-2000, 01:27 AM:
It was a good idea, but the ingredients in dry erase cleaner is pretty much just rubbing alcohol. Thus why it evaporated so fast.Use 90% or higher isopropyl in booths because anything less may contain too much water causing rust)Besides, the alcohol is around 88 cents per bottle at Wal-Mart compared to the $2.50/bottle of dry-erase cleaner. Speaking of rust..That shall be an interesting topic nearby. I'll still give you kudos for your cool find though!
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 04-11-2000, 07:22 AM:
Dustin:Alan is correct that White Board Cleaner (for cleaning dry erase surfaces) is usually just isopropyl alcohol. The 91% isopropyl "rubbing alcohol" is similar and cheaper. Isopropyl alcohol is safe to use as a cleaner on most plastics.
But you said "nail polish remover", which usually contains acetone. Acetone will attack and soften many plastics or painted surfaces, and should not be used as a cleaner.
------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Posted by Greg Mueller (Member # 17) on 04-11-2000, 08:47 AM:
Try lighter fluid, but don't smoke while you're doing it.
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 04-11-2000, 09:38 AM:
Isn't cigarette lighter fluid usually naphtha? Unfortunately, most of the suitable cleaning solvents today are either quite flammable or hazardous to your health --- so use care!------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Posted by Dustin Mitchell (Member # 372) on 04-11-2000, 09:43 AM:
Well, you can buy non-acetone remover, I didn't though
.So what your saying is that the ingredient that is doing such a great job is rubbing alchohol?
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 04-11-2000, 10:01 AM:
Isopropyl alcohol can be used on most plastics, and as a "spot" cleaner on film. But be sure that it has minimum water content, otherwise, the gelatin emulsion on the film will absorb the water and get sticky. Rubbing alcohol is typically either 70% or 91% isopropyl acohol, so there is water as a contaminant. Alcohols are flammable.Do NOT use other alcohols (e.g. ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol, 3A-alcohol) on film. Don't even ask if you can use 100-proof vodka as a film cleaner (not only would it be bad for film, it would be a waste of good liquor
)
------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Posted by Bryan Redemske (Member # 354) on 04-11-2000, 12:22 PM:
When I clean rollers, I usually just take them off at night, toss them in a bucket with 409 and call it good. You come back in the morning, wipe and dry them and you're ready to go. Very white, very sparkly. All with minimal effort...which is quite nice sometimes.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-11-2000, 12:26 PM:
Guys, Guys.......Don't use any of those dangerous chemicals to clean with! Use Simple Green diluted in water. All you have to do is protect your hands so the skin doesn't fall off while you're cleaning parts over several hours. This stuff can work out real well and parts can come out looking like new. I've cleaned entire projector castings(dismantled of course) by first degreasing them in a traditional Safety Clean parts cleaning machine and then doing a clean up/scrub up with Simple Green. Rince and dry off completely. Blow any rince water from the screw holes too. All I do then is to spray down the wrinkle paint with WD-40 and the darn things look like new.
Have fun!
Mark
Posted by Alan Brandt (Member # 426) on 04-11-2000, 03:20 PM:
Bryan has the right idea overall, but the only downfall is that many super-mega-jumbo-extra-large "go large" cinema-plexes would have way too many rollers to do that with. Maybe they'll hire a real sleepy person full time to perform that tedious job that will never be caught up, except in places where child labor is still legal.
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 04-11-2000, 03:22 PM:
Simple Green is great. That's what I have in my booth. I also find that it won't freeze up your bearings, but I still recommend avoiding contact with them.
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 04-11-2000, 05:37 PM:
I use NOVUS # 2 Plastic Polish available at any Novus windshield repair shop.
It works great on any plastic.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-11-2000, 06:46 PM:
Hey Ken,
Thats a great idea. I use that stuff on my Harley windshield and it works great. I think Brad should buy a bunch of it and have labels made that say "Roller-Guard" to stick on the bottles. There could be a pretty good markup there.........
Mark
Posted by Greg Mueller (Member # 17) on 04-11-2000, 08:09 PM:
So is Naptha not good?
Posted by Nic Margherio (Member # 273) on 04-11-2000, 08:34 PM:
Mark, Brad doesn't need to market "RollerGuard" because FilmGuard works quite well for this purpose too. You don't need to use very much of it either, just apply a small amount to a shop rag or Q-Tip, hold it to the roller and spin it until FilmGuard has dissolved all that gunk. It has to be safe for the plastic because it is safe for polyester (plastic) film. (Right, Brad?)
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 04-11-2000, 10:51 PM:
Yes, it is safe for plastic. I've never tried it personally as a roller cleaner, but then again, I haven't had to clean any rollers since I started using it 10 years ago either.
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 04-12-2000, 08:19 AM:
Nic,
Its all in the marketing of it you know......
Brads gotta retire some day too.
Mark
Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 04-14-2000, 02:19 PM:
The only things we have to clean when we use FG are rollers and sound drums. Usually if you FG the prints right away it happens less.We use 91% Iso. Alcohol. It's cheap and it works well.