Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Ironing wrinkles&creases from film

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Posted by Matthew Bailey (Member # 601) on 12-21-2000, 01:47 PM:

I have heard that if a print becomes
wrinkled or creased it is either returned
or discarded. However I have a tip on
repairing film with such damage.
I use an iron on the polyester or acetate
setting depending upon the film base
and place it between two paper sheets
to prevent the iron from scratching the
film. WARNING:NEVER IRON NITRATE FILM!

Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 12-21-2000, 02:17 PM:

The only thing I've ever done is to put the offending reel(s) of film on the rewinder at the highest tension setting you dare to use. After you rewind the film back and forth a couple of times a lot of the wrinkles and creases will sort of smooth out.

What doesn't come out when you do that probably won't come out at all. The only solution would be to get a new print.

I have done this on a couple occasions. One time the damage (from a minor wrap) wasn't too awful and we were able to get that section of film to play pretty steadily. (Compared to what it WAS.) Another time, somebody "roped" a print and there was nothing that could be done. Luckily, it was on a Wednesday when it happened so it only had to play for another day. (Well, lucky for US, anyway.)

Mind you, I would use this only as a last resort because it might cause "cinch marks",etc. in the film. I'd say do it only when the chances of making it better outweigh the chances of making it worse.
(In other words, you have a "Hobson's Choice" on your hands.)

As to IRONING OUT the creases, I'd have to see it done on some scrap film first. I can imagine all sorts of problems happening. Least of which is blistering the S*** out of the emulsion.

When I took photography classes in college, I was dry-mounting some prints. I was using "resin-based" print paper and there was another guy who was using "photo linen" He turned the temp on the mounting press way up so he could mount his prints but he didn't turn it back when he was done. When I put my prints in the press they came out so badly blistered you could PEEL the emulsion off the paper. (No, John P., it was Ilford. Had it been Kodak they might have survived.)

Don't worry, I got him back when I "forgot" to close the darkroom door!

Posted by David Hitt (Member # 294) on 12-22-2000, 12:34 PM:

I've thought about the same thing you have, but for a different purpose: restoring pulled sprocket holes in polyester stock. I've yet to give it a try, but will in the next few weeks. If I'm successful, I'll post the results here.

David

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 12-27-2000, 01:42 PM:

Polyester base will melt or char if heated more than about 180C / 356F. But the "glass transition" temperature where it loses it's crystallinity (and any "memory" of stretching or core-set) is about 90C / 195F. Gelatin emulsion can withstand BRIEF heating up to about 150C / 302F. So "ironing out" wrinkles or core-set may work with an iron between 90C (195F) and 150C (302F). But I certainly would try it out first, and NOT use it for a valuable print, or one that I did not own! In short, ironing film is NOT officially recommended, and may "put you in hot water" if the film is not yours to ruin.

Cellulose triacetate film will char if heated too hot, and the ironing technique is unlikely to work before damaging the base.

I agree, NEVER heat nitrate film!!! It can ignite at relatively low temperatures, especially if it is starting to decompose.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com