This is topic Progector to sound head mounting in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by Geof Abruzzi (Member # 1312) on 06-25-2002, 12:15 PM:
 
Our theater has a kind of franken-projector: Pieces from here and there. The Projector itself is a Brenkert (BX-60, I think), and the soundhead is currently a RCA 9030. We have a replacement sound head - Simplex SH-1020, that I would like to install.

Apparently we'll need to fabricate the mount to the RCA pedestal, but I've been told that the projector to soundhead mounting is standard, and the two should go together without problem. It's hard to tell if this is the case without disassembling, which I don't want to do if I don't have to, until the actual switch.

I need to know before I order the LED reader for the Simplex, so does anyone know if this will this work?

thanks,

Geof
 


Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 06-25-2002, 12:25 PM:
 
LED readers can be obtained for the 9030 as well. You might be better off ordering a LED reader for the RCA and use what you have.

Finding an adapter to mount the Simplex sound head to the pedistal could be a major problem. You will probably have to get a different drive gear, too. Mechanically, the BX* will mount to the Simplex sound head, providing you have the flatbar that bolts to the projector head's bottom. Without that, you are dead in the water.

And be careful with the bolt lengths that are used to bolt the bar to the projector head. If they are too long, you will bust the BX* casting.


 


Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 06-25-2002, 05:01 PM:
 
I would use the Simplex soundhead...

Call your nearest WOLK dealer for the proper adapter to mate your pedestal to the Simplex soundhead. Wolk has come up with, in the past year, brackets to go either way, RCA->Simplex or Simplex -> RCA

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
 


Posted by Andrew Walls (Member # 179) on 06-26-2002, 01:54 PM:
 
While I no longer have them, I have used those brackets from wolk on several occasions. Works like a charm when trying to bring franken projector to life.

- AW
 


Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 06-26-2002, 02:53 PM:
 
(Donning the flame proof suit, blast deflectors, and metal fragment absorbers...)

OK - I am trying to visualize what the 1020 looks like. If it is like the 1004 or 1007, then I say: BAH!

I would use it only if that is all I had. They are a good soundhead, don't get me wrong on that. On a used equipment installation, I will accept either an RCA 90** or a Simplex SH-10**, whatever is available.

The thing that irritates me about some of the older SH10** sound heads is their lateral guide roller bracket. They have been known to snap off on the head, warp, and allow the film to skew all over the place, and the release trigger set screw works loose and screws up the locking shaft. However, I never had that problem with the 5-Star.

I never had an RCA fall apart......but I have had plenty of Simplex's fall apart in that area.

Why go through the expense of buying an adapter, gear, and all that other crap when you don't need it? Use the RCA and just put the reverse scan in it. That's all.

Sounds like you are making too much unnecessary work for yourself, and what you gain will be next to nothing, unless your 9030 is in a bad need of overhaul.


 


Posted by John Anastasio (Member # 607) on 06-26-2002, 08:50 PM:
 
For that matter, overhauling a 9030 is pretty straightforward job. Replacement gears, bearings and gaskets are readily available and it's a pretty robust, but simple soundhead to work on...much better built, in my opinion, than any of the Simplex heads.
 
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 06-26-2002, 10:05 PM:
 
The 1020 is an excellent soundhead the compartment under the excitor is deeper to allow a plugin preamp
 
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 06-26-2002, 10:19 PM:
 
Almost without exception, I can get a Simplex soundhead to align better than an RCA...I've had RCA lateral guide rollers, more often than not allow the film to weave too much.

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
 


Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 06-27-2002, 12:38 AM:
 
Too much WD-40. As far as the roller, shaft, bearings and spacers are concerned, they are damned near identical in design. So why the difference other than maybe they are worn out or gummed up with coagulated projector oil and/or WD-40?

Gordon, those 1020's have deeper compartments to store more crap in.

Does or did the 1020 have that exciter turret that never worked properly? Or were they discontinued as a bad idea in that model?


 


Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 06-27-2002, 08:35 AM:
 
I have just found that the whole pinch roller head to be sloppy on the RCA's I've dealt with. I'm not a big fan of their exciter holders either. Ya know, the head was OK for mono.

As to the Simplex vintages. The exciter "turret" as you call it was only on the indoor models (those models also shouldn't have springs on their door stays since gravity would keep the doors open). The exciter holder we all think of in the Simplex was really the Drive-In holder....

However, most people replaced that crappy turret with the drive-in holder and Simplex did indeed can the turreted exciter lamp in the SH-1020 version which was common to both indoor and drive in.

Century had one of the coolest double exciter holders though...one pointing up, one pointing down. Separate lateral adjustments for each too. In fact, the Uptown still uses them. Why Century discontinued it so long ago is beyond me. It worked and, unlike Simplex, you couldn't just pull out the single Century exciter holder.

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
 


Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 06-27-2002, 02:24 PM:
 

 
Posted by Geof Abruzzi (Member # 1312) on 06-27-2002, 02:40 PM:
 
Thank for the comments and suggestions. The RCA we have seems pretty worn, and the simplex was purchased (prior to me) as a replacement for it. I will look into the Wolk adapters. I'm somewhat new to this world, but I'm learning quick. Again, thanks.

Geof
 


Posted by John Anastasio (Member # 607) on 06-27-2002, 04:47 PM:
 
Wolk definitely has them. I just ordered one myself so that I could hang a Ballantyne on an RCA pedestal. They retail for $125.
 
Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 02-04-2005, 09:07 PM:
 

It has been 953 days since the last post.


 
Posted by Justin West (Member # 920) on 02-04-2005, 09:07 PM:
 
I am wanting to mate a BX-100 to a 9030 and I need a plate that serves like the bar on the SH-1000s. I found an old Century C that had a 1/4" plate attached to its base, the plate extends somewhat past the back and front walls of the C's casting and the shape of the plate looks something like a backwards "F". I have no clue what this old C used to be attached to but I wondered if the plate might be recognizable as being for an RCA soundhead? FYI, the plate is attached to the base of C by two huge-headed inset screws.
 
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 02-04-2005, 09:29 PM:
 
Hi Justin,
Sounds like it may be the right one. Its the right thickness and if its black... then probably. A pix would help alot! There should also be a large hex shaped ecentric that goes through the plate right behind the head thats used to adjust the drive gear mesh.... The pin on the ecentric fits in a slot on the top of the sound head. if the ecentric stud is gone from the plate the approx. 1/2" hole for it should be there..... And yes the plate is attached from below with two 3/8 x 16 countersunk allen head screws.

Hope this helps!
Mark
 
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 02-05-2005, 07:30 AM:
 
Are you sure on the allen-heads Mark? My dusty memory seems to think the ones I've had to deal with are "slotted" just to make it more difficult.

Steve
 
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 02-05-2005, 09:31 AM:
 
All the RCA's I've worked with had allens..... Perhaps someone in both the Midwest area and the Mountain states area was smart enough to throw the slotteds into the verticle file.... [thumbsup]

Mark
 
Posted by Bob Koch (Member # 1062) on 02-05-2005, 01:12 PM:
 
This plate should be the one for a 9030/50 soundhead to the Brenkert projector you have
 
Posted by Bob Peticolas (Member # 328) on 02-05-2005, 05:37 PM:
 
Geof started this thread with the question of mounting the Simplex sound head on the RCA pedestal. Well, we did go to Wolk and got an adapter. It was a little off in that the Brenkert was a little lower than with the RCA shound head. We fussed with it and got the projector almost up to were it was. Then a little alignment of the Knisley lamphouse and the picture was just as bright and even as it was before. It has run just fine for the past two years or so.

Now, it's a moot point as we have added a BACP penthouse dolby reader and a CP-650 to our lineup. Now the Kelmar reverse scan LED reader in the Simplex is just backup to the digital.

Thanks for the interest and suggestions.
 
Posted by Justin West (Member # 920) on 02-05-2005, 10:18 PM:
 
Thanks, all, for your input. On this C, the plate was attached with "slotted" inset screws...large headed and I am going to have to find a giant flathead screwdriver to get enough leverage or torque on them to turn 'em without tearing up the slots!
 
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 02-06-2005, 01:51 AM:
 
Justin,
It is not at all difficult to loosen those slotted screws and it can be done without damaging them. Lay the head on its side and with a screw driver thats half the width of the slot put the drivers blade against half the slot at as much of a right angle as possible and use a small hammer to tap the screws (sideways) to loosen them up. These screws are hardened and this works every time without damaging the screws.
Replace the screws with 3/8-16 Allen heads of the same length as all "smart" technicians will do. This will allow very easy removal of the plate in the future.

Mark
 
Posted by Justin West (Member # 920) on 02-06-2005, 08:58 PM:
 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
Lay the head on its side and with a screw driver thats half the width of the slot put the drivers blade against half the slot at as much of a right angle as possible and use a small hammer to tap the screws (sideways) to loosen them up. These screws are hardened and this works every time without damaging the screws.
Okay, Mark, I will try that...thanks! [thumbsup]
 




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