Any "rules of thumb" or design criteria available anywhere?
There's a big difference in light output between a something along the lines of a Strong Ultra80 as opposed to something like an ORC or CFS.
Assuming you've got a "normal" sized drive in screen, 4kw is usually required, but there are plenty of exceptions. Consider ambient light conditions and general air quality -- if it's naturally dusty, longer throws will cost you some light. I always found drive-ins easier to light in winter because the air was cleaner -- less stuff floating around in it.
Have to say, you should include Strong in your considerations -- very good 4kw lamphouse and optical system. And yes, I'd say that even if I didn't work for us.
The best light vs heat I have come across is Kinoton though. It is the only lamphouse I would consider for say 16mm and 3KW (which we just installed)...you can put your hand in the projection beam (between the film gate and the lens even) and not feel uncomfortable after a minute.
As Pat said, throw really isn't a significant factor in light, unless you are close to pollution or live in a foggy area. About the only factor that will crop up is that at 141.2mm your f/stop will start increasing on standard lenses (thems the physics). If you are anticipating being in the 6 - 7" range, consider finding some B&L Super Cinephors (4" diameter)...they actually really work quite well for their age and are actually coated! I believe they have a typical speed of f/1.7 which, for a drive in, every little bit helps!
Steve
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"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"