This is topic Projection Port Glass Cleaning. in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Robert Maar (Member # 578) on 01-21-2001, 10:57 AM:
 
Have you ever noticed how dirty the projection port glass looks from the auditorium side, when the projector is running.

Does anyone have a solution for keeping this glass clean.
 


Posted by Darryl Spicer (Member # 711) on 01-21-2001, 11:32 AM:
 
If you can reach the other side. Use some glass cleaner and paper towels.
 
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 01-21-2001, 01:11 PM:
 
Get yourself lens cleaner, McDonald's napkins and a small 2x4 inch sanding block from a hardware store. Using 3-4 napkins at a time, wrap them on the sanding side of the block and douse the napkins fairly generously with lens cleaner. Wipe the inside of the glass with medium pressure (nothing strenuous) in a vertical motion. Then IMMEDIATELY take a few more napkins and lay them on the sanding block and press HARD on the glass to wipe it dry, again using vertical strokes. Repeat this procedure for the auditorium side, but wipe this one in a horizintal fashion. Then turn on the projector and xenon with no film in the projector and take a look at your glass. If you see any vertical streaks, they are on the inside of the glass and you can generally touch them up with a dry napkin. If the streaks are horizontal, they are on the outside of the glass and again you can generally fix it with a dry napkin.

There's just something about those McDonald's napkins that works wonders on optical glass. However you must have the sanding block to do a good job. Don't try and use other kinds of napkins, as McDonald's has the only good ones for this job. The lens cleaner will get off that baked on cheap glass cleaner residue. When you are done, you will not be able to tell there is glass in the window frame.

Oh yes, since this topic is in regards to film projection, I am moving it to the Film Handler's Forum.


 


Posted by Jerry Chase (Member # 660) on 01-21-2001, 02:39 PM:
 
So, uh, Brad? Are there McDonald's napkins in the secret ingredients of Film-guard?
Or is it Micky D's french fry oil, which would probably be better at cleaning film than cooking fries? (PS, if we're going to talk about McDonalds, you really need to add a smilie that barfs)

BTW, Kim-wipes are lint free cleaning tissues that work well cleaning port glass.
 


Posted by Pete Lawrence (Member # 130) on 01-21-2001, 03:01 PM:
 
I'll take a Big Mac, large fries, a Coke, and a case of napkins, please!
 
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 01-21-2001, 03:47 PM:
 
Jerry, don't tell anyone, but it's their special secret sauce on the Big Mac's that makes FG work so well.

Seriously though, next time you're there grab a stack of their napkins. You'll be amazed!
 


Posted by Daryl Lund (Member # 356) on 01-21-2001, 04:43 PM:
 
What kind of glass schould you use? I think I still have the 1938 window glass.
 
Posted by Robert Maar (Member # 578) on 01-21-2001, 05:35 PM:
 
Thanks Brad for the creative advice. This problem has been a source of irritation for many moons. I will give your solution a try. I have tried many ways to eliminate the streaks with minor success. Someday you will have to tell me how you came upon this formula.
 
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 01-21-2001, 05:56 PM:
 
The "right" kind of glass would be some kind of fancy coated optical glass. You don't want to know what this costs.

I've had the same problem with scratched plexiglass ports. My solution was to go to a glass store and buy four 13.5" square (for 12" square ports) pieces of picture-frame glass. Total cost was about $7. You really only need to replace the ports in front of the projector lenses, but I like to be able to have a clear view of the screen for focusing.

I will add that this was the best $7 I ever spent on booth supplies (since I was working for people who were too cheap to reimburse me for such things)... There was a big improvement in brightness and sharpness--much more than I would have expected, given the Kollmorgen Super Snaplites we were using.

Optical glass would be better, of course, but that's expensive and hard to find and maybe not really worthwhile unless you have ISCO or Schneider lenses (or anything else that's similarly good).
 


Posted by Jerry Chase (Member # 660) on 01-21-2001, 10:18 PM:
 
Scott, I have two panes of 5" x 7" twin polished optically flat glass that I purchased from Edmund Scientific years ago.

I put two similar pieces in an old booth, and to be frank, I didn't notice any earth shattering difference from the plain float glass that was being used. I suspect that a coated glass would be an improvement, but I remember doing some calcs about that time and being amazed at how forgiving the projected beam was even a foot or so out of the lens, and how plexiglas had a lower refractive index and (if flat) made a better choice than glass. (John P. do you have any references?)

I 'spoze I should sell the glass. It has been cluttering a shelf for over 25 years (still in the original manila envelopes).

 


Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 01-21-2001, 11:18 PM:
 
Port glass cleaning has been a thorn in my side from day one!

I've tried everything I could think of...

Denatured Alcohol. -- Dissolves the dirt but it dries too fast before you can completely remove the dirt and leaves residue.

Lens cleaner. -- Didn't dissolve the dirt well enough. (But I will try again, using Brad's "secret weapon")

Isopropyl Alcohol. -- The common garden variety (70% or 90%) does okay but you have to work fast or it'll dry up too. Then the alcohol dries faster than the water and that leaves streaks if you don't dry it up before the alcohol is gone.

Pure, "anhydrous" isopropyl alcohol. -- See denatured alcohol, above.

Various "industrial" cleaner/degreasers, like "carbon-tet", tricloroethane, acetone... you name it. -- I tried a small patch in one corner, first. I just took one look and quit. It makes it worse. Just don't go there! I don't even know why I tried, except out of desperation. (How did I get my hands on that kind of stuff? Don't ask questions that'll get somebody into trouble, okay.)


The only thing that I have found that does a half-decent job is Windex®. Not Glass Plus. Not "lemon-scented... Not "no-drip"... Not "potpourri fresh"... Just plain, old-fashioned, ordinary Windex-with-a-"W".... Windex!

I found that you must use the MINIMUM amount to wet the window. Maybe even just one squirt if that's all you need. Any more and you just make a big mess. Spread the liquid evenly over the window with the first paper towel. Flip it over and wipe it clean, then get another DRY paper towel and WIPE LIKE HELL until it's completely dry!

This is the only thing that I have tried that even does a "passable" job, but you have to work up a sweat to do it right. Do that every day for a week in a 17-screener and you can loose some weight!

It's a breath of fresh air to hear of this solution! You can bet that tomorrow, on my way to my next theatre, I'm going to Mickey-D's and then to Sears!

I haven't darkened the doorstep of a Mickey-D's in such a long time I can't even remember. The food down South is so good I'd probably hurl from the crap.

I guess everybody has to "Take one for the team" every once in a while!
 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 01-21-2001, 11:35 PM:
 
Remember to follow the instructions specifically. Do NOT spray the lens cleaner onto the glass. Spray (drip) the lens cleaner liberally onto the multiple layers of McDonald's napkins and THEN wipe the glass with light pressure on the wet napkins and then hard pressure with the dry napkins. You will also need one of those 2x4" sanding blocks to do it right. Also, do not blast the xenon lamp through the glass until you have thouroughly wiped it all dry or you will "burn" it onto the glass from the heat and have to clean it again.

F.Y.I. I've always used Rosco lens cleaner, but my preference is Kodak for personal use. Unfortunately the Kodak stuff is more expensive and most theaters will not buy it.
 


Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 01-22-2001, 07:29 AM:
 
Optical quality port glass with anti-reflection coatings will produce the best contrast and have the least light loss. If you can easily "watch the movie" on the port glass, it is a "contrast killer" for the image on the screen:
http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/motion/newsletters/reel/december99/pytlak.shtml
http://www.cssinc.com/CSS_pro_glass.htm
http://www.cinemaequipmentsales.com/dolby9.html
http://goldbergbrothers.uswestdex.com/

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
 


Posted by Jerry Chase (Member # 660) on 01-22-2001, 12:52 PM:
 
The note on Windex reminded me <doh!> I did some tests on various glass cleaners a few years back, because we were entering into a yearly contract with a janitorial supplier.

I smeared glass with popcorn oil, dust, dirt, etc. then cleaned the glass with various cleaners and did a side by side comparison of the results.

IIRC I tried about a dozen types of glass cleaners, ammonia, iso alcohol, wiping with newspaper, wiping with paper towels, etc.

The best product _by far_ was the aerosol can of "Misty" glass cleaner by Amrep, out of Atlanta. The reputation of the product predated my test by a number of years. I remember Cowboy of P&W complaining that Misty shouldn't be sprayed inside projectors, long before I knew what or who "Misty" was. I'm sure Misty would rip the coating off lenses, so I see Cowboy's point.

BTW, if you want to have some fun with customers, do a glass cleaner test like I did, by smearing crud on the front doors of the lobby in the middle of the day. You'll get some interesting double takes and comments.


 


Posted by Tom Sauter (Member # 616) on 01-22-2001, 03:06 PM:
 
Between theatre jobs I've occasionally worked as a window cleaner and used 2 different methods. I hope I can add Brad's suggetion to my repertoire!

1) Bounty and Windex (no substitutions)

2) 1 cup vinegar : 1 gallon water , squeegee dry and mop up the runoff

Optical glass can look really good, just don't go for the double-paned soundproof crap they put in my booth! Its quite a maneuver to clean between the pains (sic) .
 


Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 01-22-2001, 06:17 PM:
 
I use hot water and a car window washing squeeze and find that the best
I usually order my port glass from GlassFab in Rochester NY
 
Posted by Aaron Sisemore (Member # 145) on 01-22-2001, 08:46 PM:
 
Another source would be Optical Coating Lab:
http://ocli.com

The portglass for the Phoenix and a few other theatres i have worked with came from there.

Aaron


 


Posted by Mark Ogden (Member # 43) on 01-22-2001, 10:19 PM:
 
Let me recommend a few glass cleaning products that I have used to good result: We used to use a great product called "Clear-Vue" that was a homebrew from some plate glass company in New England. Absolutly would not streak at all, and got off the schmootz that Windex left behind. You used to be able to buy in bulk at Costco, but it's vanished from the shelves (although I hear that it's now known as Turtle Wax Auto Glass Cleaner which I assume is available at your local auto supply). Apart from that, I picked up a can of something called Sprayway at Restoration Hardware not long ago, and it really went to town, it's a kind of foam stuff and again it left no streaks at all (and it also did a helluva job on my windshield too). Cool!
By the way, try a trick I was shown in my apprentice card days: if you can't get to McDonald's to boost their napkins, try using wadded up newspaper as your wiping material. It sounds unlikely, but it works fine, and no lint!


 


Posted by Michael Barry (Member # 237) on 01-28-2001, 09:08 AM:
 
OK, got the napkins from Micky D's!
Next, I need to get the sanding block. Hopefully, there will be some lens cleaner already at work. I'll let you know how it goes!

By the way, I'm wondering whether the napkins are the same at every McDonald's around the world. Ours have a checkerboard pattern with the 'M' logo on it. Very smooth. Is it a match? (Wish I had a digital camera!).

The idea of going vertically on one side and horizontally on the other is very innovative. Got to hand it to you, Brad!
 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 01-28-2001, 04:14 PM:
 
Yes, the Mickey D napkins are very much standardized throughout the chain.
 
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 01-28-2001, 05:47 PM:
 
The better quality glass really does make a difference. The biggest jump is from plain glass shop plate to something near optical quality. The regular plate glass is way too green. Look at the glass on the edge, if it is green, so will be your picture. Of course, there is a point of diminishing returns of getting lens quality glass.

Next, the optical coatings really do work and are a benefit in many ways. First you don't waste as much light on the glass and more goes through. With double ports this also helps keep multiple images down.

Double ports should become the standard. A single pain just isn't enough to keep the film noise down. The better designed ports make cleaning both pieces quite easy from within the booth (no ladders).

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
 


Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 01-28-2001, 06:01 PM:
 
What's your favorite port, Steve?
 
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 02-02-2001, 09:13 PM:
 
This might sound stupid, but you are not going to be able to clean a porthole glass with a dirty rag or dirty hand towel. It is amazing how many people I have seen pick up a dirty rag or a dirty hand towel and attempt the impossible. Yeah - they are the same ones that use toilet paper, their "T" shirt, and hand towels to clean their lenses with, too.


 


Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 02-02-2001, 09:34 PM:
 
So what do people use to clean lenses, then?

I have used lens paper and Kodak lens cleaner (which can be purchased in camera stores) and have been happy with this method. This is the same way I clean the lenses for my still camera as well. Is there anything else that is more effective? (Yes, I know not to clean lenses more often than necessary...)

I like the McDonalds' napkins idea for port glass. I've used paper towels in the past with mixed results.
 
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 02-02-2001, 09:42 PM:
 
Scott, Lense tissue works for lenses and is the only thing to use. Toilet paper works great for "something else" Toilet paper is too course and will scratch the lense coatings. I hope you didn't read me wrong.

Of course, you are correct by not cleaning a lense any more than necessary.

Oh, by the way - when I clean lenses, I use two or three thicknesses so that any oil that may be on my fingers will not soak through and get on the lense, especially if I have to use lense cleaning fluid. Some may think it is a waste, but I don't.

I haven't used the McDonald's napkins yet, but I have used those brown paper towels first with rubbing alcohol, followed up with dry towels. Lots of wiping to do, but the results were very good.



 


Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 02-03-2001, 12:18 AM:
 
I have always gathered up all four corners of the tissue without touching the center of the paper and made a litte "puff" out of it by lightly twisting the corners together. Then I use the twisted part like a little handle. Ususally I use two sheets per puff just for extra "substance".
 




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