Our equipment is a little over two years old, so I'm wondering what I have to look forward to in the future. Can I expect more of the same?
After conducting a serch, I know that Mark Gilbrandsen and Dave Cutler have favorable opinions of these units, while Nic Margherio and Ken Layton do not. However, those posts were also two years old.
Guys, have your opinions changed?
Is there anyone else out there who would like to give some input?
Im assuming you checked it out to make sure that it was completeley dead.
The way I do it is to stick a piece of cue foil (or something else like a screwdriver) underneath the sensor while it isnt running to make sure its not reading at all.
If you put it up to the sensor and you do not hear a click, then it is not reading anymore.
If you do hear a click, that means it still does read but may be dirty and need to be cleaned or you may have to lower the failsafe itself.
You can do this by unscrewing the failsafe from the projector and using a file to make the screw holes more of an oval shape so it rests lower on the screws.
I did this with all of the failsafes I had trouble with and they are working fine.
This may take some time if you are doing it by hand, so what I did was to take a file, attach it to a drill, and run the small end of the file back and forth through the hole and i spin the drill slowly.
If you do this, please be very careful and make sure you disconnect all the wiring from it because if you lose control of it, you might yank the failsafe from the wires, blow a fuse, and run the shows manually until you go out and get a replacement fuse.
Also you run the risk on making the holes too big.
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This one time, at Projection Camp, I stuck a xenon bulb....
I have no problem with the FP-350.
Steve
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"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
We have not included the FP-350 in the Repair Exchnage program as it hasn't been flagged as a high problem item. I'll take a look at returns and such and see where the product sits -- if the rate of trouble is significant, we will look to add it to the program. The weakest part of the failsafe is the rollers and the bearings, in my experience.
The test procedure suggested above is a good one. Chances are the roller that keeps the film close to the sensor is bent and not keeping the film close enough for reliable sensing of the cue. If you can put a screwdriver tip or a piece of cue tap near the sensor and hear the internal relay click, the problem might be that roller position, connections on the terminal block of the FP350 or the automation itself.
Pat
James R: Thanks for your solution, but the sensor was dead as we tested it using the method you described. It simply did not respond to the foil. I take a 3x5 file card an place a piece of foil tape on the edge and run it through the unit. If the unit is good, this will work every time.
Pat M: Thanks for your input. The rollers are fine. We clean and inspect each unit weekly. I'm glad to hear that the FP-350 is not generally a problem item. Perhaps this was an abberation. All the others, and the new unit, are working fine. I will say that I've had great support from Strong on other items. Troy James and Dale Mc Millan have been especially helpful. Keep up the good work!
One of my operators, who is an electronics tech school grad (which I am not!) took the unit apart and discovered a broken connection. He soldered it and we'll test it out this week.
Steve G: If the solder doesn't work out, I'll give Eprad a call and talk to them. We have a single sensor for outboard cues, so we'll get it fixed if we have to order a new board. Never hurts to have a working spare handy. Great suggestion, and thanks.
Good to hear from others that this is not a problem item.
John H.
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This one time, at Projection Camp, I stuck a xenon bulb....
Strong automations and failsafes are made by Eprad
Strong platters are made by Design & Manufacturing (Potts)
Strong changeovers are made by Kelmar
CFS changeovers were made under license from Kelmar
Christie film cleaners were made either by Kelmar or under license from Kelmar (they are very similar to but not exactly the same as a genuine Kelmar)
Christie basement readers are made by Kelmar
I am sure there are others
-Aaron
Design Manufacturing is a subsidiary of Ballantyne and Strong -- we own it. Design also makes the platter for Potts.
Eprad/TL Industries does make our automation and cue detectors for us as part of a long standing manufacturing agreement.
We actually make our own changeovers -- but if the design looks familiar, well...
Our standard basement readers (analog and digital) are Component Engineering, but we install Kelmar for some customers that want them.
Just about everything else we churn out here...
Pat
Did Ballantyne buy D&M from Bob Potts? I made some comments in the past about Robert Potts Enterprises and was told that the name was changed to D&M.
Or did Potts sell or license his platter design to Ballantyne?
As for the changeovers, both the Kelmar and Strong units are EXACTLY alike except for the name on them, therefore I assumed it was licensed.
-Aaron
Pat