This is topic Projector Cleaning 101 in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Dave Bird (Member # 490) on 09-24-2000, 09:59 AM:
 
How do you clean your projectors? I've been using isoprophyl alcohol with rags, paper towels, even Q-Tips (lots) to get into those really tricky spots. It's working OK, but is the best way simply to take some of the mechanisms off while cleaning? (That's the beauty of having two machines, the other to show me how to put it back together!) What do you guys do? (My machines sat for a few years, a little gunky, buggy, what have you!)

------------------
Dave Bird
 


Posted by Dave Cutler (Member # 515) on 09-24-2000, 10:50 AM:
 
Different theatres require different levels of cleaning, and I clean two different ways. For me there is cleaning and super-cleaning.

Cleaning, would be a quick rub down between shows or at the end of the day, you know, whenever necessary. Could be as simple as wiping down the projector with a rag. I always take out the gate (on a Simplex), and wipe it down that way. If it needs a bit more, I wipe it down with a rag and then I would use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a Webril (100% cotton) wipe. Any surface that the film comes into contact with gets cleaned (and a few others get a quick wipe at the end). I run Film Guard frequently so I don't need to do this between every show. If the print is really shedding, the you have to clean it every show.

Super-Cleaning, is when I strip the projector. With the Simplex's I used to run I would try to do this every couple of months. I cleaned everything, and I do mean everything. I took off anything that I could without haveing to re-align when I put it back in, and cleaned it throughly. Went through a lot of Q-tips when I did this, put it was worth it. The entire projector head, and sound heads would be spotless after this type of cleaning. This was a lot harder to do at a mega-plex, but I didn't have problems getting it done at smaller theatres. I have only done this on a Simplex though.


 


Posted by Mark Huff (Member # 480) on 09-24-2000, 02:07 PM:
 
Cotton in the intermittant?
 
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 09-24-2000, 05:24 PM:
 
What's the general opinion about using compressed air to blow the dust out of the projector/soundhead between shows? (In addition to cleaning the gate/trap area with a rag and the sprockets with a toothbrush)? I've heard reasonable-sounding arguments both for and against using compressed air.
 
Posted by Antonio Marcheselli (Member # 373) on 09-24-2000, 05:34 PM:
 
Hello

I use to clean my two Cinemeccanica V5 MI in this way:

Avery day, before show: clean the gate with someting water-based (I notice that the hard dirt on the gate come out with something like water rather than alchool), clean sound leds (SR/DD/DTS), lenses and sensors with isopropyl alcohol. Since my projs are in good condition and they don't make dirt, I think that daily this is enough.

Once a week I take off the print of the projector, I manually rewind the film cleaning it with a soft cloth and I clean all the parts of projector that touch the print with alchool, isopropyl alchool or water-based product depending what I'm cleaning.

Every few months I make the projector new... I disassembled everything is moving, clean it, put oil if has to rotate and reassemble.

I reach this procedure after few try. My result is very good. Film is always clean and I don't have any type of problem.

Sorry for eventually syntax errors!

Antonio
 


Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 09-24-2000, 08:24 PM:
 
There are good and bad points to using an air hose to clean projectors.

1) You must be VERY careful not to blow the air on or near the lenses or the sound head. You can get a 'sand blaster' effect. (Particles of dirt can etch the glass.) And the condensation in the air stream can get into the lenses, etc.

2) It is possible to blow dirt even deeper into the projector bearings, etc. causing a sortened life span.

3) Okay, so you've carefully blown all the dust out of the projector... Where did it go? It's suspended in the air, waiting to settle back onto something else.

I'd say that a vacuum cleaner is the better choice. Essentially, it's a reverse air compressor and it actually removes the dirt, rather than sending it up into the air.

I'd even recommend that you use a vacuum AND a compressor at the same time; blowing with one and sucking with the other.

All that having been said, I don't think a compressor is a bad idea. I just think you should use it sparingly. You shouldn't use it in place of good old fashioned paintbrush and shop rag cleanings.
 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-25-2000, 01:34 AM:
 
I clean my projectors once a month. All I use is a toothbrush and a shop rag. If the belts (yes, a Christie) are shedding like mad, I'll use paper towels to wipe the majority of the crap out of there first. I've always found a paintbrush to be the most worthless thing in a booth.

Daily I'll make a quick wipe down the gate with the shop rag. That's really all that is needed, and overkill at that. The film cleaner runs every show on every screen, so the prints never shed and the machines never get dirty other than light airborne dust from the HVAC system.
 


Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 09-25-2000, 11:07 AM:
 
I like using compressed air to clean things out. The only suggestion I have it to close the dowser and cap the lenses. I started blowing out V9's I was working with, and a slight oil splatter was getting on the lens... The compressed air was so strong it would blast slight amounts oil out of little nooks, and get on the lens..... took me awhile to figure out where it was comming from....
 
Posted by Dave Cutler (Member # 515) on 09-25-2000, 12:52 PM:
 
Mark, what's wrong with cotton on the intermittent? As long as you make sure you don't leave pieces behind, that is.
 
Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 09-25-2000, 01:11 PM:
 
That 'oil' might be from the compressor itself. It could be either oil (if it's an oil bath type) or condensation from the air. When you compress the air, any water vapor gets compressed too. When it does that it turns into liquid water and appears as a fine stream of 'mist' comming out of the hose.

One possibility is to put an oil / vapor trap on the compressor, last thing on the line before the hose.

Second thing I'd do is make sure you vent the compressor tank EVERY TIME you're done using it. If not the tank will fill up with water, which will (A) be blown out the hose when you use it. and (B) eventually rust the inside of the tank and cause premature failure.
 


Posted by Dave Bird (Member # 490) on 09-26-2000, 06:39 AM:
 
I like the idea of a small vacuum, where would I find such a thing? Also, is the conical shutter idiot-proof? By that, I mean if I take it off, is there only one proper "groove" for it to re-install, or will I have to be careful to get it back on where it was? Reason I ask is that one of the "nubs" holding the shutter on one machine is cracked, probably has been for a long time, but I should replace it I think. My machines are XL's. Thank you.

------------------
Dave Bird
 


Posted by Pat Moore (Member # 380) on 09-26-2000, 07:18 AM:
 
The Simplex shutter does not have a fixed method of reattaching to the shaft. Timing the shutter when you replace it is easy, though. Have you ever done that? Be glad to give a lesson.

As for a "nub" being cracked -- the hub is a split assembly that tightens on the shaft using two screws. Where is the crack? That can happen if those screws are over-tightened.

Pat


 


Posted by Mark Huff (Member # 480) on 09-26-2000, 07:26 AM:
 
The engineer I worked with went psycho if you had anything cotton in the booth. He says that cotton will always be left behind in the intermittent and damage it. Maybe it was just him.
 
Posted by Dave Bird (Member # 490) on 09-26-2000, 12:02 PM:
 
Yes Pat the hub (nub, I was close) appears to have been overtightened, but long ago I'd say. I can't distinguish a part number from my manual, or is it just attached to the shutter itself? No, I've never timed a shutter.

I was using the cotton (to wipe with alcohol)in the FRAMING side, is that a no-no?

Also, what are the differences between a 2-blade and 3-bladed shutter?

Thank you.

------------------
Dave Bird
 


Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 09-26-2000, 02:46 PM:
 
I agree with Randy that using compressed air risks getting dirt, oil, or moisture into areas you don't want them, and usually just "stirs up" the dirt, rather than truly remove it. A small shop vac or good household vacuum can be used. Use flexible vinyl hose to make custom nozzles to get the vacuum into the nooks and crannies of the projector and soundhead. A central vacuum system is ideal, because it doesn't exhaust into the booth. Unless the vaccuum has a "HEPA" rated filter, some dust gets back out into the room.

NEVER clean a running projector, as the risk of injury or jamming the mechanism is too high.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
 


Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 09-26-2000, 03:04 PM:
 
We only used the cans of air ("Dust-Off"), so I'm pretty sure the oil was comming from the projector. I know I said compressed air...but I didn't mean a compresser!

I worked in a booth that had a compressor; I thought it was kinda dumb; it was right in the booth, against the front wall. The thing would start up and make so much noise, I finally shut it off. If it could be mounted somewhere else, that would be OK.

I talked to a fire inspector about putting that compressor in the back room (with pipes to bring it to the projectors) and he got very concerned. He started talking about holes in the wall, risk of explosion if heated during a fire, permits, etc. so I never persued that idea. The place I was working for wanted to remove the compressor to, "save electrical bill costs" so you can see how cheap they were. I knew they didn't want to deal with permits.
 


Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 09-26-2000, 09:15 PM:
 
Again, I don't think you should NEVER use a compressor. I have used them on occasion. I just think that you shouldn't use them instead of a rag and a brush. When you DO use them you should know all the pros and cons so you don't wreck your equipment.

I think canned air is a good idea for that ocasional use. Unless you go crazy with the stuff it can certainly be cheaper than buying a big compressor. (Although Lowe's sells a poratble for less than $100)
 


Posted by Michael West (Member # 428) on 09-26-2000, 10:17 PM:
 
here at our imax theater we often use the compressed air to aid in cleaning our projectors, but we also have filters and such attached to the compressor.
 
Posted by Mike Blakesley (Member # 26) on 09-27-2000, 05:51 PM:
 
I have a small computer vacuum called a "DataVac" which came with a bunch of small sized attachments, perfect for booth use. Cost about 40 bucks from a computer supplies catalog. It is filtered, too.
 
Posted by Jackson Gilman (Member # 2142) on 03-14-2004, 12:33 PM:
 
quote:
here at our imax theater we often use the compressed air to aid in cleaning our projectors, but we also have filters and such attached to the compressor.

Mr. West, what type of filters are you using in your compressors? We have a giant air compressor that supplies compressed air to all 22 of our projectors. Are they located at the tip, where the nozzle is, or at the tank?
 
Posted by Steve Kraus (Member # 476) on 03-14-2004, 05:24 PM:
 
The issue of filtering the air is mostly about if you were to use it to blow dust off the lenses and if done at all (see discussion in another thread) is something better done with the Dust-Off type products.

If air is used for general cleaning it's not the dirt or oil coming with the air that is the issue but the dirt already on the machine being driven into bearings, slit lens tubes etc. That said I don't think it should be a problem if used at very sparing pressure (use both hands to regulate how far the valve lever is depressed) and never too close to the things I've mentioned and try to direct the air to blow dirt up and out.

This IS going to make a mess so make sure your platters are covered and plan on carefully cleaning and vacuuming everything the dirt is going to settle on. Use a paintbrush and vacuum and plenty of Q-Tips first to remove as much dirt as possible and use air only as a last resort for what's left.

A vaccum near where you are blowing will catch some of it right away. Because of the mess this can NEVER be your normal everyday cleaning method but only once every so often to clean with various covers off.
 
Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 03-14-2004, 10:22 PM:
 
This thread ("CO2 to clean projectors...Pro or Con?") is worth a read if you're seriously considering installing compressed air in your booth (blast from the past!...pun intended).

It's not a good plan to rely on using minimal pressure on the blowgun lever; it's much better to install a regulator and set it somewhere between 10 and 20 psi. That way you know all operators are doing the same thing and it's hard to exactly apply too much pressure.

I don't think it takes much for a compressor to be more cost-effective than canned air, though...

--jhawk
 
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-14-2004, 10:28 PM:
 
Using compressed air, even filtered, is the lazy persons method for cleaning a projector. I despise people that are so lazy they have to use compressed air blowing into a projector to get rid of the dust and dirt. All of this dirt will noly end up in the booth, on the film and then back in the projector again. Any cleaning should be done by hand to prevent any dust, dirt, or general crud from getting into the mechanism itself and mixing with the grease and or oil and comtaminating it...especially mechanisms such as a Century or other hand lubricated mechanisms. These projectors are even more likely to have this dirt get into the gear train and such.

Blowing off a lens is an even bigger sin and is the equivelent to sand blasting your lens! A camels hair brush should be used for removing large particles followed up by using lens cleaner and appropriate lens tissue. Also....never clean a lens dry, even using lens tissue.

Mark @ CLACO
 
Posted by Steve Scott (Member # 630) on 03-15-2004, 08:34 AM:
 
What's the attitude on cans of degreaser spray? In the past, I've been told to use those on our Century heads, but just to cover up the opening to the soundhead with some paper towels or shop rags...

We use toothbrushes between every show on the gate and sprockets, and a couple times a year, I use rolls of blue shop rags (the kind that look like paper towels) to really get any dirt out of the head. Otherwise, q-tips and lens cleaner for sound optics, lens paper for the lenses, compressed air for the inside of our CP500's.
 
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 03-15-2004, 09:15 AM:
 
Do NOT spray degreaser, WD-40, or anything else that could get into the bearings or damage components. If you need to wipe up a greasy or oily surface, slightly dampen a clean shop cloth with the degreaser or solvent. And NEVER clean a projector while it is running. [Eek!]
 
Posted by Jackson Gilman (Member # 2142) on 03-15-2004, 01:27 PM:
 
Please don't despise me Mr. Gulbrandsen. I was told to blow out the projectors after each show when I was trained, it's not a matter of me being lazy...probably our engineer! [Wink] I'll start doing it the "right" way from now on.
 
Posted by Brian Michael Weidemann (Member # 2243) on 03-15-2004, 08:21 PM:
 
Since the entire IMAX projector basically runs on air, the compressor runs through an air-dryer and filters. There's a hose mounted right on the side of the projector and it's used to blow out everything, every show (in addition to good ol' 90+% alcohol with Kim-Wipes every morning). That's how I was trained, so I assumed it was perfectly safe. With constant dusting, vacuuming, and PTR's every show, ambient booth dust has never been an issue.
 
Posted by Steve Scott (Member # 630) on 03-16-2004, 08:19 AM:
 
Thanks John, our Facility manager was spending too much on that crap lately, [bs] I'll give it to the ushers to file away in the chemical room.
 
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 03-16-2004, 09:59 AM:
 
Looks like I've caught some of you and your booth supervisors with your pants down [Eek!] . People that blow out machines only risk causing more frequently needed service!

With Imax and other machines that have sealed cam units and little else to be contaminated by dust, blowing them out is not very detrimental except for that expensive $6,000 plus piece of glass known as the field flattner that is getting sand blasted every time the machine is blown out...... [Big Grin]

Mark @ CLACO
 
Posted by Matthew Jaro (Member # 1786) on 03-17-2004, 10:10 AM:
 
Is C-Lube good to use for cleaning rollers or film trap bands? How about sprockets? What should you use to clean the sound head rubber roller (Simplex 5 Star)? Should you use alcohol on Cat 700 reader rollers?

Sometimes a dry cloth or dry toothbrush is not enough. This is especially true for cleaning XL film trap bands where dirt tends to get baked on.
 
Posted by Thomas Procyk (Member # 1170) on 03-18-2004, 09:48 AM:
 
Hmmm. I notice a lot of suggestions here are given with "ideal" conditions in mind. (Film cleaners every showing and competent operators) But if you leave a can of compressed air at each projector with a booth full of kids, you will be buying compressed air every other day.

I was always under the impression to clean "top-down." That way any dirt or debris that fall will eventually make it to the floor as you go along. Then just sweep/mop the floor. Compressed air does the opposite. It sends stuff back UP to land at its convenience... sometimes even on the prints.

The only time I would use compressed air would be to clean the DTS reader (as reccomended) or to blow a piece of debris out of the apeture during a show (used prints) if these lips can't cut it! [Wink]

We have only one film cleaner at our theater and run Cinemeccanica V5s. We get used prints ALL the time (with a few exceptions) so we have to clean the gate and trap rails with a Q-tip and alcohol EVERY show, or dirt will build up and cause focus problems. A few passes through the cleaner with FG and this just about disappears. Then we wipe everything down with a rag and a tiny spritz of alcohol on it.

I disagree with Brad ( [uhoh] ) about the paintbrushes, though. They help to get into the tight spots where things might build up or get missed. The bristles can reach aroud things you don't feel like disassembling every show. They reach things my fingers and a rag can't.

It's hard to find time to thorougly clean the projectors during operating hours when your walkie-talkie is screaming for you to clean theaters. [Frown] That leaves most of the "heavy" cleaning at the end of the night, which nobody else seems to want to be bothered with.

=TMP=
 
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 03-18-2004, 09:56 AM:
 
What's the best way to clean the dust out of arc lamphouses? I
assume that a small vacuum cleaner (with a filter on the exhaust
side) would work well, but the carbon booths I've run only seem
to provide paintbrushes, presumably to be used to sweep the ash
onto the floor (which, hopefully, would then get swept later).
 
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 03-18-2004, 10:04 AM:
 
A small vacuum would be the best option. The ash may contain rare earth elements, so good filtration and a safety dust mask / respirator would be advisable.
 
Posted by Phil Blake (Member # 2012) on 03-27-2004, 10:39 AM:
 
We stick to the basics with cleaning Vic 5's , toothbrush for sprockets , paintbrush for the hard to get to spots and rag with "Mr Sheen" furniture polish to clean the gate and runners , Mr sheen easily removes all build up on the gate and runners.Booth floor is vacuumed not swept.
 
Posted by David M. Dorn (Member # 2298) on 03-27-2004, 04:16 PM:
 
My experience with any opt-mechnical device suggests that compressed air cleaning is not the way to go. You may want to consider using a 3M Service Vac. It's the one used by most photocopier service technicans. It is available with a sub-micron filter, one fine enough to filter copy toneer.
It's not cheap but it is compact and comes with tools for reaching hard to get places, like on a copier (or a projector). Larger specialty tools stores may carry them. Jensen on the internet lists them.
 
Posted by Jackson Gilman (Member # 2142) on 03-30-2004, 02:09 PM:
 
I was told that cleaning out the lenses on the soundhead should be done with cue tips and something with Ammonia-D (like windex), and was also told that it should be done weekly. Wouldn't the cue tips scratch the lens, or are they more durable than the actual projector lenses?
 
Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 03-30-2004, 03:39 PM:
 
I don't see a problem with a Q-Tip being used on the sound lens but I do have a problem using Windex. I would use lens cleaning solution instead.

Just put a drop or two of whatever solution you use for your lenses on the end of the Q-Tip and carefully wipe away the dirt in the same fashion you clean a regular lens, only smaller. Then flip the Q-Tip around and use the other end to dry the lens.

For the solar cell, I would only use a dry Q-Tip and very lightly wipe any dirt off. I think the moisture from the lens cleaning solution would tend to damage the cell. If you use a reverse scan/LED system, maybe just a drop of cleaner would be OK. Just don't overdo it.

As long as the Q-Tips are kept clean in their original package and not contaminated, they shouldn't hurt the lens.
 




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