This is topic Westrex Tower Problem in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Rob Jones (Member # 902) on 05-23-2002, 06:20 PM:
 
Hi,

Our Westrex tower (5035) is giving us a little grief... on one of the bearings, the axle going through it has a habbit of moving in the bearing towards the metal body of the tower, taking the hub and reel with it, causing these to rub up against the body of the tower.

This causes problems with tension as the reel is prevented from moving as per normal. What is odd is that the bearing in question has only recently been replaced and we can't see any obvious way of locking the axle in place to prevent its movement.

I've got a tech coming in in the next few weeks to do a major overhaul of our equipment but in the meantime is there anything I could be looking at to sort this out in the short term?

Cheers,

Rob
 


Posted by Ben Wales (Member # 92) on 05-23-2002, 07:00 PM:
 
Is it the motor bearing shaft or the pulley shaft (where the spool is placed on)?.

If it this shaft, you could adjust the the taper lock on the shaft, to access you have to remove the flange plate (keyway for spool) first and loosen the taper lock and check for end play on shaft.

On the inside of the Tower,there should be a circlip on the end of the shaft, check there is one in place as this stops the shaft from moving out through the bearing.
 


Posted by Pete Naples (Member # 761) on 05-24-2002, 04:58 AM:
 
Ben, from what Rob posted, it must be the spool shaft assembly that's giving grief.

Rob,

Sounds like you've got excess endfloat on the shaft assembly. Here's how I set these up. As Ben said there should be a circlip on the inside end of the spool shaft, there should also be a 1/2" bore flat washer under the circlip. This is vital as otherwise the circlip will get pulled throught the bearing. Now with regard to the other end, remove the three screws that secure the driving plate to the belt sprocket. (NB on some units there is also a grub screw through the edge of the driving plate). Remove the driving plate from the sprocket/shaft assembly, being careful not to lose the three small washers that are between it and the belt sprocket. If these do get lost, or are missing then they need to be replaced to keep the spool alignment correct.
Now remove the belt sprocket. Look at the front face of it, you'll see two allen head screws 180 degrees apart, and one hole in between the two screws. Remove both screws fully, and put on of them into the previously empty hole. Tighten the screw until you feel and hear a clunk. What you've done is seperated the two halves of the taper-lock assembly. Remove the the screw from the jacking hole, and you should find that the centre of the taper lock pulls out, you can now remove the outer part as the tension will have come off the belt.
BTW NEVER attempt to remove the belt without splitting either taper lock pulleys, you have no idea of the number of calls I've had from people who broke the belt by levering it with a screwdriver, and don't carry a spare!
Now look at the shaft where it comes through the outer bearing, there should be a 1/2" bore flat washer at this end also. I'll wager that it's missing or not thick enough, as it's role in life is to space the whole hub assembly out from the bearing housing, preventing the problem you're describing. If the washer is missing, replace it or if it's too thin, add another (Halfrods or B&Q or similar).
To re-asemble, put the outer of the taper lock on, with the belt round it, push the centre part in, paying attention to the alignment of the holes, repalce the two screws and tighten securely. It's best to push the shaft from the inside while you do this, oterwise it might move. Replace the driving flange (remember those three washers) and tighten the screws fully.
On the 5035 tower belt tension is set by loosening the motor mount screws and moveing the motor until tension is correct.

A word of advice. The shafts usually get pulled through the bearing assembly because the spool securing nut has been over tightened. Never use a pipe wrench or similar, as you'll only do damage. If you find that the nut bottoms on it's thread, but the spool isn't held securely, use a washer or two between the spool and the nut to take up the slack. If you're paranoid about it working loose (one of the many myths about teh Westrex tower, perpetrated by those who don't know or can't be bothered to use it correctly), you could put a spring or star washer in there too, but I've never personally found that necessary.
 


Posted by Rob Jones (Member # 902) on 05-24-2002, 09:40 AM:
 
Hi,

Yep, sorry for not making it clear, it is the spool shaft that we're having problems with. I'll open it up and take a look inside...

Thanks for the suggestions,

Rob
 


Posted by Rob Jones (Member # 902) on 06-06-2002, 06:01 AM:
 
Pete-

Yep, you were right, there was no washer between the bearing and the hub. I've put one in and it seems to have cleared up the problem. However, its also missing one of the grub screws for the taper lock on the belt sprocket. It seems to have survived for quite a while without this but I think this might also have been the cause of the hub moving on the spindle.

I guess it would probably be a good idea to try and replace it! Do you know if its of standard size/where might have one?

cheers,

Rob
 


Posted by Pete Naples (Member # 761) on 06-06-2002, 12:41 PM:
 
Rob, I have played this game before with the venerable Westrex 5035 long play film carrier assembly!

Sorry off the top of my head I've nop idea what the screw is, I've looked in the book and it doesn't tell you, just refers to the whole taper lock assembly. Take the screw that you do have down to your local old fashioned engineering supplies shop, iron monger or a GOOD motor factor (not the sort of place that sells boom boom boxes and allot wheels!), they ought to be able to match it easily enough. It's probably a BA or UNF thread. Failing that give my office a ring and talk to Alan, he'll laugh if all you want is a screw, but should be able to help in time. You could also try searching on the taper lock assembly part Nš (stamped on it), it's made by Fenner if I recall right.
 


Posted by Ben Wales (Member # 92) on 06-06-2002, 06:06 PM:
 
I think they were a BA thread and Fenner's should still stock the Taper Lock and the set Grub screws to suit.

Failing that if you have a spare screw, take it to a good tool or screw fixing shop as some still have these in stock.
 


Posted by Peter Hall (Member # 695) on 06-24-2002, 12:29 PM:
 
Rob -

Isn't it about time you posted a new image, with you standing in front of your "new" 1990s V5 rather than the 1950's Kalee ? If your tower is still giving problems, I'd strongly suggest talking to OMNEX re buying a complete tower - they seem to have plenty and for the price, considering that you get 4 plates, 3 rheostats and a pile of switches (plus if you want to strip it a rather unique twin rotary 19"" rack)... Jed - I think you owe me a beer !
 


Posted by Ben Wales (Member # 92) on 06-24-2002, 05:32 PM:
 
Isn't it about time you posted a new image, with you standing in front of your "new" 1990s V5 rather than the 1950's Kalee ?

Peter: What about a image of yourself as yet we have not seen the famous Peter!
 


Posted by Pete Naples (Member # 761) on 06-26-2002, 06:59 PM:
 
Peter Hall, thanks for the plug! LOL I'll gladly buy you that beer on Ged!

Rob, is it still giving you grief? You just need to get someone in that actually knows the innards of the 5035. Those things go forever if looked after properly.

Ben, I back you all the way, lets see Mr Hall in the flesh, so to speak....
 


Posted by Rob Jones (Member # 902) on 06-27-2002, 07:03 AM:
 
Hi,

Peter - I think they got that crayzee video put together in the end - they took atime lapse video of the Kalee being taken away and the Vic 5 being put in, with lots of shots of Peter 'in action' as it were . Of course I'll get them to send it to you for editing first before it gets sent to Brad PS - like the 'make the earth move' flyer.

As far as the tower goes, its been behaving itself for the past couple of weeks but I think Dave wants to get someone to come and give it some TLC before we open again in the Autumn so we'll probably be giving your boss a call Pete - (I think you definately owe Peter that beer now Pete)

As for me I'm bugging outa here in a week or so for a year down to picturesque Swindon (the call of the real world where you actually get paid!) so I'll have to get someone else to have the picture in my absence!
 


Posted by Michael Hunt (Member # 772) on 06-27-2002, 06:22 PM:
 
So Pete, you must be the infamous Omnex engineer North of the Border...

last time I saw Ged and he offered me a beer I had to leg it from the Pictureville in Bradford in time to catch what was almost the last train down south... (and that's going back a few years)

One day I'll find the funds to go Digital, and to get a new photo of myself scanned in, stood next to some of my Omnex supplied gear...

Regards to all, must go

Mike
 


Posted by Pete Naples (Member # 761) on 06-28-2002, 09:38 AM:
 
I am indeed that very engineer North of the border!

Just a minute! Why am I 'infamous'?? A legend in my own lunchtime?!


 


Posted by Ken McFall (Member # 845) on 06-29-2002, 09:19 AM:
 
As one of the replys has already stated, the Westrex towers are very reliable and go on and on and on ......

The bearing problem is simple to fix. Undo the three bolts on the spool pin plate and slide it off the shaft. You will then see three threaded holes in the drive plate, one of them, the middle one will be empty. Undo the two allen screws in the other two holes and put one of them into the originally emply hole and tighten it up. This will cause the inner section of the drive plate to pull out thus releaseing it from the shaft. You can then remove the whole thing. This is the way you would change a belt. The easiest way to resolve your problem is to place a washer onto the shaft between the bearing and the drive plate. Remove the screww from the middle hole of the drive plate and replace both of them back into their original holes. Slide the whole assembly onto the shaft taking care not to push the whole assembly together to tightly. It should turn freely but without any noticable play. Tighten the two screws up again to clamp the drive plate securly in place. Check again for any play, repeat if required. Replace the spool pin plate and you should be back in business. As for buying a new tower, thats a silly suggestion. Provided everything is in good condition the only things that need attention are the bearings and the capacitors as the motor torque will fall off as these age and you will have to run on higher settings as a result. Any problems feel free to call and I can talk you thru. 07956 250914.

Regards Ken McFall.
 


Posted by Michael Hunt (Member # 772) on 07-04-2002, 02:03 AM:
 
Hi Pete,

Paul from South Wales has mentioned you on a few occasions, particularly when he was touring the country adapting Westrex soundheads to take reverse scan LED's
 


Posted by Pete Naples (Member # 761) on 07-05-2002, 01:39 PM:
 
Ah. My dear friend Paul.

God rest him, he is missed by us all.
 






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