My question is does anybody know the optimum % of humidity for the best result.
At very high humidity, the gelatin emulsion softens and swells, such that it may scratch easier, build up on hot projector gate components, hold dirt particles, or even get "sticky".
Really low humidity will aggravate static problems, since the film emulsion becomes less conductive. Very low humidity also may cause excessive film curl as the gelatin emulsion shrinks from the loss of moisture.
Ideally, the film should have just a bit of "positive" curl, and lie nearly flat --- this occurs at 50-60 percent humidity. 
http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/newsletters/reel/september99/pointers.shtml
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
What do you mean by positive curl??
I've found that most wraps, at least here in the midwest, occur in March to May, when it's heating up outside. Or whenever our dehumidifiers break down...
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http://www.mullerfamilytheatres.com
As humidity decreases, the gelatin emulsion shrinks as it loses moisture to the air, so it causes the film to curl inward toward the emulsion -- this is "positive" curl. At very high humidity, the gelatin emulsion absorbs moisture and expands, causing "negative" curl. Processed print film has minimal curl between 50 and 60 percent humidity. A hanging short strip of print film in the air can actually be used as a guide to maintaining the proper humidity -- a very slight amount of "positive" curl usually is the optimal position.
Use a dehumidifier if the film has "negative" curl. Increase the humidity if the film has excessive "positive" curl.
Here are links to information:
http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/motion/support/h1/base.shtml#other
http://www.kodak.com/country/US/en/motion/programs/student/handbook/physical4.shtml
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
IMAX also recommended storing prints emulsion in.
?????
I have always heard that film should be stored emulsion out. Is the emulsion-in suggestion just for IMAX projectionists?
Many Film-Tech participants find that platter transport and focus stability of today's 35mm polyester prints seem better with emulsion-out winding orientation. This would be possible, since the humidity curl characteristic of polyester prints is known to be different than triacetate. Frankly, the optimum winding orientation for polyester prints probably depends upon the relative humidity being maintained in the projection room, so the current recommendation is to use the orientation that provides the best transport (e.g., least tendency to "static cling") and best focus stability for the humidity conditions and equipment (curved vs. flat gate, lens type) in your theatre.
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
How you know if winding emulson in or out would be better for your theatre? Anyway, I'm talking about breaking down the film, when you don't know where it will go. Does emulsion in or out make any difference?
What difference does a flat or curved gate make?
JP- you have provided a lot of valuable information and links on many, many topics, spanning many, many threads. Thank you so much!
I have seen older copies of the Kodak projection manual floating around at older theatres I've been to. How can my theatre get a new one? (We don't have any.) thx
With triacetate prints, definitely wind emulsion-in, per SMPTE Recommended Practice RP39. With polyester prints, whichever orientation that seems to give better winding quality (I usually wind emulsion-in).
A curved gate generally helps counteract the heat-related "focus flutter" by gently bending the print lengthwise, giving it some added stiffness in the gate. Most modern lenses are optimized for the more commonly available curved gates.
Film-Tech has ALL the back issues of Kodak's "Film Notes for Reel People" in the "Manuals" section. Recent Kodak publications are available at:
http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/newsletters/index.shtml
SMPTE Books, including the recently published Projection Manual, are available at:
http://www.smpte.org/smpte_store/books/
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion

. But the picture never changes much, except for less hair. 
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion
I know your Tips page suggests emulsion out for polyester, and that is what I always do. What are your thoughts in light of what JP has said here today? thx.
Or in short, I've yet to find a situation where the film benefited from emulsion in winding. Remember, I've been storing test rolls of film for 12+years now from the early days of FilmGuard development. In every situation, I always stored extra copies "dry" (I used spare trailers that were brand new) with both winding orientations. In every instance, the emulsion out prints were fine, but many of the emulsion in prints had warpage, registration problems, more noticeable shrinkage, etc. While the emulsion in prints that were treated with FilmGuard were for the most part fine, when unrolled there was still some warpage, etc. That is why I recommend emulsion out, all the time no matter what. I've got prints that are over 10 years old that were wound exclusively emulsion out and they still look like they are fresh from the lab with no warpage or curl whatsoever. Still, that is of course not to say that in some place like Alaska or the equator that a different orientation may fare better, but until I see solid proof, I'll continue winding emulsion out. This is definitely moreso important with polyester film stocks though, as polyester stocks come from the lab with a positive curl to begin with and winding emulsion in only exaggerates that curl, which causes focusing problems. Remember, the film will always try and curl outward, away from the hub.
I noticed fewer (or no) focus problems when maintaining an emulsion in wind. When I added trailers that were shipped emulsion out, the focus difference was quite obvious (especially the focus drift within the trailer). After a day or two of running emulsion in the trailers focus point would become the same as the rest of the program that was already running emulsion in.
I had the same results with triacetate and with polyester stock. I maintained emulsion in winding until the cinema closed in 2000.
Core set took longer to change than focus shift, especially with those approx. 1 inch "trailer cores."
In my twenty years experience I've had fewer problems with emulsion in than with emulsion out winding.
I recommend 50%RH +/- 5% based on personal experience.
Steve
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"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"