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Posted by Marc Jones (Member # 29) on 08-26-2000, 05:39 PM:
Nuemade Console: that the bulb does not lite.
1. The bulb had 4000hrs on it so I replaced it. - no effect.
2. Verified the 3pahse power into the recterfier and contactor on the power supply, I have voltage and I ohmed out the contactor they tested OK.
3. Voltage on the +,- terminals was 3.6 v dc
0 v ac.
Any ideas
Thanks Marc Jones
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 08-26-2000, 05:49 PM:
Did you check the diodes in the power supply?
Posted by Sean M. Grimes (Member # 445) on 08-26-2000, 06:04 PM:
Marc,
I totally agree with Ken on this one - make sure you check out the diodes with a multimeter. After working with the XCN consoles for quite a few years Almost all of the problems concerning ignition are the diodes or the contactor. Also check and make sure that the ignitor connectors are "firmly" connected. The Irem power supplies are built like a tank, at least in my opinion. But I am allways changing out the diodes.
Posted by Marc Jones (Member # 29) on 08-26-2000, 06:06 PM:
Not yet, I thought I'd download the manual first, I'm checking them next.
Thanks
Marc Jones
Posted by Marc Jones (Member # 29) on 08-26-2000, 06:12 PM:
One more quick question if I find A diode that has failed replace the bad one or all?
Thanks
Marc Jones
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 08-26-2000, 06:12 PM:
For the voltage to be on 3.6 volts all the diodes would have to have failed so look at the contactor and make sure there is power on both sides of it Ie it has pulled in
Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 08-26-2000, 06:32 PM:
Forgive me for asking a stupid question but have you verified that any and all interlock switches are closed?I have taken NUMEROUS calls from people at theatres who don't know what to do and EVERY SINGLE TIME it was a bad interlock (safety) switch. We had to drive 250 miles only to find that one of the switches was bad. (To the theatre's credit, it was a hidden switch)
Usually there's a switch on the door(s). Maybe one in the "stack" and likely one on the lamp blower. You'll find "proof paddles" on the blower switches. Make sure they haven't come loose and that the switches are all okay.
Again, I don't want to sound like I'm saying something stupid but we've fielded literally a DOZEN calls for this very thing. Every single one was due to a busted interlock / safety switch.
Posted by Marc Jones (Member # 29) on 08-26-2000, 07:05 PM:
The interlock switches seem to be working the contactor on the power supply will energize, so I assume the interlock loop is made Door switches and blower switch
Thanks
Marc Jones
Posted by John Eickhof (Member # 323) on 08-26-2000, 09:03 PM:
Your problem is most likely the contactor. You must power up and energize the contactor, then check the voltage across each of the outputs of it to each other AND to GROUND, your reading should be 208 / 240 volts from one to another, and 120 / 195 volts from one contact to ground. (Higher voltage is for 120/240V 3 phase) If you have sufficient voltage at the output of the contactor, you may have an open transformer. Look for hot or burned connections. Good luck!
Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 08-27-2000, 12:29 AM:
If it's the same as ours, the XCN console (configured to run a 4000 watt lamp) has 3 interlock switches; one each in the upper and lower door key lock, and another in the larger door in the back (interlocked with the allen screw.) Also, some models have an "air-flow" vane switch (shuts off the power to the contactor if there's no air flow.) That micro-switch gets dirty, and won't move. Although, if the contactor pulls in, the interlock switches are probably OK.There's a small fuse inside that's special; it's round and looks a little like a transistor. It's on the PC board next to the hour meter (on the inside.) It's part of the ingition system. I'm assuming you already checked the 3AG fuse, and the mechanical circuit breaker (button.)
I usually only change the one diode that went bad; they are not "matched" to each other or anything.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 08-27-2000, 08:51 AM:
For there to be only 3.6 volts on the rectifiers output terminals would require all the diode to have failed not just 1 or 2
Posted by Marc Jones (Member # 29) on 08-27-2000, 02:32 PM:
Here is were I'm at.
1. Check Diodes and found one shorted out and replaced. Output is 3.8Vdc
2. The contactor voltage wise phase to pase checked out OK, but I did notice that it looks like the wiring to contactor has gotten hot, so I'm replacing it Monday.
The console is a 2 Kw unit.
Note one thing that was strange.
I had voltage (115V)from a phase to ground on on all three terminals on the line side, and (115V) on two of the terminals on the load side of the contactor even thought it wasn't energize.
Thanks for the help so far
Marc Jones
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 08-27-2000, 02:35 PM:
Soundslike it is the contactor then
Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 08-28-2000, 08:03 PM:
If it ain't the interlock, diodes or bulb then I'd be looking at the contactor, too.
Posted by Richard Hamilton (Member # 321) on 08-28-2000, 10:02 PM:
Hey Marc,
It's been a couple of years, but I remember having this same problem. It ended up being a fuse that is located near the contactor. It's a glass fuse that is in the lower compartment either beneath the contactor, or behind it(if you're looking at it from the operator side). It was a pain to find because you have to lay down to get to it.I'm confused about what you said about the contactor. You said that the voltage "phase to phase" was O.K., I assume that this means that your getting 110V to ground on all phases of the load side of the contactor? If this is the case, it should not matter that you get any voltage when it's not energized.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 08-29-2000, 10:00 AM:
Actually it is a bit of a safety concern there should be no voltage present on the output side of the contactor when it is unenergized
Posted by Richard Hamilton (Member # 321) on 08-29-2000, 01:02 PM:
I understand the safety issue. What I meant was, when energized, if he is getting 110V on all three phases of the load side, then the contactor is not keeping the bulb from lighting. He may have a different problem with the contactor not disengaging on 2 phases, but that wouldn't keep the bulb from striking. Rick
Posted by Marc Jones (Member # 29) on 08-29-2000, 09:30 PM:
Well I replaced the contactor and nothing,
next I started retracing the wiring and noticed that one of the post that the secondary was tied on to was missing the insulator, replaced and it fires up just fine.
Thanks to all of you for your help to find the solution to my problem.
Best Regards
Marc Jones
Posted by Richard Hamilton (Member # 321) on 08-29-2000, 09:43 PM:
huh??
Posted by Richard Hamilton (Member # 321) on 08-29-2000, 09:47 PM:
next I started retracing the wiring and noticed that one of the post that the secondary was tied on to was missing the insulator, replaced and it fires up just fine.I repeat, "huh??"
Posted by Marc Jones (Member # 29) on 08-30-2000, 05:07 PM:
To clarify:
The metal plate that the six diodes (anode’s) mount on to, there are bolts used as terminals that connect the secondary to the diode’s cathode and the cap. The bolt is insulated on the cap side by a mica disc and through the hole by plastic and on the backside by a nonconductive disc to isolate the terminal.
This nonconductive disc is what my unit was missing, hence a phase of the secondary was shorted out.
I hope this helps clarify it.
Thanks
Marc Jones
Posted by Richard Hamilton (Member # 321) on 08-30-2000, 06:13 PM:
yep! Thanks
Rick
Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 08-31-2000, 11:18 AM:
Is Xetron still putting the IREM power supplies into their consoles, or are they making their own now?
Posted by Marc Jones (Member # 29) on 08-31-2000, 09:29 PM:
So far all the ones that I have are using the Irems, but the newest one is est. 10yrs old.
So I'm no help
Marc Jones
Posted by Sean M. Grimes (Member # 445) on 09-01-2000, 04:25 AM:
John,At least with my three year old XCN consoles they are still the Irem. And I wouldnt have it any other way. Now if I could only get someone to take my ORC lamphouse off my hands 
Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 09-01-2000, 11:36 PM:
Yeah, I always liked the IREM power supplies. I thought they were a "clean" design. Sticking a screwdriver in there to quiet down the transformer laminations always spooked me a bit, but then I got a brass screwdriver.
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 09-02-2000, 01:34 PM:
I once ordered a silencing kit from Kniesley for a 550volt 2.5k rectifier (one of the big old selineum ones
The kit I got was a bunch of finishing nails and a set of instruction to hammer them into the laminations till the noise stoped
I felt my solution was better give the projectionist earplugs
Neither was acceptable so we replaced it