Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Motor in Christie MUT

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Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 02-26-2002, 01:30 PM:

What motor should be used in the Christie Make-Up Table (MUT)?

I have a set of MUTs here that shipped (used) with Bodine Type NSE-13 motors.

I haven't worked for this chain in about a year and a half and now the MUTs have a different motor (Bodine Type 33A5BEPM) installed.

The operators are complaining that the 33A5BEPM motors are "dying" all the time.

I have also observed chewed up drive belts in the MUTs, but this could be due to lack of maintenance - you should have seen the projectors! I'll take photos, I have eleven more overhauls to do.

The NSE-13 is (physically) a smaller motor than the 33A5BEPM, which does not fit comfortably into the space provided underneath the MUT. When swinging the 33A5BEPM to mount/dismount it, the casing of the motor "rubs" against the inside metal wall of the table. Aesthetically, it's a mess but I don't know if the motor is electrically suitable or not for this application.

What motor are you using in your Christie MK/MKE type MUT?

I do not know the EXACT model of the Christie MUTs they have here, but they are the MK/MKE type. If it is critical, then I will repost the actual model number info later tonight when I return from the sites. Let me know if that will make a difference.

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And, hey! Let's be careful out there.

~Manny.

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 02-26-2002, 02:17 PM:

The motor in them is fine for the job. I have a couple of questions for you to check with your projection staff though. Are they remembering to press the appropriate "makeup" button on the tree before they breakdown? Just because it says "makeup" doesn't mean you can do a breakdown without causing damage like you have described. Try and spin the platter backwards by hand, then engage that platter's makeup button and try to spin the platter backwards again. Notice how much easier it is.

Also, are these guys slowing the MUT down and letting it grind at a slow pace while they are looking for a splice? Doing that puts a lot of stress on the motor. If the film is held properly between two fingers near the edge of the platter, you should be able to feel a splice at 75% or greater speed with no problem.

Also, never use the "brake". Brake the platter gently with your hand when it comes time to stop.

Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 02-27-2002, 04:32 PM:

I have a training session coming up, so I'll raise these points with them.

As for the belt...I think the motor (the one I took out) was misaligned to the drive wheel. The belt was "rubbing" against the smaller drive wheel (on the motor).

------------------
And, hey! Let's be careful out there.

~Manny.

Posted by Scott Christopher (Member # 834) on 02-27-2002, 08:31 PM:

I have had problems with the 'Christie AW3 MUT'(burnt out motor). Yes it is due to the other projection staff are running it too slow during break down. I have had the original motor rewound twice now and to be honest with you, it is not worth it. After the first rewind the motor just got weaker and weaker. I have chased up another motor which is supposed to be better. basically same spec's but mounting holes are different. Once I recieve this motor I'll trial it and if all is well, I'll send the details.