On the other, the masking is too far back in flat on both sides.
I'm not familiar with how to adjust masking, and we'll get a tech to come out in a few years.
Anyone have any tips?
-Paul
That's not including the lens eccentricity and the aperture plate stops and junk like that. Have you tried opening the masking as far as it will go and projecting a picture (with test film) onto the screen to see if the projector is lined up the way it should be?
Elimanate all the easy things before going behind the screen and altering the settings of the masking gear. I have seen some people who have tinkered with things they shouldn't have and totally F***ed the rigging.
You need a test alignment film to verify the projector position first.
It depends on the masking motor type, but usually there are two adjustable levers inside the masking motor assembly. These levers are geared to the pulley/sprocket that operates the masking pull cord. As the motor operates, the levers move around until they press on a switch- which shuts off the motor. One lever sets where you want the motor (hence the masking) to stop for flat, the other for scope.
Unless you're sure of how to adjust it, I'd suggest you wait for a tech. Moving those levers only a few degrees can equal several feet of masking travel; perhaps farther than the masking track will allow. I've seen motors pulled up out of the floor because the masking was opened all the way, but the motor kept going. And masking track and rigging pulled down to the floor, too.
There are several different kinds of masking motors. There are newer ones with electronic controls that replace the old lever types.
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John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: 716-477-5325 Cell: 716-781-4036 Fax: 716-722-7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
Web site: http://www.kodak.com/go/motion