This is topic To brake or not to brake? in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Mitchell Cope (Member # 32) on 05-24-2001, 06:40 AM:
I picked up a Christie AW3 platter for my home screening room. The guy I bought it from recommended that I not use the brake switch on the MUT. He said that it would wear down the drive wheel on the motor prematurely. Trying to follow his recommendation by slowing down and just applying a hand brake to the platter, I've popped two acetate films... not a good start.So, did I get good advice? I tested MUT braking on the thread up leader and it seemed to work fine. It's amazing to me how any of this braking works without the breaking of any (acetate) film. 
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 05-24-2001, 06:48 AM:
I do not like the brake control one bit. It is too hard on the film. Once you work with the platter a few times, you will learn how to stop it. If the film broke, you were going too fast and trying to stop too quickly, while applying too much braking on the platter without slowing down the MUT quick enough. It's not hard, but as your friend recommended...forget the brake.
Posted by Aaron Mehocic (Member # 15) on 05-24-2001, 09:53 AM:
I don't know about Christie tables, but I never use any brakes. Our Speco and Neumade tables have them (older Potts model does not) and I just hate them. When tearing down prints I usually run the MUT at full power for about 90% of the particular reel coming off, then I slow the machine down when about 1/4 inch of that reel is still left on the platter tier and take it of at about half speed. Hardly ever miss a splice, and when we used to use acetate I never snapped the film.
Posted by Bill Langfield (Member # 818) on 05-24-2001, 10:31 AM:
Mitchell,Clearly you need more experience.
If you are breaking film, you need
to get used to waiting for the join,
then slowing the mut and plate at the
same same time.
Can you break down film on the rewind bench
from 6000ft to flat bobbin cores.
AND PACK ALL THREE SPOOLS TIGHT??
As Brad said, er, I don't know what Brad said
However those brake switches/buttons are USELESS. The only way I see those brake
butoons of use is for some one taking
3 hours to break down a 3 hour movie.
Bill.
Yes I know you should not make-up/break-up
at more than the 2X projector speed, but that law went out when they started PRINTING at 10x, and with high speed Eprad Muts
On the bench 2000ft to 2"core = 1.30secs.
Thats a good rate reference for you.
Posted by Mitchell Cope (Member # 32) on 05-24-2001, 01:03 PM:
I'll try to slow it down a bit 
though I didn't think I was going that fast. The momentum of the platter kept film coming (putting a few feet on the floor ) then the slower moving MUT spindle took up the slack and then "pop". Guess I need to work on my eye to hand to hand to hand coordination 
Aaron, if you can go from half speed to a stop, you are going a lot faster than me. I think my top speed is probably about your half speed.
Bill, er I didn't know what you said. I don't have 6000' reels and I don't want to get near 2000' in 1.30 seconds 
Maybe you meant 130 seconds.
Posted by Christopher Seo (Member # 7) on 05-24-2001, 02:28 PM:
I never use the BRAKE feature. The key is never to let the film go slack. If it goes slack and then pulls tight again that is when an acetate break or polyester crinkling will occur. Always decelerate slowly while applying drag to the feeding end: when making up, lightly press the flanges of the reel on the MUT; when breaking down, lightly squeeze the edge of the platter deck. This should keep the film taut (of course you don't want to put too much tension on the film). You will have to vary this manual pressure depending on how quickly you decelerate and how close the film is to the center (tension naturally increases as you get closer to the center of a reel or platter). Note, if you leave the AW3 motor engaged when breaking down, this provides lots of tension so the film will probably stay taut without requiring manual drag (providing you still decelerate at a moderate pace). Also, before you start up again, gently pull the film tight on the feed end and apply a little drag as you start.Of course, there are still times when the film may go slack. While reaching over the AW3 MUT controls to adjust speed once, I brushed the switch from "LOAD SPINDLE" to "LOAD PLATTER" and then back again in panic. The film slackened and then pulled tight again very quickly (this was at high speed). Or the problem could be out of your control, such as a power outage. In my opinion, if the film should go slack for any reason, always turn the MUT off, and grab and completely stop the take-up end first. If you're breaking down at high speed, sure, some film will spill off the platter onto the floor, but it's better than the film pulling tight and snapping, and your floor should be decently clean anyway. Of course, under ideal situations such as home screening, you can go at a leisurely pace anyway.
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 05-24-2001, 04:59 PM:
The brake is worthless. A little cordination between your hands, eyes, and brain will suffice quite nicely.
Posted by John Walsh (Member # 168) on 05-25-2001, 12:09 AM:
I can only add what many have already said: Once you get used to platter make up/break-downs, no one (I know of anyway) uses the brake switch.
Posted by Bill Langfield (Member # 818) on 05-25-2001, 11:55 AM:
Mitchell,
Sorry for the confusion...1:00.00 = 1hour
1.00 = 1 minute
That proberly makes no sense.
In any case I was saying you should
be able to wind a 2000ft in 1 1/2 (90 secs)
You said you dont have 6000ft spools,
that's is pitty.
So you are breaking down / making directly
fom the bobbin cores??
Oh another safety tip, don't make up or break down at too hight speed on those plastic chri*** centre rings they can fly off)
Bill.
Posted by Mitchell Cope (Member # 32) on 05-25-2001, 01:06 PM:
What's a bobbin core? I'm rewinding to 2000' shipping reels off the platter. I then take those reels to my rewind bench where I reattach the head and tail leaders. I store the reels on standard 35mm plastic cores.
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 05-25-2001, 01:11 PM:
AFAIK Plastic Core = Bobbin, just a different name for the same thing.------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
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