1. There is a drain plug underneath the sight glass in the front of the machine, unless you have the Millenium.

2. How much oil depends on how large the elevation or depression angle the machine is set to. Just add oil until it starts running out the main drive shaft. Put a cookie tin or something under the machine to keep it from spilling all over the floor. Let it settle over night, and the next day make sure the vacuum lock on the sight glass is released. When the oil settles in the sight glass, move the ring just a little below the oil level (about to 1/8 inch or so...) It should be just about the right. When the machine is run and comes up to operating temperature, some oil may leak out the main drive after the machine is shut down for a few minutes because of oil expansion.

That's why I mentioned to move the ring slightly below the level. By the end of the day, it should be apparent how much oil the machine wants to stay happy. A slight drop in the oil level in the sight glass can be expected, but will then level very close to the ring position.

3. For all practical purposes, draining the intermittent cannot be done without removing the unit from the machine. The screws holding the star wheel and shaft casting to the main body do not go all the way through into the intermittent oil reservoir.

About the only way I know how to drain the oil in the movement is to remove it from the machine and dump it upside down. Unless the oil is extremely grungy, it might not be necessary to do that. If the oil is extremely grungy, the movement should be dismantled and cleaned by someone who is completely familiar with intermittent movements. Otherwise, leave it alone.

If the oil is drained from the movement, I would recommend that oil be added by squirting it into the holes in the movement casting. Their location is at the very top of the little "compartment" underneath the main casting lip where the driving gear is located. The holes might be hard to see. There are two holes about 1/8 inch diameter. If the movement is orentiated so the driving gear is at right angles with the deck, the serial number of the movement can be easily read. The holes are slightly to the right, and down about a 1/2 inch or so from the last digit of the serial number. I am basing this information on a movement I have setting along side my keyboard. The actual placement may vary from movement to movement, with respect to the last digit of the serial number.

I would also recommend removal of the sump screen to make sure it is clean. It is necessary to remove the oil pump to do this. After it is determined that the screen is clean, as well as the projector bildge, then re-install the screen and oil pump assy.

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN RE-INSTALLING THE OIL PUMP! The oil tube nut can be very easily cross-threaded when it is re-connected. If it is accidently cross-threaded, the pump casting will be ruined, and small metal particles will start circulating in the oil bath, which could ruin other things, including the intermittent movement.

A good rule of thumb is this: If it can't be threaded on with light finger pressure, it is in danger of being cross-threaded.

4. How often to give the Simplex XL an oil change depends on the enviroment the machine is running under, and what kind of shape the machine is in. Some people change it every 6 months. Some never change it until it is too late. Some people go by the number of hours of operation. I changed mine about once a year. I honestly forgot what the manual recommends. Maybe some of the other guys can provide a little better figure on that. Just remember oil is cheap as compared to the damage done by not changing it.

I am not fully familiar with the manual for our projectors (Cinemeccanica Vic 5s) because the only copy I have is in Italian, which I can't read. After having shown it to someone who can, I am told that they recommend a six-month interval for oil and annually for belts. We do both every three months and I can sure you can see the benefit in improved picture stability (obviously this is less of an issue with projectors that are not 'rubber band machines', i.e. belt-driven).
 

Jon- Our projectors really don't leak too much oil. I can place a soda cup underneath them and maybe catch a half cup in a month.Thanks for everybodies advice on this subject matter. My Simplex manual doesn't mention oil changes.
 

My car's owners manual specifies every THREE THOUSAND miles! You get (factory spec) twenty thousand!!!?

Oh well, we run Pro 35s so we have to drain the oil every time we do anything to them!

At least it changes the oil! Besides, as Greg Pauley said earlier, once you get the hang of them, their pretty reliable.

If memory serves, you should add oil to the XL until you can see a steady stream pouring into the intermittent. Personal experience tells me that you WILL need a paint tray under the projector.

I'll admit that I am young, but I've never met a Simplex that didn't leak "somewheres".

Russ
 

The XL does not take much oil. 2 quarts should last you a long time.

Paul, I don't believe we have any Texaco dealers in our area (WI) anymore. But, I will check. Is this the same stuff that one would get if buying Simplex oil? It certainly would be cheaper to pick it up in Milwaukee than have it shipped from a supplier. Thanks again for taking the time to fill me in on this task. Why, its like having a Tech Rep at my side!
 

Mark: No, my car's more like the one John Cleese assaults with a tree-trunk in 'Fawlty Towers'...
 

WD-40 is something I wouldn't use inside a projector. Used prudently on certain non-critical, external parts it's OK but if it's overused it can gunk up on you. Honestly, I wouldn't use anything inside a projector other than the "original" oil specified by the mfg. (or a substitute specified by the mfg.) I even had reservations when I read those posts about using Marvel Mystery Oil. I'd have to see it in action myself before I made up my mind. I know some of you guys swear by it but I rather not end up swearing AT it.
I saw the list prices for new projection equipment when I started this job and I was shocked when I saw some of them... $15,000 for a brand new Simplex Millennium! NO WAY am I going to F*** around with THAT kind of scratch!

That stuff was made for specific purposes, and projection equipment was not one of them.

The only thing on the inside of the projector that I use it for is cleaning out the screen (Simplex Millenium, 1060, etc....).

I know the Simplex manual says not to use substitues, but I'm sure they charge an arm and a leg for their oil. We currently use generic oil of the same weight. What do you guys think about that?

The cost effective way to change the oil is to keep tabs on it, when it starts to turn dark or milky it's time to change it, on new machines it will become dark pretty quick from the black of the internal parts, on older machines it turns "non clear" or milky. It's also a good idea to clean the mesh on the pickup tube, it will clog up from time to time.
 

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