Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Perf. Fixer help needed

This is topic Perf. Fixer help needed in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Mike Heenan (Member # 392) on 06-02-2001, 04:41 PM:

Hi all, I just got in one of the small perf. fixing things called a Cinebug, but I cannot really figure out how to use it. Does anyone have one of these? Also, another question I have is that I have a reel of an older film which has some weak sprocket spots throughout the entire reel, is there any place that can professionally repair the sprockets on the entire reel? Thanks.

Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 06-02-2001, 07:09 PM:

Mike:

Email me at KLayton888@aol.com with your snail mail address and I'll send you a photocopy of the operating booklet. It's only a few pages long.

Larry Urbanski sells supplies for the Cinebug. I think his website is listed on Film-Center or 16mmfilms.com

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 06-03-2001, 07:08 AM:

Mike said: "I have a reel of an older film which has some weak sprocket spots throughout the entire reel, is there any place that can professionally repair the sprockets on the entire reel?"

A reel full of worn or damaged perforations would probably be repaired in the same way you intend to do it --- with the Cinebug or Perf-Fix tape.

For those who aren't familiar with these devices, they applied a special narrow perforated adhesive tape to only the perforation area of the film, so torn perfs could be reinforced without tape being visible in the projected image.
http://members.tripod.com/~Moviecraft/supplies.html

------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Eastman Kodak Company
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7419
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 06-03-2001, 07:36 AM:

Don't waste your time or money for Perf-Fix tape. It usually provides only a marginal service and sometimes will fail to work at all. Unless this is an irreplacable reel of film it is a waste of time and costs allot of money. I've always regarded Perf-Fix as an invention similar to the chrome plated muffler bearing.
Mark @ GTS

Posted by Mike Heenan (Member # 392) on 06-03-2001, 03:21 PM:

I'll have to agree with you Mark, after playing around with this thing, its pretty hard to get it to work the way it's supposed to. The film isnt rare one of a kind, so hopefully either an odd reel with show up, or someone can point me to a lab that has a professional machine that will do this.

Posted by Darryl Spicer (Member # 711) on 06-03-2001, 04:05 PM:

The cinebug is a waste of time and money. I used this thing years ago when I would get a film with sprocket damage. After a few runs the tape would start coming back off so I just spend extra time and try to use splicing tape. It is stronger and does not peal away.

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 06-03-2001, 04:11 PM:

Get a long table, say 8 feet long and lay a strip of film on it and tape the ends down so it will not move and is pulled taught. Then get yourself some Hudson Photographic clear splicing tape and lay a strip from one end to the other, where the edge of the tape is where the dts timecode track would normally lie and tape it down to the film and table. Then use an exacto knife and slit the edge of the tape flush with the edge of the film. Repeat for the other side and then punch that section with a good splicer. It takes some time, but this technique does work pretty well. I've tried other kinds of tape and was only pleased with the Hudson for repairing sprockets. The Neumade is too thick and the other brands of tape I tried do not have a clean enough slit on the edges and can cause noise in the soundtrack, lines on the projected left edge of the picture or stick in the gate.

Posted by Pete Lawrence (Member # 130) on 06-04-2001, 12:12 AM:

I've had good luck with the clear perf-fix tape on both 35mm and 16mm. It sticks well and is resistant to most cleaners. The white stuff is worthless. Brad seems to have found an alternative method with regular splicing tape, and it's much cheaper than using the real perf-fix tape. If the tape is applied to the base side of the print, what difference does it make as to how thick it is? It may be a little noiser in the gate, but it shouldn't have any effect on screen.

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 06-04-2001, 12:47 AM:

The thicker tape like Neumade's can throw off the focus.

Posted by Jeff Taylor (Member # 443) on 06-04-2001, 08:11 AM:

Ever gotten in a print with major sections of perf repair where the adhesive has leached out and stuck the adjacent layers of film together? That's a wonderful experience! I haven't tried a Cinebug, but I've tried using perf tape with a long block with registration pins and on balance root canal is more fun--especially with older film that has some shrinkage. I'll vote for Brad's method, or for just a few torn sprockets just give in and make a series of splices (without cutting the film, obviously) next to eachother. It holds up much better with two layers of tape although it does show on the screen.

Posted by Barry Hans (Member # 477) on 06-04-2001, 04:34 PM:

Many years ago I had a relief operator use perfix on the edge of a old worn out trailer for a film we would only show during christmas. I came in the following day and ran the trailer before the feature and heard a "zinging" sound. I walked over and opened the projector door and the perfix tape was spewing out at me! That was my first and last experience with the stuuf.

Posted by Ron Crookham (Member # 895) on 07-19-2001, 07:31 PM:

Brad, Do you have a source for the Hudson Photographic Repair tape?
What splicer do you recommend to open the perfs?

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 07-19-2001, 09:45 PM:

A few vendors of HPI Splicing Tape:
http://www.modernsoundpictures.com/FrameFilmSupplies-118-119.html
http://www.chamblesscineequip.com/catalog/editing.htm
http://philfilm.simplenet.com/supplies.htm

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 07-19-2001, 09:50 PM:

Entertainment Equipment Corp is Hudson dealer
1 800 448 1656

Posted by Mike Heenan (Member # 392) on 07-20-2001, 12:15 AM:

Is this HPI tape supposed to cover the entire frame? Im looking for good tape with Brad's method of fixing it, just fixing the sprockets, because my problem reel is some extensive. Ive searched out several labs, all have which come up nothing, other than they offer inspection services, and fixing with splicing tape, which I can do myself.

Posted by Ron Crookham (Member # 895) on 07-20-2001, 02:47 AM:

Thanks John & Gordon for where to get the splicing tape. Any advice on
which splicer to use to punch the holes?

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 07-20-2001, 03:13 AM:

Slit the edge first with a razor blade and then punch the perfs out with the splicer of your choice. Just make sure it punches perfectly.

Mike, the Hudson Photographic tape is just like any other rolled splicing tape. It is thinner than Neumade, but not weak like other thinner tapes and will hold up nicely over time. It doesn't "ooze" either.

Posted by Joe Ritter (Member # 804) on 07-20-2001, 11:35 AM:

On the Hudson tape,
I have film that the sprocket side of the film is completely gone. will the tape on two sides of the film, trimmed to the proper width, and holes punched with a splicer work. Or does one have to place a piece of film between the two layers of tape for filler to bring everything up to the proper thickness?
I have a bad reel of one of my favorites "Cyrano de Berzerac" and want to do it right when I do it so all the information I can get is aprecieated.-------Thanks-------Joe Ritter-------

Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 07-20-2001, 12:03 PM:

Joe Ritter asked: "I have film that the sprocket side of the film is completely gone. will the tape on two sides of the film, trimmed to the proper width, and holes punched with a splicer work. Or does one have to place a piece of film between the two layers of tape for filler to bring everything up to the proper thickness?"

It would depend upon whether any of the edge of the film remained. If the film tore such that there was still the inboard edge of the perfs, I would just sandwich the film between the two layers of tape, and carefully punch new perfs in the tape. The remnants of the original perforation area would provide enough proper thickness for keeping the film flat in the gate. If you sliced off the film so there were no edges or perfs at all, you probably would need to have something between the thin layers of tape to keep the film flat in the gate.

I suggest getting an old trailer to experiment with, cutting off the edge to simulate your damaged print, and developing the best way to try to repair the damage.

Posted by Mike Heenan (Member # 392) on 07-21-2001, 01:07 AM:

I see Brad, thanks. And thanks John for the links, I will order a roll and test out on my reel, and report back... thanks.