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Posted by Carl King (Member # 398) on 04-15-2002, 12:34 PM:
Does anyone have any special tools, homemade or othewise, that
they use in the booth? What about something to help when adding
or removing trailers. Or maybe something that is used to keep
the print off the floor when threading up.Carl King
Posted by Ken Lackner (Member # 1002) on 04-15-2002, 12:44 PM:
For adding trailers, we have "the snake." I have no idea where it came from, but it's old as dirt. Basically, it's a bunch of PVC pipes cut to the size of trailer cores and strung together. As the film is taking up, you can slide it in to create a nice space to add another trailer. Nice trick, eh?
Posted by German Marin (Member # 918) on 04-15-2002, 06:35 PM:
When a new trailer is come to the booth and it needs to be inserted inmediatly, I use a 1000' can ship (only the base) to reduce trailers and get the necesary space to put in the new trailer.
When is necesary to tear down a movie we put an element to release the platter from the motor (a hammered bit of pipe) and get enough speed and avoid a very tight reel. I don't know if exist something to use in that place to release the motor.
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 04-15-2002, 07:23 PM:
I have my own homemade lock picks I use around the theaters.
Posted by Tom Sauter (Member # 616) on 04-15-2002, 07:38 PM:
For keeping leaders off the floor I hang a few loops of film on the manual douser handle. If you don't have one, I've heard clothespins or a cloth-wrapped magnet can stick that leader to something other than your shoes.
Posted by Michael West (Member # 428) on 04-15-2002, 10:42 PM:
i while back i made i kind of spinner that would enable me to splice a trailer into an assembled print, but i actually stole that idea from other projectionists - so i made one myself.
but now here at our imax theater i made a frame counter - a little crude, but it does work well.
Posted by Adam Birge (Member # 20) on 04-16-2002, 06:36 PM:
I took a control card from a christie make-up table, put it in a lil' box, and put on a connector to plug into the make-up table outlet on christie platters... Works nice for quick trailor changes or for an emergency platter speed controller if something goes wrong so you don't have to worry about lugging around a make-up table.
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 04-16-2002, 07:10 PM:
German, I know you have Christie platters, so this tip is for you and anyone eith with them. When breaking down, you should not be pulling the motor away from the platter deck. What you are supposed to do is press the appropriate "makeup" button on the column and then break down.Do this, go try and spin a deck backwards. Notice the drag? Now press that platter's makeup button and spin it backwards. Notice how the drag has now been reduced? That is the proper backtension.
Posted by James R. Hammonds, Jr (Member # 673) on 04-18-2002, 02:14 AM:
In order to make sure the print is off the floor when threading up, I make sure it is on the platter. I have found that the floor doesn't spin too well. 
Posted by German Marin (Member # 918) on 04-18-2002, 04:17 AM:
In my country the film is shiped in singles horizontal cans. When we get a release print sometimes it come without core and we send it back without cores. Then we use MARS to rewind the film into a little core and then we remove it (the most little core I know, i guess you use this core for rewind trailers in the US). If i don't release the motor I get a very tight reel and it could break the small weak core. Most of time we get the prints in big cores and use the appropriately used switch of the christie system. There is a little core what I talk about in the picture just over the trailer and beside splicer (yellow core).
(Have I done something unsuitable? 
I must correct it 
I'm just a year as a projectionist and want to get first class knowledge, I must be thankful that I am here on film-tech to learn. Thank you Brad 
Posted by Josh Jones (Member # 447) on 04-18-2002, 07:36 AM:
actually Brad, I have found with brittle acetate prints, one has to pull the motor off the deck or the tension is too high and a weak splice or a slight variation in speed will cause the film to snap.
been there, done that Josh
Posted by Aaron Sisemore (Member # 145) on 04-18-2002, 12:56 PM:
I have a handy adapter made from a Neumade rewind bench spindle that adapts 1/2" holes to 5/16" shafts (really handy item to have when the Warner/New Line ELRs were out there)-Aaron
Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 04-18-2002, 01:27 PM:
I use my own leader, which I have looped and duplicated onto B&W reversal Estar stock every couple of years.It's long and it has markings for where to put the "run-down" stop cue (we use Christie CA-21 automation) and also has nice threading leader with "Picture Start" and "Sound Start" marks and a space marked for ideal placement of the "Dowser Open" cue.
Some might argue that this is overkill, but I can tell you honestly that when we switched from Xelar leaders to my custom-made leader, all shows started clean.
The extra-long lacing part of the leader keeps the rest of the film from getting dirty.
------------------
And, hey! Let's be careful out there.
~Manny.
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 04-18-2002, 02:28 PM:
Josh, when was the last time those bearings and axle were properly lubricated on your offending AW3?
Posted by Josh Jones (Member # 447) on 04-18-2002, 02:53 PM:
not since it was installed 3 years ago. The bearings are not stiff or anything, just some of the film that goes through here is quite crispy:SJosh
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 04-18-2002, 02:58 PM:
Next thing to check is your motor drive belt. Get the new style for the decks and it turns MUCH easier. I'm just surprised you have a problem, as I've ran plenty of old film on it. Then again maybe those prints you are speaking of are desperate for lubrication. Still that shouldn't be done unless it is an extreme situation.BTW Josh, have you played with the large center rings for the AW3? They are quite nice, as not only can you time the platters slower to start with, but it makes buildup faster and there is substantially less backtension during breakdown on what would have been reel 1 (where the tension is greatest, of course). I don't even use the regular size rings anymore. 
Posted by Josh Jones (Member # 447) on 04-19-2002, 01:20 AM:
Drive belts? you mean pucks?We repucked the platter because during construction the platter sat in one position for a period of several months. The decks vibrated so bad we had to repuck the platter. I havent notice a drastic decrease in tension.
Josh
P.s. I didnt know they made larger rings except for the trailor rings. Are those what you were referring to?
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 04-19-2002, 05:58 AM:
Yup, the trailer rings. They are about 19 inches in diameter. (And yes the "pucks" are called belts for some strange reason. I don't remember the part number, but I'm fairly sure it ends in -001.)
Posted by Carl King (Member # 398) on 04-19-2002, 12:58 PM:
Michael.Actually, your spinner is what prompted me to ask about tools.
I had heard through my manager here that someone in Bayer's Lake
had made something to help install trailers. If you have a picture of
it maybe you could give it to Francis next time you see him. I'd like
to see what it looks like.
Carl
Exhibition, Saint John
Posted by Darren Briggs (Member # 1071) on 04-19-2002, 01:33 PM:
tool for the projection booth, A keypad lock on the door and dont tell management the code, then on busy evenings, you cant get pestered! just dont ansawer the phone either!
Posted by Sean McKinnon (Member # 612) on 04-19-2002, 02:15 PM:
Darren,The manager is responsible for the operation of the entire theatre. Remember you work for the manager and he/she has every right to be anywhere in thier building at anytime. I know you were probably joking but I disagree with people who think that Managers should stay out of the booth. If you do your job 100% then you have no reason to worry about your manager coming in the booth.
Posted by Gerard S. Cohen (Member # 994) on 04-19-2002, 03:54 PM:
Hola, German!
Beautiful photo of a projectionist, seriously at work. [Is he Angel?
Did you take the picture? How did you get it to post? I can't attach
or insert html graphics on Film-tech.]
The cores are usually referred to here by their size in inches. You show the smallest, a one-inch (1 in. or 1")yellow core, and a two-inch
blue core. There is a three-inch core that's gentle on film because of its larger radius. I dislike the 1" cores because the film developes a set curl, so that you unwind up with your hands enmeshed in a table full of "Shirley Temple curls."
Gerard.............................................................
"Si tienes prisa, paseme por encima."
Posted by Michael Rourke (Member # 1142) on 04-19-2002, 11:54 PM:
Brad and Josh: I thought they were called drive wheels, the little piece of rubber that screws to the motor shaft and "drives" the platter.Brad: I was taught to prop the motor off the platter and hold a thick rag against the platter to give it back tension when breaking down. I really don't see an arguement for not propping the motor off the platter as long as you give the platter some tension. Don't newer Christie towers come with a motor locking option so you don't have to use a pen or toothbrush?
Posted by Sean McKinnon (Member # 612) on 04-20-2002, 01:25 PM:
If you are using a rag in your hand to provide back tension for the platter you will end up with an uneneven wind. Your hand cannot physically provide steady tension as well as the motor can. I was taught to breakdown christies as you do then I realized that it was poor practice because that it not how the machine was designed. It became a lot easier to break down once I started to operate the machine the way that it was designed to be used.
Posted by German Marin (Member # 918) on 04-20-2002, 03:46 PM:
Hola Gerard, como estas? I'm doing fine.
To attach a picure first: it needs to be on a web page (I've the pictures in this site: http://mipagina.cantv.net/film_handler/recreo.htm then I type:
[img] http://mipagina.cantv.net/film_handler/images/recreo08.jpg [/img]
You are right, that guy is Angel Hultzsch (we've done a great work team for almost 10 months, he still at El Recreo and I'm at Lagunita). I took few pictures and Angel took most of it.
I know four sizes cores (in cm. because i don't have a inch measurement): 10 cm (4 inch?), 7.5 cm (3 inch?), 5 cm (2 inch?) and 2.9 cm (1 inch!). I don't like 5 cm niether 2.9cm for the same reason you don't like it. The blue core you can see there on the photo i 10 cm.
"Si tienes prisa, pasame por encima" <----LOL. I'm used to hear that phrase on the streets of my city!Take care of films! (I do all I've learned here )
Posted by Gerard S. Cohen (Member # 994) on 04-20-2002, 07:06 PM:
German:
And a beautiful website of photos you have there!
Except the one of the projectionist in the red shirt [you?] lifting
a feature print off the Christie platters without clamps! I wouldn't
DO that (tengo miedo!) You must wind really tight, or tu tienes
cojones del matador...
Looks like a modern, clean work environment, with the right guys at work!
Gerard
Posted by Bob Peticolas (Member # 328) on 04-21-2002, 01:05 PM:
German, A very well done site!! Your descriptions of digital sound with diagrams would make anybody proud.
Now, translate the text into English and you would be loved by everybody who has to explain these things to new projectionists or (gasp) even managers (or your Board of Directors, if you have to live with one).
Great work, keep it up!
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 04-21-2002, 05:00 PM:
Michael, Sean already answered the question, and no Christie platters do not come with such a ridiculous "feature". As far as I am concerned, any platter that requires human intervention to apply backtension on breakdown is junk and should not be used, for it is not good on the film. This has been discussed to death before, just do a search.I stand corrected. "Drive wheel pn#192826-001" At least I was right about it ending in -001.
Posted by Michael West (Member # 428) on 04-21-2002, 11:49 PM:
Carl
the "spinner" we use to place trailers in the platter was actually made from an old trailer core adapter as a base that fit into the centre of a platter deck (strong). the one i made from scratch, when i worked at the oxford was similar but used an old centre control as a base that fit in the platter. i will show francis when i see him, or post a picture later.
Posted by German Marin (Member # 918) on 04-22-2002, 12:31 AM:
Gerard, Bob: Thanks . I'm making the web site for people who cannot read english (there are a low level english speakers in my country) and I've traslate tips from Film-Tech to my web (english to spanish) but I'll traslate the web to english soon (maybe next May).
Yes, I'm the red T-shirt's guy who is lifting the feature print without clamps (this print is "Shrek" and is a five reels movie, I feel it light to move between screens and platters). Saturdays we were used to projecting three different films in the same screen (Matinče, "VIN" Vespertine-intermediate-nocturnal, mid night) and we must move the films. The movie wind tight by it selves while is running. A 7 reels feature print is more dangerous to lift without clamps because it's bigger in diameter (I've seen prints bigger than 7 reels dropped on the floor, like Joe in his 2nd training video).I'm updating my "software" while I'm getting knowledge from this great site. I dare to say that this is the greatest school of projection around the world. (I'm sure it is! )
Posted by Michael Rourke (Member # 1142) on 04-22-2002, 01:28 AM:
Brad and Sean: I'll play your game, you rouges. I will try it your way on the next tear down and see how I like it...maybe it will be nice to have a hand free to do with whatever I wish.That's what I am here for after all, to learn from the best even if I take a little ego bruise. I have already stopped using the CO2 on a regular basis, so I am open to change.
Posted by John Pytlak (Member # 331) on 04-22-2002, 09:17 AM:
Gerard said: "I dislike the 1" cores because the film developes a set curl, so that you unwind up with your hands enmeshed in a table full of "Shirley Temple curls."The "core set" caused by small cores often causes focus problems. 
------------------
John P. Pytlak, Senior Technical Specialist
Worldwide Technical Services, Entertainment Imaging
Research Labs, Building 69, Room 7525A
Rochester, New York, 14650-1922 USA
Tel: +1 585 477 5325 Cell: +1 585 781 4036 Fax: +1 585 722 7243
E-Mail: john.pytlak@kodak.com
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