This is topic Super LumeX Re-wire in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Matt Close (Member # 996) on 05-13-2002, 09:07 PM:
I have just pulled a Super LumeX out of storage, and upon inspection have found that almost ALL of the wiring loom inside is stuffed!! 
When I say stuffed, I mean heat-stressed, aged .... The insulation on the wires is hard, powdery and crumbling away leaving bare wires.Has this happened to anyone else's Super LumeX?
What wire would you suggest to replace the old ones with? .... Something that handles a bit more heat eh? 
... Teflon insulation perhaps? ... or is that a bit overboard... What do you guys think?
Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 05-13-2002, 09:37 PM:
The UV from the bulb and heat factors slowly destroy the wiring. PVC jacket 600 Volt 90 degree C heat resistant THHN type stranded electrical wire ( preferably white ) is fine as long as properly dressed within the box....if the wires are toast, the blower should be replaced as part of your rehab.
Richard Fowler
TVP-Theatre & Video Products Inc. www.tvpmiami.com
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 05-13-2002, 09:43 PM:
UV kills most insulation
I have typacly mounted a piece of fiberglass board around the harness to protect the wires
Posted by Will Kutler (Member # 770) on 05-13-2002, 09:45 PM:
Matt,Nothing is ever wrong with exceeding the origonal manufactures specs--with insulation type or wire guage! Just make sure that if you choose a heavier guage, make sure that it fits into the assembly!
I do not know what you have Down-Under, but pay attention to what the origonal wire was (solid strand or braided). If it was origonally braided, then use braided. If it was origonally solid wire, then use solid wire....remember, nothing wrong with using heavier guage!
There are several types of insulation that are high heat and chemical resistant...much of this wire can be had from your local hardware or electrical supply store...see what they have in stock.
I once had to do an emerengcy rewire of a Christie SLC Console 'cause the Contactor Relay fried, taking much of the wire with it! My local ACE Hardware saved the day!
Also, if insulation looks burned, then replace the wire...chances are that the wire is bad even if the multi-meter(VOM) says it is OK.
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 05-13-2002, 10:27 PM:
Can't you just order a new wiring harness from Strong?
The Super Lume-x is still in production.
Posted by Jon Bartow (Member # 241) on 05-14-2002, 07:18 AM:
I had to replace the wiring harness in a Super-80 recently for the same reason: Insulation dried, brittle, and falling off. I just ordered the wiring harness from Strong. Very easy. Only took me a couple of hours. Even came with the cloth "shield" on it.
Jonathan
Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 05-14-2002, 07:57 AM:
There's a fair bit of wire in there! Some of it is actually part of the exterior wiring harness, some is part of the igniter unit, and some is part of the autostrike board..
Most of the wire is 20ga stranded, some is 18ga.
If the big lamp-current wires are covered with woven thick soft white "yarn", that's asbestos and should be removed (minimize handling and treat as hazardous waste) and replaced with the new type.
A new internal harness from Strong is the best solution. The wires will all be numbered, terminated, and the correct length - these are all good things! This is a good investment at $244.00 list.
The external harness is another story, there are only 5 or 6 little wires plus the big'uns so it is pretty easy to make - not really wworth the $268.00 in most cases. Current production uses an 18ga green ground wire instead of the 8ga monster on older ones, so presumably that's all good and proper to use in a replacement.
If you use rubber welding cable for any cable inside the l/h you should wrap it with at least electrical tape, and preferably silicon tape, so it won't decay. Some rubber wire is UV resistant but unless you know it is, assume it isn't
If you're hell bent on hand rewiring it, the best (only?) 20/18ga wire to use is teflon jacketed. This will not decay in the UV bath, colour will still fade but WTH. It's tricky to strip and can be nicked by sharp metal rather easily but I still recommend it. No matter what wire you use it is going to be a nasty job, I would probably offend most drill sergeants with my swearing if I tried it.
Use black ty-raps and stickys!! - white ones are USELESS in there as the UV will kill them in weeks. I can't understand why Strong persists in that particular insanity.
You can rewire the autoignite board easily to replace fried wire.
Unless you have one of the rectifiers that uses it (if any are still working!) take the potentiometer out and trash it.
Watch out for the 150K resistor in the meter circuit, if you forget to install it and push the VOLTS button, the meter will go "ting!" and a bit of smoke will come out of it - the last action it will ever make.
Good luck!
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 05-14-2002, 08:44 AM:
I just rebuilt a Super Lum-Ex for my home screening room. I made a new harness from 20ga teflon wire that I bought at a local surplus place for less than 10 bucks. Its stiff and a pain to strip but will last for ever and cost less than the harness from Strong. It took me about 5 hours to make the new harness wire by wire, comparing them to the old, and cable tieing with UV resistant ties. As an alternative you can get the new harness from Strong, but cover it up as Gord says. The teflon stuff will never break down, even from exposure to UV. If I produced lamphouses they would be all teflon wired!
Mark @ GTS