This is topic Splicing Tape in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Richard Quesnelle (Member # 391) on 04-12-2000, 10:56 PM:
When we make-up film at the theatre, we use Splicemark red tape (made in the UK) and CPI clear tape (also made in the UK) for breaking down and shipping out.The brand of splicer we are using is nade in Italy. That is all I know. Is it at all similar to the Neumade brand. (when I find out the company, I will post it).
Are these makes of tape relatively good?
Just wondering. They seem to come off OK.
Any thoughts.
REG
Posted by Dustin Mitchell (Member # 372) on 04-12-2000, 11:37 PM:
Here we go again.
You should really use clear tape for building, or at the very least a good brand of 'zebra' tape. Reason being is that opaque tape will:
A) Show up on the screen
B) Cause certain digital systems to 'drop out.' Apparantly SDDS and Dolby Digital are the lemons. I don't have any experience with SDDS but know that our Dolby systems don't drop out on opaque splices. Anyway, better to be safe than sorry.
C) Cause a 'pop' in analog sound systems. Again, this is not the case with our stereo sound, but your situation might be different and it is better to be safe than sorry.
Posted by Megan Penmann (Member # 233) on 04-13-2000, 01:56 AM:
We use the Splicemark red tape as well. In case some people haven't seen this tape (if it's what I think you're talking about), it's clear in the middle, with transparent red stripes on the inboard & outboard sides. It's also not as wide as most of the splicing tape I've seen.
We also have a "Made in Italy" splicer... The other 3 we have look similar, but are much crappier and have absolutely no brand name or any kind of markings on them. We've only had them since we opened (in December) and already one of the handles (which resemble bicycle handles) broke off, and another one refuses to cut the tape. And forget repairing them-- you can't switch out parts from other splicers because apparently the craftsmanship is a little too irregular. As far as I'm concerned, they must have gotten these splicers at a "Buy 5 projectors, get a free splicer" sale, because THEY SUCK!
New splicers are on my ongoing list for booth supplies, but who knows when we'll get them. I think Film Guard is probably higher on the list, and I can't get that until we get the cleaners to put the Film Guard on. And who knows when THAT will happen.
(Sorry, just venting a little after a late late night building up, cleaning projectors and previewing prints).
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 04-13-2000, 02:09 AM:
Your "Made in Italy" splicers are probably made by CIR
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 04-13-2000, 02:25 AM:
Is this the splicer?
CLICK HERE If it is, Joe is right on the money as it is one hell of a piece of shit.
Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 04-13-2000, 08:57 AM:
Richard: see the post topic; "All About Splices-some questions for you guys." We talked about alot of stuff you might be interested in."If it is, Joe is right on the money as it is one hell of a piece of shit."
Don't sugar-coat it, Brad. Tell us what you really think! 
Posted by Nicholas McRobert (Member # 205) on 04-13-2000, 10:38 AM:
I would totally disagree, as CIR splicers are all I use at the moment. I have never had problems with the overlap function, tape getting stuck in the perfs or any other similar to the problems I encountered when using other splicers. One in particular that I used in the past that stuck out as a real stinker was made by Marble....talk about a piece of shit....Nicholas 
Posted by Ari Nordström (Member # 288) on 04-13-2000, 03:36 PM:
I've used CIR splicers for years. Unfortunately I have to agree with Joe and Brad here; most of these splicers aren't any good. They can be made to work well, though. The one I use works fine but needs fairly regular cleaning and adjusting ,or those sticky little squares will start showing up on the Dolby Digital reader...Damn, I hate it when that happens.
Posted by Alan Brandt (Member # 426) on 04-13-2000, 05:35 PM:
The answer is yes they are junk, no, I don't use clear tape between reels. At least on a dumb movie anyway. That makes it too difficult for the boneheads who work with me to find the damn splice. I especially don't worry about it if the movie stinks.
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 04-13-2000, 08:04 PM:
You know, I like the 16mm version of the Ciro splicer (tho I admit to having never used a 16mm Neumade), and I don't think that the 35mm version is quite as bad as everyone else here seems to think...
Actually, I think that the issue here isn't so much that the Ciro splicer is crap, but rather that the Neumade 35mm splicer is so good. If someone set out to design the "ideal" tape splicer, I think that he would come very close to the Neumade design. It's solidly built, simple to use, relatively easy to align, and the splices run smoothly through any projector that I've used.
Still, the Ciro splicers _do_ work. They're actually the standard splicer used by film editors for cutting workprints (both 16mm and 35mm), and they're way better than some of the other alternatives...has anyone used a splicing block and razor blades lately? Or a Griswold cement splicer?
Posted by Dave Williams (Member # 299) on 04-13-2000, 09:56 PM:
The SPLICEMARK RED TAPE is clear with the exceptions of the red markers on the ends of the film. I use this tape now, and thanks to Mark over at GTS for that.------------------
"If it's not worth doing, I have allready been there and done it"
Posted by Richard Quesnelle (Member # 391) on 04-13-2000, 10:04 PM:
Ya boys, I checked it out tonight and it is a CIR splicer. We have two of them (a modello special and a rapide roma). After reading all the replies, I now notice how crap they are. Are they any adjustments that I can do Brad, Joe, anyone? I don't own the place so any little help will do (things would be way different if I did).
REG
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 04-13-2000, 10:24 PM:
Scott: I own a Ciro 16mm tape splicer and I love it! I also use a Ciro 35mm tape splicer at the Skyline Drivein. NEVER had any trouble with it.
Works fine for me.
Posted by Dustin Mitchell (Member # 372) on 04-13-2000, 11:11 PM:
quote:
Originally posted by Alan Brandt:
...no, I don't use clear tape between reels. At least on a dumb movie anyway. That makes it too difficult for the boneheads who work with me to find the damn splice. I especially don't worry about it if the movie stinks.
Hmm, ok.
Can't you use zebra tape though? That in my opinion is a decent compromise.
Watch your opaque splices go through sometime. You can see the tape (I didn't think so a while ago) and to me it is annoying as hell.
Posted by John Wilson (Member # 269) on 04-14-2000, 02:34 AM:
OK...What have you done with the real Dustin?
------------------
"It's not the years honey, it's the mileage".
Indiana Jones.
Posted by Dustin Mitchell (Member # 372) on 04-14-2000, 06:43 PM:
quote:
Originally posted by John Wilson:
OK...What have you done with the real Dustin?
Yes, I have seen the light (Gordon, you reading this?). I guess opaque splicing tape is like changeover cues. You can go to movies for years and not notice them, but as soon as someone points them out you see them every time. Now that people have pointed out the deficencies of opaque tape I can see them and it is annoying.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 04-15-2000, 11:32 AM:
Dustin a convert My life has finally had a purepose In respect to splicers I use the CIR exclusivly and never have any problems with them. The knockoffs of them are crap
If 2 layers of tape are left across the bridge and no one triesx to clean out the perfhole they give little problem. Once a month I take the blade out and soak it in spirits to remove gum and sharpen it on a stone
Marble splicers are the worst
Posted by Ari Nordström (Member # 288) on 04-15-2000, 04:14 PM:
I've never had the chance to try anything else than CIR tape splicers, 16 or 35, so I guess I don't have anything to compare them to. The 70mm tape splicer I use is unmarked - it doesn't have any brand name on it - so I don't know about that. It looks like a CIR to me.Many of the 35mm CIR splicers I've used through the years have been less than perfect. I clean them regularly but those little %&¤## sticky squares are hard to get rid of. The 16mm version is better. I've never had any trouble with it.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 04-15-2000, 04:37 PM:
To quote the CIR manual do not attempt to clean out the holes in the splicer bridge.
The idea is that the perf cutouts stick to the one at the top in the bridge and not on the print.
Never had a problem with the perforator yet
Posted by Ari Nordström (Member # 288) on 04-15-2000, 04:50 PM:
Gordon,I realised this early on. The problem is that the cutouts do get stuck on the print rather than on the previous cutout, and while the CIR splicer I use now is fairly OK, it's far from perfect. The extra time I have to use inspecting and cleaning the splice is annoying.
I never got a manual with my CIR, though.
Posted by Mike Blakesley (Member # 26) on 04-15-2000, 05:02 PM:
I have a Guillotine splicer that has been in my booth for 21 years. It still works well. The only thing I've had to replace on it is the trim blade (once) and the handle (twice)-- the original handle was Bakelite, and it broke; the second handle was made of pot-metal and it just wore thru at the pivot points. This splicer looks a lot like the CIR one in Brad's photo. Is CIR the maker of Guillotine? (I realize that name has been nonexistent for a while.)Has anybody bought one of the Neumade 35SS splicers lately? How much do they cost?
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 04-15-2000, 05:20 PM:
Guillotine was a distributor for CIR
Posted by Bruce McGee (Member # 131) on 04-15-2000, 11:07 PM:
OK guys! You brought it up, again.What the hell is wrong with a Marble splicer? I have one, and it makes decent splices...Not like a Neumade, but, guys, I did not pay $300 for it either!
Bought it used for $50.
I WOULD like to purchase a pair of blades for the thing... should I just flush it down the toilet?
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 04-15-2000, 11:46 PM:
It's just us "perfectionist projectionists" at work again.