This is topic Leaders- a how to in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://ft-forum.com/ft/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=001314

Posted by Richard Quesnelle (Member # 391) on 08-16-2000, 10:09 PM:
 
What is the best way to build your own leaders. How much film do normally use? What types of film do you splice together: ie black, clear, countdown? How much of each film type?

Thanks

Richard
 


Posted by Mike Spaeth (Member # 524) on 08-16-2000, 10:16 PM:
 
I use 50 feet of clear leader, followed by 9 feet of black leader, both with frame lines. I usually make up and store "leader reels" on preview cores, w/ the proper amount of each, so that all I have to do is add it like I would another trailer. When the projector is threaded, the black leader should be at the top of the film gate, to make up for the seven-second dowser delay (at least w/ my CFS automation). That way the dowser pops open as the first trailer hits the screen. 9 feet is what I was taught - I haven't actually calculated the seven seconds worth, though - does someone have an exact measurement?
 
Posted by Paul Konen (Member # 41) on 08-16-2000, 11:08 PM:
 
1 sec is 18 inches of film. So 7 seconds is 10 and 1/2 feet.
 
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 08-17-2000, 02:09 AM:
 
20 feet clear
10 feet framing
40 feet clear
10 feet black

The 20 feet is to reach from the failsafe to the platter's takeup ring.

The 10 feet of framing leader is obviously to thread on.

The 40 feet clear is enough to ensure that if the show is started with the curtains open, there will be enough time for the curtains to close before the actual "start" cue goes through the machine, which is placed at the start of the black. This stretch of leader also guarantees the start of the first trailer does not get damaged from airborne dust as well as providing an "abort" possibility.

The 10 feet of black is used to ensure the douser will always open ON BLACK. For standard 7 second douser automations, if the douser dies, the black leader can be motored down to the first foot of it and the show can be started on the timer as normal without having to use the manual douser (great for timers).

This also saves significant $$$ on leader costs, as the clear non-frameline leader is very, very cheap and comprises the majority of the leader.


 


Posted by Michael Cunningham (Member # 210) on 08-17-2000, 03:27 AM:
 
A better way to find a length of time on leader is by counting frames. 24 frames per second, as we all should know. For leader, I use the standard 50 feet of blue, frame marked leader with countdown numbers. You have to be careful with these numbers though, as they are only 16 frames apart for some strange reason and are not truly seconds. We use the eight in the framing window on our seven second start-up automation and it always opens perfectly at the start of the first trailer.

-Mike
 


Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 08-17-2000, 09:12 AM:
 
The numbers being spaced 16 frames apart is 1 second at the silent speed of 16fps
This is the classic academy leader
 
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 08-17-2000, 10:23 AM:
 
With platters, we use the blue "NT Audio Visual" leader, which has probably 20-30 feet of clear film with framelines marked with huge blue lines and then a standard academy countdown. Usually, we add clear or black frameline leader to the head of this as well. The "home-made" alternative, which we sometimes use, would be clear or black frameline leader with a countdown before the feature.

With reels, I usually use the lab-printed leaders and tails if they aren't damaged. If they are unusually short, I will add clear leader to the heads and/or tails as necessary, which I then remove before the last show. I do save countdowns from trailers that actually include the full countdown for use when the original lab leaders are damaged or (dare I say it) missing.

If a print arrives with damaged or missing lab leaders, I generally return it with good countdowns on (at least) R1 and R4 (so that it can be shown 6000' reels without extra repair) and a few feet of clear leader on the head and tail of every reel in order to protect the image area. I, of course, also include a note to the next theatre apologizing for the condition of the print and stating that it arrived in that condition and that there was not time for a replacement to be ordered.
 
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 08-18-2000, 08:48 AM:
 
What are Film-Tech film handler's preferences between polyester leaders (very durable and unbreakable) vs. triacetate leaders (breaks if there is a misthread or other problem on startup)?

I recall from another thread that triacetate is a good idea for tail leader, in case the last few laps jam on the platter. But what about for head leader (threading and framing)?

Do people prefer leaders that are about as stiff as the print itself, or do you prefer really "stiff" (i.e., thicker) leader for durability?

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
 


Posted by Ari Nordström (Member # 288) on 08-18-2000, 10:25 AM:
 
Polyester leaders are a recipe for disaster, in my humble opinion. When used at multiplexes, they can wreck a projector before today's average projectionist discover that something is wrong. I've seen scary things happen when people have misthreaded.

The tail leader should NEVER be made of polyester but yes: even the head leader should be triacetate. As for the thickness of a leader, I'd prefer to not have them too stiff. Proper care of the equipment and an unhurried, careful threading should be enough to increase their durability in any case.


 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 08-18-2000, 03:42 PM:
 
I find the thicker the head leader, the harder it is to not quite get the film right on the track. This is why I've always prefered the Xetron Xelar leader, as it is the thickest I'm aware of and will last an incredibly long time. I'd be interested in seeing what FPC is making though, as I know they are manufacturing processing leader which is incredibly thick and would probably be a bit of overkill. Acetate is fine for head leader, but it just won't last too long...especially with platter setups where the upper roller is not straight up and down or the film must be wrapped around the entire projector head due to conduit. Acetate leader isn't too swinging for changeovers either with large reels, so I say stick with polyester for heads.

A good alternative for making up the heads as I described above is to replace the last 10 feet of the 40 foot clear stretch with a stretch of acetate. That way if there is a misthread, it will just snap and drop the failsafes.

I NEVER use polyester leader for tails. First off it is too stiff and has a tendency for a tuck to go flying out from under the print. Second, generally if the film is going to tangle, it will be in the last few rounds. I have always added 30 feet of acetate clear tail as standard practice and it has saved me much grief over the years. It also keeps the end of the credits nice and perfect.


 


Posted by Robert Throop (Member # 61) on 08-20-2000, 01:24 PM:
 
There are 16 frames per foot of film. The "academy" leader was in increments of one foot.

------------------
Bob Throop
 


Posted by Richard Quesnelle (Member # 391) on 08-20-2000, 10:35 PM:
 
Brad

You mentioned that you don't use polyester leaders. Well aren't all films made of polyester these days so? So if I was making my own home made leaders from old trailers, they would be made up of polyester segments. So then is it worth the time and effort to do such a thing if polyester is so bad, or just put out the money (which of course will never be there).

Richard
 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 08-20-2000, 11:24 PM:
 
I don't use polyester leader for "tails".
 
Posted by Leo Enticknap (Member # 534) on 08-27-2000, 03:46 PM:
 
The only situation in which I would avoid using acetate head leaders is when running a Westrex tower. They tend to start off slow and then pull like mad as the take up motor comes up to speed, and are almost guaranteed to break acetate leaders unless you're very lucky.

But we really don't have much of a choice anymore, now that acetate has virtually disappeared. Most of the head leaders I use are nicked from the front of trailers and they're all poly.

The stronger stock is probably a good idea as the leader is the section of film which has to absorb the strain caused by the projector mechanism accelerating from stationary to 1 1/2 ft per sec.
 


Posted by Joseph Pandolfi (Member # 223) on 09-01-2000, 11:09 PM:
 
Mike C. We also use the same procedure which having the eight in the frame window, or I always call it --> 8 IN THE GATE <---. This is how I was trained in threading. We have a eight second delay from the motor start to the changeover actually opens. By then the splice from the mylar leader and the policy trailer is just clearing the Christie basement reader as the CP65 is switching from Non-Sync to the films playing format. This make a good sound segue without the "pop" when the splice goes thru the soundhead.


 


Posted by Wayne Cope (Member # 437) on 09-02-2000, 12:27 AM:
 
I use clear mylar leader that is marked with frame lines and a soundtrack line. I believe they are over 25 feet. I land up threading to the same spot naturally. I start the equipment before beginning to dim the auditorium lights and my goal is that we are on-screen just as I finish dimming. Sounds like many of you have it down to a science. I just watch to see where the payout is at for dimming. I think if I had automatic dimmers, all I'd change would be to mark my own start position on the leader.

I triple check my threading, spin the projector motor immediately before pressing its power button, and I give the platter disks a gentle push. I've never had a problem except for one back in 1985. I was new to the Christie projector of that day. Somehow, two or three times, I threaded so that on startup the gate popped open. But there was no damage, not even stretched mylar, so there was no need for triacetate's breakaway ability.

One note on spinning the projector motor and the platter disks. This both makes those motors and drive trains last longer and it acts as another check on my threading. If something's wrong, I will spot it more quickly in the process of doing these things.

The trick to getting a perfect show start is simply total concentration. If someone tries to interrupt me, I simply answer them like a zombie. They just can't get into my mental space. Now if only I had this ability when it comes to one of the administrators I have to deal with!

I like how indestructable mylar is for leaders. A film festival we hosted left us some of their extra. This stuff looks like it put in some time on a dance floor, a rodeo arena, or someone's driveway, and it still runs smoothly thru the projector. But mylar vibrates very differently from film. I "tune" my loops. If I am working a projector I don't know, I run shows with loops of different sizes to find the exact position that is the smoothest. Of course, you can never judge that by the mylar!

As for comments on tails, you all are not kidding. I'm the manager-operator for a small art house and we get the whole gamut of film conditions. I've seen a catalog's worth of strange things. It seems to me there's a fifty percent chance if something weird is wrong in a print, it's wrong somewhere between the middle of the credits and the last sprocket hole. But all I do is check whatever's on the print.

What I am wondering is how much time many of you can actually devote to startup? If you are running a large multiplex with a demanding schedule, it seems to me some of you are being asked to work so that you don't have time to do anything but press the button and run to the next projector at showtime. Of course, I've heard stories about places where that button is pressed from a remote location.
 






Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classicTM 6.3.1.2