This is topic Looking for some ORC manuals in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Paul Mayer (Member # 355) on 12-17-2000, 07:28 PM:
Does anyone have manuals for the ORC RPS-2500 lamphouse and power supply? Couldn't find any listings for this model in the "Manuals" section. If anyone would be willing to sell a copy, please contact me off-list.BTW I will be working on a sick 2500 power supply shortly--it shut itself down and won't re-strike. Noticed that the 110V cooling fan wasn't running, yet the fan motor itself is OK (verified by disconnecting the motor leads from the terminal strip and powering the motor externally. Don't want to TS any further without some documentation. Any ORC TS tips or pointers would be most appreciated.
TIA for any assistance!
Paul
Posted by Pat Moore (Member # 380) on 12-17-2000, 08:30 PM:
Paul; you might call our Strong International office for some assistance. Our tech people know that supply fairly well and we may have copies that we can get you. Brad -- that goes for you too, if we have them...I would tend to think this is something fairly simple. Sounds like something in interlock circuirty went bad or is open, and I think that fan runs only when the supply tries to turn on.
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 12-17-2000, 09:08 PM:
I might have a manual on the RPS-2500 manual. If I do, I can run off a copy for you if Pat from Strong International does not have one. Pat Moore is more than likely to be correct on his assessment. I have known him for 17 years now, and he knows what he is talking about. Can you hear the main contactor close in the power supply? If not, something shut it down. Could be your air flow interlock, lamphouse cover interlock, or, if you have a snout interlock, check that, too. By the way, check those fuses in the power supply, one could have blown. Also check to see if you have your 208 or 240 getting to the power supply.
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 12-18-2000, 01:52 AM:
We're always happy to host manuals. If anyone has anything not already in the archives here, please drop me a line. I can work from an existing pdf scan or from a single sided photocopy to do the conversion to pdf format here. 
Posted by Barry Floyd (Member # 385) on 12-18-2000, 07:47 AM:
On the topic of ORC manuals....If anyone happens to have a manual for a 4kw ORC lamphouse, I'm in the need for one as well.
Here's my equipment info:
Lamphouse:
ORC "Orcon Ultra-High Performance Xenon Projector Lamphouse" - Model # 4000
S/N = 40125-1791
Rectifier:
ORC Cine-X35
Model RPS-X60
S/N = 71-569287
If anyone happens to have any information on either of these units, I'd appreciate it.
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 12-18-2000, 05:58 PM:
Paul, I was in error when I said I thought I had a manual for that beast. I don't. But, I did trip over two of those power supplies just like you have when I walking through the "out of service" room.
Posted by Paul Mayer (Member # 355) on 12-18-2000, 07:29 PM:
Thank you all for the pointers. I'll give Strong a call on my lunch break tomorrow. Yeah, I checked all of the easy stuff first and was able to verify good fuses and mains feeds. Next time I'm in the shop I'll try listening for the contactor. When I get the manual(s) it'll be reading time.
BTW, do any of you have recommendations on who to go to (in SoCal) for buying xenon bulbs? So far, the card shows 1400 hours on the #1 lamp and I haven't found the card yet for the #2. I don't have any spares so it looks like I'll be needing at least a pair of Osram XBO 1600W HSCOFR's (the installed ones are HSOFR's).
Oh, one last Q. Does anyone sell just the protective packaging for these bulbs? I haven't been able to find any of the packaging for the presently installed ones.
Thanks again for your answers!
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 12-18-2000, 09:02 PM:
Paul, if your contactor closes, I think you will find all your interlocks in the lamp are ok. The contactor has to close before the cooling fan starts, unless someone wired it differently. If the contactor does close, there may be a problem downstream, such as a burned wire, etc. There is nothing that I know of (including the regulator bank with those extremely expensive power transistors) in that power supply that will prevent that contactor from closing, other than the selnoid of the contactor itself, defective wiring to the selonoid, or the external circuits such as your interlock/automation loop. Did you actually check all three fuses with an ohm meter? Sometimes they look good, but in fact, they are not. I would be leery of that big fuse. The fuse element(s) may have disconnected itself from the end cap, and you might not see it. Had this happen to me more than once.
Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 12-18-2000, 09:06 PM:
By the way, I tried to download the manual, "Cinemecannica V5 regular maintenance and special maintenance" but get a, "URL not found error."Brad, any chance you could fix that next time you're in "maintaince mood mode?"
No rush, though.....
Posted by Paul Mayer (Member # 355) on 12-18-2000, 10:13 PM:
Yup, I've had that happen to me too, so I pulled all the fuses and checked 'em with the Fluke. Thanks for the info on the contactor and the interlocks--it'll give me a little more to go on when I get back to the shop (probably not until the weekend). And hopefully I'll have some manuals to work with by then as well.Cheers!
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 12-18-2000, 10:29 PM:
The link to the V5 manual is fixed. Sometimes I can be a little lysdexic when I type those file names in. 
Posted by Paul Mayer (Member # 355) on 12-20-2000, 06:40 PM:
Well they tried, but it looks like Strong Int'l doesn't have any copies of those manuals. So I'll ask again. If anyone would be willing to sell me a copy of the manuals for the ORC RPS-2500 lamphouse and power supply, please contact me at
pmayer@panamsat.comI'll pay good money! Really! TIA!
Paul
Who is now also nursing a sick Apex DVD machine that plays s-video only in glorious B&W.
Which is fine for "Dr. Strangelove", not so good for Studio Ghibli anime.
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 12-20-2000, 08:34 PM:
Paul, check your email. I provided you with a company name and phone number that has one. The book is 3/8 of an inch thick, but he can fax/pdf (or whatever) critical pages you need to troubleshoot the thing.
Posted by John Eickhof (Member # 323) on 12-20-2000, 11:45 PM:
I have manuals for most all of the ORC stuff if you don't get what you need from the previous post, email me, I will be glad to foto-copy what you need and mail it too you!
Happy holidays! John
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 12-21-2000, 06:40 PM:
Paul, I was incorrect when I said "There is nothing that I know of (including the regulator bank with those extremely expensive power transistors) in that power supply that will prevent that contactor from closing, other than the selnoid of the contactor itself..." There is! It is a temperature sensing device in series with a "W" with a circle around it, and I presume it is the main contactor. With the cannon plug disconnected, check and see if you have a resistance between TB-2 Terminal 1 and TB-2 Terminal 2. If you have an open circuit, the temperature device may be open. I have a BIG jpeg I'll send to you via email.
Posted by Sean McKinnon (Member # 612) on 12-22-2000, 12:49 AM:
This is kind of off topic but if youre DVD player is only playing black and white through the Y/C connection (S-Video) Then you probably need a new Y/c Cable or jack. The reason that a y/c connection looks better than a standars RF is that it seperates the Luminace (Black and white) and the Chrominance (color) information and sends them through the cable seperately it sounds as if only half the information is making it where it needs to go ------------------
I love to smoke I smoke seventhousand packs a day and I'm never F*&ing quittin!-- Denis Leary
Posted by Paul Mayer (Member # 355) on 01-11-2001, 10:40 PM:
Wow. I go away for a couple of weeks (no email, no computer, no worries) and look at what happens! Thanks guys for the posts!For those that offered manuals, "Thank you" and I'll be contacting you off-list shortly.
BTW during the hiatus I did manage to get that Apex DVD machine playing in color again through the judicious application of some heat sinks and additional vent holes...
Posted by Paul Mayer (Member # 355) on 02-05-2001, 10:12 PM:
My thanks to Paul Thompson for supplying jpegs of the schematics for the lamp and the power supply. Still hoping someone will come through with a complete manual though. For one thing I don't know the recommended reflector to film-plane distance for this beast. Ditto for adjustment procedures for any of the internal pots in the power supply.I've been able to do some further checking and the symptoms have changed somewhat. After blowing out the p/s (pneumatically, not electrically 
) and doing some tightening of connections and such, the fans came up upon power up. With this p/s (#1) connected to its original lamphouse (#1), the lamp would strike, but only manually for the first strike. Auto-strike worked after that first manual strike. Alas, the lamp shut itself off after about seven minutes of operation. We could manually re-strike it, but the lamp killed itself again within a minute or two. The fans were still operating.
I then connected the #1 p/s to the #2 lamp. Voila! This combination ran just fine. So it looks to me that the problem lies within the #1 lamphouse instead of the #1 p/s. Ran out of time at that point--will be back to attack next weekend.
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 02-05-2001, 11:10 PM:
Paul, You just might have a goofy bulb. PS - the adjustment pot on the front of the power supply is a current adjustment. Just give 'er a crank to adjust your bulb current. If it does not respond, something in your regulator bank is screwed up.
I think if you used the distance to the film plane that is specified in the XH-16 or XH-30 lamp manuals, it would be very close. The lamphouses are the same length as the 2500 lamphouse. If you are using that real short lamphouse, (I forgot the Model No) it still should be OK as it has a concave dichloroic filter in it. Just shove it up against the shutter schroud, and it should work ok.