I took them apart and cleaned them all up then reassembled what I could. I know that the "base plate" and the "punch pins" are matched sets that can't be mixed up. I also know that they only go back toghether ONE WAY. After a bit of tinkering I have figured out how to align these parts and get them working right.

The last thing that eludes me is how to align the razor blades so they shave off the tape even with the edge of the film without cutting a notch into it.

Anybody have any tricks they want to share?

PS: If you "kids" out there who think you know everything want a good reason NOT to tinker with stuff, just come over to my place and take a look at all the parts I have to throw away because some little PIPSQUEAK like YOU decided to tear a splicer apart and couldn't get it back together! -- If I catch you taking something apart like this, I SWEAR I'm going to THROTTLE you!
 

Take a screw driver and stick it between the blade holder and the punch assembly. Adjust the blade holder outward until you achieve an even cut. If it goes out too far just tap it in with the handle of the screw driver. this should be all you have to do.
 

I know some people are going to say, "AAAaaagh!!!!! NOOOOooooo!!!", when I say this but on the last one I just adjusted I put Lock-Tite® on the screws to keep people from "adjusting" things.

Honestly, it's not a "hard" job. I actually like fixing splicers sometimes. But when people tear them apart as fast as I can put them back together I start loosing my patience.
 

I know this sounds strange, but when you tighten those 4 screws, sometimes it needs to be done in a sequence. I forget now, but either tighten the two outside screws first, then the inside, or visa versa.

There are two screws for each side for the thing that holds the side cutting razors. As far as I know, there's no trick for it; you just have to fiddle with (and test on scrap film) until it's right.
 

The splicer is a projectionist's friend If he miss treats it he has no business hanging around with it.
 

This is the "easy" part. It's just getting those blades lined up so they'll cut the tape properly. It takes me about a half-dozen tries to do it but I can get it eventually. I've tried a couple of ways to determine "landmarks" for aligning them but I haven't had much success. I'm still doing it by trial and error.

To be honest, I'm not very proud to admit that I know so much about fixing splicers. It's kinda' like admitting that you have screwed them up in the first place. (Even though I'm only doing it because of some other bone head's screw-ups) Until recently, I didn't really know how to assemble a splicer from scratch because I'd never seen one taken apart.
 

I understand your frustration with "tinkerers" but sometimes if a person knows what they are doing a little tinkering isnt bad. I had automation that wouldnt close my dowsers, so the manager and I "tinkered" with it and got it to work. We added a relay connected to the cue detector and the manual dowser switch. and now it works! Btw, our tech said there was no way to make the automation close the dowser
 

Sean; It's true that by tinkering a person can fix and learn alot.

But, don't forget that a service tech may have to repair that automation many years from now, long after you have left the company. If there's no schematic diagram showing what was added and how it was done, it could make it harder.

I am guilty of adding parts myself (big time!) But, when I did it, our company only had 20 screens or so, and we had the same service guy. Now that we are approching 200 screens and use several different service people across 6 states, anything other than a "out of the box standard install" would seriously add to maintaince costs.
 

Yesterday, I made a demonstration of a splice with one of those brand new beaver-tailed $150.00 sledgehammer specials, as compared to a fifteen year old Neumade splicer with dull blades.

There was no comparison. The Neumade splicer beat that new splicer hands down.

Good quality splicers are very expensive. In the long run, they will outlast the El Cheapos probably 15 to 1 or more.

After a year or so, the El Cheapos are ready for the trash can, and the high quality splicers will just keep on going.

Of course, like any precision product, it must be properly taken care of.

A rule of thumb to emphasize Randy's point - don't try to fix something that doesn't need fixing!

At the shop, they go into a large box.

On those mornings when it has taken me four times the normal to get to work, due to inclement weather, and I have the choice of driving through the perils of ice-rain, mountainous snow, or holiday traffic out to a service call, or the option of sending a junior technician out on the call, I sit there, a hot coffee on the bench, a cigarette burning yet another notch into the work surface, turn on the radio, roar with laughter at the traffic reports, pull up the box and happily repair these splicers.

The really good one I'm keeping for myself when I have to make up film or something. When somebody hands me a busted up splicer that has been flung off a platter I'll give them the other one and take the busted one home.

It's just that some days I seem to have more splicers comming IN than going OUT