Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Spilcer Cleaning

This is topic Spilcer Cleaning in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Jason Black (Member # 684) on 05-12-2001, 01:34 AM:

Ya know, one of the biggest problems I have in my booth is keeping the splicers clean so that they make a clean/sharp cut on the splice tape. The actual film cutting arm does fine, but that damn tape cutter, that's another story. If you take them apart, they NEVER cut properly again, or from my experience anyway... Anyone have any helpful suggestions/tips for me to pass along to my booth guys?

There's no need to have to splice and re-splice... And who wants to hear that god awful sound drum pop from a stiff/rough splice????

BTW, I'm using a CPI economy splicer, a Marble economy splicer & a Neumade (I think it is) double dispener splicer.... and it's time for all of them to be cleaned... I tried the CPI splicer cleaner stuff, but I'm not overly impressed with it at this point. Maybe I could try fingernail polish remover or acetone to remove the glue 'gunk' from the tape cutters and the perf punchers??

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The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese!

Posted by Kyle Abel (Member # 819) on 05-12-2001, 03:58 AM:

Jason,

As you probably know, rule #1 with splicers is do it one at a time, as many of the parts come in matched sets, and only work within those matched sets.

As for a good product to clean with, try Mineral Spirits. You can get it at any Home Depot, Lowes, Wal-Mart, etc. Look in the paint section next to the paint thinner. It's great for cleaning up adheasive residue.

Generally, if the film and tape cutting assemblies are in good physical shape, I'll soak them in a bit of Mineral Spirits for about a minute, then wipe off the residue, and re-assemble.

Hope this helps,

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Kyle Abel
General Manager
Plano Movies 10

Posted by Jesse Skeen (Member # 586) on 05-12-2001, 08:44 AM:

Lighter fluid works too. (Just don't light any matches near it!)

Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 05-12-2001, 08:59 AM:

Part of glue/gunk problem may be the quality of the tape you are using. Generally Neumade tape will not gunk up your splicer they way the cheaper tapes will.

Steve

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"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"

Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 05-12-2001, 10:39 AM:

I use mineral spirits to soak the cutting head on CIRO splicers and then scrub it with a toothbrush. Any other residue that may be left I use lighter fluid on it. Cleans 'em right up.

Posted by Greg Mueller (Member # 17) on 05-12-2001, 11:15 AM:

There's a product called "Energine" that is sold as a spot remover. It is 100% Naptha, which is the same stuff that is in lighter fluid. It works great and is cheaper than lighter fluid. It comes in a little white metal can. You can find it at drug stores like "Long's Drugs". My next quest is to find some pads to replace the "round cotton flats" that I use to clean before splicing. Ones that don't leave fibres behind.

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Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut http://www.muellersatomics.com/

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 05-12-2001, 02:43 PM:

I've got to wholeheartedly agree with Steve on this one. While switching to Neumade tape will not solve your existing problem, once you get those splicers clean you should stop buying that other tape. I have used Neumade splicers exclusively with Neumade clear tape (the yellow stuff isn't as good, even though it is from Neumade) for periods of 3 years without any need for cleaning, except to dump the catch bin several times on the underside.

What kind of tape are you using now? Start ordering Neumade clear. If you must use some sort of other tape for marking reasons, clean up the Neumade splicer and load up Neumade clear tape and do not use anything else in it. Use the other splicers for the junk tape. The Neumade splicer is clearly the best one you have.

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 05-12-2001, 04:26 PM:

I personally dislike the neumade tape.
I have found the best tape is the Marble/CPI tape (same as Jock Roe UK)
I find it leaves clean strong splices and peels off with no gunk left behind

Posted by Jason Black (Member # 684) on 05-12-2001, 06:59 PM:

To all who replied,

Thanks. I'll be trying the lighter fluid method when I return Monday. I've been using CPI clear for many months now, but my residue problem *could* be from a run of tape prior to the CPI stuff.

Will post results later in the week.

CIAO,

Posted by Aaron Sisemore (Member # 145) on 05-12-2001, 07:42 PM:

CPI has a splicer cleaning kit available as well with a solvent, and basically everything you would need to clean any splicer (they provide disassembly and cleaning instructions for NeuTaper and 'Cinesplicer' (same as Marble's splicer) splicers...

Aaron

Posted by Lance C. McFetridge (Member # 95) on 05-12-2001, 08:40 PM:

I'll agree with Gordon. I dislike the Neumade tape and have great results with tape purchased from Entertainment Equipment. Which I believe is made in the UK.
lance

Posted by Josh Jones (Member # 447) on 05-12-2001, 11:03 PM:

Try using Goo Gone. It will remove the tape residue, but be sure to use some form of a degreaser afterwords, as the GG is Petrolium based. The smell it leaves behind will leave you high for a while

Josh

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 05-13-2001, 02:22 AM:

Ok, that's two people who have stated a dislike for the Neumade tape, yet listed no reason. What's the reason fellas?

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 05-13-2001, 08:20 AM:

I find it doesn't adhere as well to well used prints and it will stretch

Posted by Josh Jones (Member # 447) on 03-07-2002, 03:14 PM:

ok, so what do you use to remove the sticky residue from the film? I would feel a little hesitant to use naptha on a irreplaceable print. any suggestions?

Josh

Posted by John T. Hendrickson, Jr (Member # 849) on 03-07-2002, 04:44 PM:

Filmguard works great.

Posted by Mike Blakesley (Member # 26) on 03-07-2002, 06:49 PM:

I have some CPI tape but I've found it tends to tear into little pieces too easily when peeling off. Neumade is better IMO.

Posted by Stan Gunn (Member # 554) on 03-07-2002, 11:17 PM:

Josh

I repair and clean film for a distruber of of early film titles (35mm)and have a big problem with tape residue, I have found lighter fluid to be the best for this problem. I have a friend Who is into archival film preservation, who also recomends its use.
If a soft clean cloth is used and gentle pressure, it does not have any effect on the film, but I would not reccomend it be used for general film gleaning.

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KALEE FOREVER. CARBON ARC, THE ONLY LIGHT FOR THE STARS!
ALL PARTS FOR VICTOR AND KALART VICTOR 16MM PROJECTORS.SERVICE TO 35 AND 16MM PROJECTION EQUIPMENT.
35MM sprockets made to order.

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 03-08-2002, 07:50 AM:

Tape residue dissolves in petroleum solvents, the film emulsion will soften in water but is not really bothered by most solvents. Polyester film base is nearly indestructible. Acetate a bit less so, but it stands up to a cleaning OK.
So petroleum solvents are the choice for cleaning tape goo off film. Polar solvents (water soluble, like alcohol) are a poorer choice because of the unknown water content, soap and water is a no-no.
If you can find a product called "Gum-Off" it cuts tape glue like nothing else, but it may have been outlawed as carcinogenic or an environmental hazard. "Bug and Tar Remover" from auto stores is wicked for getting tape residue off windows or equipment but I haven't attacked film with it.
Lighter fluid or paint thinner work a bit slower but are effective.
Acetone works well but is so dangerous to work with I leave it for extreme cases. By dangerous I mean its ability to destroy and dissolve almost any paint or plastic instantly. Although Estar isn't affected, spilling acetone on just about any surface that isn't polished metal will leave a permanent reminder. Plus the fumes are toxic and explosive...

Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 03-08-2002, 11:49 AM:

Splicer cleaning and film cleaning seem like very different tasks. While I can see using serious solvents like that for cleaning metal, I'm surprised at their use om film.
Over here, we continue to use our stockpile of Renovex (1,1,1-trichloroethane), I'm surprised others don't do the same.

--jhawk

Posted by Pete Naples (Member # 761) on 03-08-2002, 12:07 PM:

I find that WD-40 is quite useful for removing the goo left by splicing tape, that and assisting in starting wet Range Rovers!

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 03-08-2002, 11:13 PM:

HydroNaptha is an approved film cleaning solvent by Kodak I am sure that our human link search engine can give us the kodak link for it

Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 03-09-2002, 12:05 AM:

Since he's probably on the way back from ShoWest, Here's Kodak's Film Cleaning Solvents page.

--jhawk

Posted by Josh Jones (Member # 447) on 03-09-2002, 11:22 PM:

John said;

"Splicer cleaning and film cleaning seem like very different tasks"

true, but they both involve the removal of tape residue

Josh

Posted by Leo Enticknap (Member # 534) on 03-11-2002, 08:26 AM:

So that's what Renovex is! 1,1,1 was used in ultrasonic film cleaning machines before the European Union banned it on the grounds that it's hazardous to the environment. IMHO, none of the alternatives are anything like as good.

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 03-11-2002, 02:49 PM:

Josh they may both be the issue of removing residue but what you are removing the residue from is a completly different material

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 03-12-2002, 01:28 PM:

jhawk said: "Since he's probably on the way back from ShoWest, Here's Kodak's Film Cleaning Solvents page."

Thanks for posting the link.

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: +1 585 477 5325 Cell: +1 585 781 4036 Fax: +1 585 722 7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 03-13-2002, 08:33 AM:

Lighter fluid often contains Naphtha:
http://aditweb.nmu.edu/public_safety/msds/cheminfo.php?MSDS=17130

Posted by Stan Gunn (Member # 554) on 03-16-2002, 05:41 AM:

Leo

I have altered an early lipsner smith to use perc, it is run at around 36 FPM and the solvent temp raised a bit and the air knife slits a wisker differant than the specs, it works great.

Posted by Leo Enticknap (Member # 534) on 03-16-2002, 05:52 AM:

RTI, who market Lipsner-Smith cleaners over here, now sell them ready-modified to run with perchloroethane. When I said it wasn't as good I didn't mean that it wouldn't get the film clean - it just costs more, and is more of a hassle.

Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 10-28-2005, 07:26 PM:

It has been 1322 days since the last post.

Posted by Michael Allen Mccartney (Member # 3428) on 10-28-2005, 07:26 PM:

Sorry to bring back an old thread like this, but the info present just isn't enough for me.

I'm more curious on just HOW you guys clean splicers rather then what type of cleaning fluid.

Do you take the splicer apart to clean it?

Are you dabbing the fluid on and letting it sit for a bit then scrubbing it off? Spraying it on? Or are you soaking it in a container filled with the fluid (seems rather expensive but figured I'd ask)? Precision placement via syringe? Other?

If you're dabbing it, are you using a sponge to do so? Q-tips? Fingertip? Other?

What are you using to scrub the glue residue off? A tooth brush? A copper toothed brush? A metal file? Q-tips? A razor edge or knife? Other?

I've tried a few methods, and while I get the blade, plates, and perf punchers clean, I can never seem to get the perf hole areas clean.

Getting another brand of Tape is not an option, already asked, already got a response.

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 10-28-2005, 09:23 PM:

Often I find people fail to read the manufacturers guidlines on their splicer (like lots of other things)
On the CIR the manufacturer recomends
1 the holes in the dies not be cleaned out. The idea is the punching adheres to the other ones there
2 that there be two layers of tape left applied across the matrix

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 10-29-2005, 02:37 AM:

quote: Gordon McLeod
1 the holes in the dies not be cleaned out. The idea is the punching adheres to the other ones there
2 that there be two layers of tape left applied across the matrix

Wonder if this could apply to the Neumade "Newtaper" units, the "doorstop" STRONG units, and the Marble "Neumade" wannabes..

I remember when tape splicers first came out that of the instruction of leaving the two layers across the matrix was applied.

CPI makes a good splicer cleaner, but I've done the same with good ol' WD-40.

Lighter fluid does good as well, but have to wear gloves so the naphta doesn't doesn't take all of the skin oil out of your fingers..

-Monte

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 11-01-2005, 05:46 AM:

Be careful when using flammable solvents like naphtha (lighter fluid), alcohol, and acetone. [Eek!]

Posted by Dan Lyons (Member # 1454) on 11-01-2005, 10:20 AM:

After you clean it, start using quality tape. Crap tape leaves behind residue on film and your splicer.

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 11-01-2005, 11:57 AM:

Using Neumade splicers, I have NEVER left a piece of film on the punching block and unless the splicer was badly neglected have never had any of the little tape perforations left behind. The Neumade design is hands down the best tape splicer ever made. The only time I have ever found someone who argued the point, they fell into one of these categories:

*That person had never used a Neumade and didn't know any better.

*That person was or worked with projectionists who were careless and abusive to the equipment and wanted something more along the lines of the Strong splicer since the case is just about indestructable (as opposed to just giving reasonable care to a Neumade).

*Cheap, cheap, cheap!

And Dan is correct, crappy tape will gum up your splicer and it won't make the same quality level of splices. Best to use only Neumade tape. I've got a splicer in my screening room that saw about 10 years worth of almost-daily use as I used it in theaters that I worked at as well, and it's only had Neumade tape on it, never been cleaned, and still makes flat out perfect splices.

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 11-01-2005, 01:17 PM:

quote: Brad Miller
Best to use only Neumade tape

..I agree also. But unfortunately there are plenty of "cheap" operations out there that want the cheaper brand due to unnecessary spending and can't see the reason for the more expensive Neumade when the cheaper brands can do just the same task when doing a lot of "makes and breaks" in a complex world. But, their Neumades are pretty gummy looking and stick like nobody's business.

Shoot, I've seen operations use regular "Scotch tape" for their splicing-and these splices hold for what their worth, and that's called "being very cheap.." (lol)

quote: John Pytlak
Be careful when using flammable solvents like naphtha (lighter fluid), alcohol, and acetone.

Got that right. If I do use these substances, I'm outside the building doing the teardown and cleaning since I don't really want to be gassed out or blow the place up.

Main reason I like using WD-40 the most-not so nasty of a product and you can localize and minimize the spray if needed, then I use alcohol for a quick rubdown to remove the residue from the WD-40.

Even FG is good splicer cleaner....

-Monte

Posted by Brad Allen (Member # 470) on 11-02-2005, 07:07 PM:

Which model of Neumade splicer is prefered?

Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 11-02-2005, 07:17 PM:

the common 35/SS model.

If you're planning on buying a new one, or have one repaired and if you are using two different kinds of splicing tape, buy another arm and roller assembly with the mounting screws like the one that is already on the back, and you can mount this assembly in front where the two holes are already at and you have a double roll splicer-one roll in front and one roll in back for multiple tape use.

-Monte