All you need is a full roll of splicing tape or one of the large trailer cores. Not the ones used for feature film cores or the tiny trailer cores.
All you have to do is after you have started the film and the film is running up to speed is place the roll or core into the brain between the little black stopper and the control fingers so the fingers only open up so far. This will help prevent the film from being pulled in between the large roller and the control fingers during a static situation. It does not scratch anything and I have not had any problems with the platter running to slow. If anything I think the platter runs more smoothly.
One note though, Do not use this method if you are interlocking because the takeup is not being used. one platter does not run full speed on a speco when the takeup is not being used.
With the above method and the payout failsafes I installed a year and a half ago static brainwraps are almost a thing of the past at my theater.
As a passing note for the Christie Autowind people, I have seen one instance where the excessive head room was caused by stray light sneaking into the modules because someone left a screw out to facilitate a quick module change. (Minot, North Dakota) A test would be if you had a very dimly lit booth. Does it still work properly? If the platter operating characteristics seemed to have changed, it is well worth investigating.
Take a piece of masking tape and double it up to prevent any sticky from showing and make crimp marks about every 1/8 th inch or so.
Attach it to the payout and the first roller to the right of the payout as if you are right in front of it. The crimping allows the arm to fully function and the tape helps prevent the double feeds associated with a wrap.
This was a very helpful solution during our run of SW-EP1 as Film Guard was unavailable then.
They have been using the roll of splicing tape in the payout arm trick for a while now.
They have also come up with this little jewel to keep the film from double-feeding and getting caught up in the brain rollers...
I thought it was a pretty cute idea.
I've used the splicing tape thing before, too, but only when the PC card was shot and needed to be replaced (and my spare was being used!). (In "run" mode there was no speed control: on or off!)

Even though Kodak VISION Color Print film has a conductive antistatic backing, the film must be in contact with a conductive surface so there is a path to ground for any static buildup. Non-conductive painted, plastic or anodized platters and rollers should be periodically treated with a topical conductive antistat like "Static Guard", "Endust for Electronics", "ACL Staticide", or other antistat used for clothing or electronics. AFAIK, Kelmar now sells a conductive "Platter Mat", similar in concept to the conductive floor mats used in electronics assembly areas to prevent buildup of static charge from "zapping" sensitive electronic components. Kinetronics, Meech and Simco sell static control equipment like conductive fiber brushes and antistatic ionizers.
Maintaining the recommended 50-60 percent humidity in the projection room also helps reduce the static problems caused by dry winter heat.
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com