Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Platter Cleaning

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Posted by Barry Floyd (Member # 385) on 05-10-2000, 12:37 PM:

I just purchased an older model Christie Autowind Platter, and it looks like the platter disc's are made of fiberglass or something similar. What's the best way to clean these without messing up the surfaces
The make-up-table is made of the same material. They look like something really ugly from the 70's, but work perfect.

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 05-10-2000, 01:01 PM:

Sounds like it's a Christie Autowind 2. I recall that the AW-2 uses a plastic laminate surface. The operations manual is in the "Manuals" section of Film-Tech. On page 17 of the manual, it recommends using Ajax, Fantastic, or a strong soap to clean the surfaces. Don't wax the surface (makes it too slippery), or use paint thinner or other solvents to clean it (may damage the plastic surface).

Platters with non-conductive (plastic, painted, or anodized) surfaces tend to be more prone to "static cling" problems, because there is no "path to ground" for any static buildup. Be sure to electrically ground the platter frame, and periodically treat the platter surface and rollers with a conductive antistatic treatment like "Static Guard" or "Endust for Electronics". These materials increase the surface conductivity of the platter and rollers, so static buildup can dissipate faster.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com

Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 05-10-2000, 02:16 PM:

I've always used "409" or "Windex" to clean platters. Just make sure it's completely dry before you put film on it again. It will leave the platters feeling slick until it's dry. If the stuff gets on the film, I can't imagine how that would be any good for it, either. Alcohol would be my second choice.

In the days before FilmGuard we also gave the platters a good coating of "Static Guard", too.

Posted by Jason Burroughs (Member # 68) on 05-10-2000, 03:57 PM:

One thing that I've found to clean platters pretty well is carbonated water. I usually used this as a "rinse" after using alcohol or Windex or a cleaner of the sorts. It removes any residue left over from the cleaner and the slightly acidic water disolved a thin layer of wax buildup on the platter, wipe dry and you're done.

Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 05-10-2000, 11:00 PM:

Use Novus # 2 Plastic Cleaner available from any Novus windshield repair shop.

Posted by Will Kutler (Member # 770) on 07-12-2001, 05:37 PM:

Ya, I am bringing up another old topic.

I actually saw someone clean AW-3 platters with alcohol. Do not do this as it will tend to oxidize the aluminum.

To help with static discharge, Christie has had machined aluminum rollers for quite some time, and they really work well.

I did not like to use the suction cups to secure film--they can leave marks on the platter. I liked the hula-hoops. But be careful, they can be flimsy--and I do not think that they will work w/all platters.

Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-12-2001, 06:23 PM:

I've never had to clean Christie platter decks, and I always tuck the film. If you don't like doing that, I recommend using a "Bevan-Poo". Check 'em out in the "Reviews" section.

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-12-2001, 07:09 PM:

Yes indeed, the simple "tuck" is all that is necessary. Why people go to such extremes for securing the tail when they could just time the platter properly is beyond me.

For cleaning platters, see the Christie platter tips page and follow the instructions for "buffing/grooving" the decks.

Posted by Jonathan Haglund (Member # 807) on 07-12-2001, 08:27 PM:

Be wary of buffing platters though, not everyone understands and supports the procedure.

Ask your boss first (if you have one) before trying what they would call "newfangled" ideas.

Posted by Will Kutler (Member # 770) on 07-12-2001, 08:45 PM:

I respectfully disagree with you guys about just tucking the tail. I remember reading somewhere about tucking not being good. It was either in another thread or on a Kodak suppliment.

Anyhow, prior to my employment at my old theater, I was told that there had been a very bad case of platter fling. Call the hula-hoop a security blanket if you will, but it did save our asses on a few occasions--and I do not believe that it had anything to do with platter timing.

Remember to properly ground the platter. That one aluminum roller on the pay-out head really made a difference!--along with Film-Guard!

You dont clean your platter decks?! Unfortunately, we did not have a very good ventalation/filteration system in our booth, and our equipment was subjected to outside dirt. Cleaning the decks was very important--mild soap and water per Christie's suggestion. I always cleaned my decks before doing any build-up of a new print! And then used new Film Guard media and pads for the dry run Thurs night for Fri. openings--no streaking problems, either because of this. In addition, decks were cleaned every week as part of daily maintenance.

By the way Joe, is "Bevin-Poo" a rip on Englands Foreign Minister

Posted by Paul Turner (Member # 832) on 07-12-2001, 11:09 PM:

I'm very careful with my AW-2 decks because i was told they cannot handle too much off center weight. Even using a splicer (doing a splice -- presing down on the lever) on the side of a AW 2 platter deck can "spring" it. Mine appears to be wood covered by a laminate. So, if you're going to buff it, be cautious of the amount of pressure you're exerting against the deck -- especially the outer edges. As for cleaning, I use a solution of Simple Green. Works great for me.

Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-13-2001, 12:40 AM:

Not "bevin"! I have never seen it spelled that way.

I agree with Brad that if the platters are timed properly there should be no problem of the tuck coming undone (assuming that the tuck was performed correctly as well).

Once when I was opening up a new booth, one of the projectionists told me that we were not allowed to tuck the prints because "technically that is damaging the print". Apparently a technician had told him this (or that's what he said). I took this "logical" reasoning and ignored it. Never had any problems due to a tuck becoming undone. Even if the tail comes undone, it shouldn't fall off of the deck (of course, this is again assuming a correctly timed platter and a well done tuck). Unfortunately, there are many ways to create a "bad" tuck as well.

Also, Paul:
When you splice at the platter NEVER press down onto the deck as you splice (on ANY type of platter). Instead, lift the splicer up and close it with your hands to make the splice.

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-13-2001, 08:36 PM:

"I remember reading somewhere about tucking not being good."

Don't believe everything you read, Will.

Perhaps this picture of Titanic in 70mm TUCKED will make you cringe. Did it dump? Hell no! (Look at the middle platter.) I've also come onto a shift where a new projectionist was running long movies (3 hour range) and forgot to tuck the tail or secure it in any fashion. Did it dump? Nope! It's all in the timing of the platters and the buffing of the decks (assuming the booth doesn't have a static problem or uses FilmGuard).

Posted by Darryl Spicer (Member # 711) on 07-13-2001, 11:29 PM:

some notes about the aw2's:

you can use 409 to clean them just use a dry cloth to dry them off. The platter surface is actually a type of formica like is used on some concession stands.

Make sure the take up roller on acumulator arm is adjusted so the only the edge of the film rubs the metel flang around platter deck. If it is too low it will scratch the film

In the brain you will find some nylon plastic looking stems sticking up. Remove the one that runs between the rollers in brain. Film can get rapped around this one easy if you are not careful.

The motors on these always seemed to eat up the brushes quickly. Keep an eye on these and change when needed. When these wear out platter can run eratically.

I wouldn't recomend the film tuck on these perticular platters. Keeping these things in any sort of time was a bitch.

Posted by Joe Grace (Member # 341) on 07-14-2001, 07:09 PM:

I have always used alcohol to clean platters and I have never had a problem with it yet. I useto use windex but I switched to alcohol because it seemed to clean the surface better. Will K., I have never seen alcohol oxidize a platters surface, how long does it take for that to happen?

Joe