Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Simplex Shutter Loose

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Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 07-18-2002, 06:38 PM:

The shutter on my #2 Strong/Simplex 1060 projector is loose. I was getting shutter ghost during the credits. There wasn't any more room on the adjustment on the top of the machine.

I stopped the show, took off the side panel and could see that the shutter was out of time. So I grabbed my Allen wrenches and tried to loosen the shutter so I could turn it. I discover that I could move the shutter on the shaft without loosening the Allen screws. So I retimed it and tried to tighten the screws. I had difficulty figuring out which Allen wrench to use. It seemed to be in-between sizes. So I just closed the side cover and got on with the show.

Next stop is the hardware store to buy the best, most expensive set of Allen wrenches I can find, with the balls on the end so I can do it an angle.

Other than that, does anybody have any advice on how to tighten the shutter on the shaft?

Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-18-2002, 07:47 PM:

Be sure to get some metric allens as well. Or maybe you were using metric allens?

I've noticed that the shutter will always rock back and forth a little tiny bit even when super tight on the shaft (it is actually the shaft rocking back and forth). I usually only have to loosen one of the allen screws before I can rotate the shutter around (the screw closest towards you). When you get it all set, spin the flywheel back slowly so the screw is at a more accessible angle and tighten it down as you hold the shutter with the other hand so it doesn't spin. Oh and before you do ANY of this be sure to re-center the shutter knob on the top of the projector. Once you get everything closed back up you will probably have to adjust with that knob ever so slightly anyway.

Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 07-18-2002, 10:08 PM:

You can buy a set of "T-Handle" wrenches if you like. You can get the same brand that comes in the Christie Kit if you look at "Northern Tool".

You'll find they come in VERY handy for doing things like working on shutters, etc. The extra long reach makes the job a LOT easier. You can flex the tool just a bit if you need to get at a screw that's at an angle.

One thing to watch out for with the ball end wrenches. The "neck", just above the ball is a weak point which increases the likelihood that the tool will break. Of course, Murphy's Law says it will break at the most inopportune time, in the most inopportune place. I learned the hard way. There's a screw in the gate of a Century that still has a broken wrench stuck in it to this day.

Geez! I hope nobody ever has to adjust that gate!

I'm just hoping that somebody hasn't stripped out the head of that set screw. It OUGHT to be a SAE.
Most of the time when I find a loose shutter loosening it, rotating it on the shaft and tightening it again takes care of it. If the screw has lost its "bite" on the shaft this will give it something to grip.

Posted by Peter Dougherty (Member # 686) on 07-18-2002, 10:41 PM:

When I did booth maintenance a few years back I used two good sets of regular allan wrenches and a full set of X-celite interchangeable "Series 99" drivers, handles and extensions (thank you Rick for steering me onto those!). These are made by Cooper Tools.

I bought the ball-headed ones only to have two of the balls break in the first month, therefore I strongly recommend the allan wrenches with no balls.

Guess I was a real ball-breaker.

Ahem.

Here's a URL to one vendor's Series 99 line of hand tools (not sure if they've been given the Barbara Feldon Seal of Approval).
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/tmt/ser99intool.html

------------------
Cheers,
PJ Dougherty

W2IRT

Posted by John Eickhof (Member # 323) on 07-19-2002, 01:37 AM:

Hi Ian, first, make sure the shutter is actually spinning on the shaft and it is not backlash in the gears. Then, replace the two screws, they should be 8-32 x 7/8" allen head machine screws. I would suggest running a tap through also before installing the new screws. I have seen the shutter threads get stripped or cross threaded thus they feel evry tight, yet the hub is not sufficiently clamped onto the shaft.
Have fun, Post if you still have trouble, or email me.
John

------------------
John Eickhof President, Chief Slave
Northwest Theatre Equipment Co., Inc.
P.O.Box 258
Wendell, ID. 83355-0258
208-536-5489
email: jeickhof@nteequip.com

Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 07-19-2002, 09:26 AM:

Wera Tools makes a serries called the Vario set that is far superior to the Xcelite 99 serries in both tip hardness and handle fit
Also the handles are ergomaticly fit you hand

Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 07-19-2002, 05:00 PM:

I thought I had this solved last night. But nooo, just as I was sitting on the can this afternoon, my assistant called me on my cell phone and told me that the shutter ghost was back. So I talked him through the adjustment and I am waiting for this show to end so I can take another crack at it.

The shutter is spinning on the shaft. So every start-up it moves a little bit more.

Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 07-19-2002, 06:40 PM:

Ian,

We are having a similar problem on one of our machines. We are thinking of throwing them away and getting Kinotons, which I think would eliminate the problems we are having. You should do the same. What? Not an option? Well then I think the suggestion above about re-threading the hole and putting in new screws would be your best bet.

Posted by Rick Long Jr (Member # 541) on 07-19-2002, 11:17 PM:

Some allen key kits do not include the very important 9/64th's size. This could be why you had difficulty.

Posted by Michael Rourke (Member # 1142) on 07-19-2002, 11:36 PM:

I had a reoccuring travel ghost problem, every time I adjusted the shutter timing it would gradually get worse on the next show. It turned out to be a loose colar nut on the intermittent bearing that threw the shutter out of time with excessive vibration. This was on Century's, but I would just as soon check all your fittings and screws on the drive side of your Simplex.

It might be as simple as the shutter hub screw holes bering worn out, that has happened to me before.

Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 07-20-2002, 01:05 PM:

Turns out that it is a cracked coller where the screws go through to tighten it. I have another shutter on order that is supposed to be delivered today. I just have to replace it and in theory the problem is solved.

Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 07-20-2002, 03:32 PM:

The new shutter arrived 18 minutes to show time. The projector was already theaded. The tools were already in place. Actually I just needed the one size Allen Wrench. I opened her up, removed the parts. Was appauled by the dirt inside. I got the small shop-vac and cleaned her out and put in the new shutter. I timed it by eye and buttoned her back up. I still had 5 minutes to spare.

I started the projector, chased the ghost with the ajusting knob and I'm done.

Posted by Pat Moore (Member # 380) on 07-20-2002, 08:59 PM:

Hi Ian;

I'm pretty sure you've got it now. How old is that machine? I'm surprised about the cracked collar on the shutter...

Glad it all worked out.

Pat

Posted by Ian Price (Member # 14) on 07-21-2002, 12:41 PM:

The machine is 10 years old. I think whoever did the shutter the first time over tightened it a bit. The crack probably took years to develop. It's just one of those things.

This is actually the second time I have had to replace a shutter. In both cases the old shutter was a two piece adjustable shutter and was replaced with a one piece shutter. I'm sure adjustable shutters were for drive-in theatres or places where they were trying to maximize light output. But with our 10 X 24 foot screens we don't need to worry about light output. We got too much and we like it.