This is topic Changeover wont close?? in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by John Westlund (Member # 913) on 07-31-2002, 12:27 AM:
Im hooking up a Raven Mini-Pac automation that has never worked. The changeover never would open. If I open the changeover with my hand and flip the switch to close it snaps shut. Ive switched the relays for open and close and still the same result. there is a red, white, and black wire hooked up to the automation. There is a white, brown, and black wire coming out of the changeover. Id like to get this thing to work so any help is appreciated.
Thanks, John
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 07-31-2002, 12:50 AM:
The Raven Mini-Pec manual is here on the manuals page. We also use the Mini-pec in the Skyline Drive-in theater in Shelton, Wash.The wires coming out of the changeover are:
White-COMMON
Brown-CLOSE
Black-OPEN
Posted by John Westlund (Member # 913) on 07-31-2002, 12:51 AM:
I looked at that manual and its nothing like what I have really. Mine says Mini-Pac with an A on the front.
Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 07-31-2002, 01:08 AM:
Then try the Edlo Pac manual instead. Edlo Industries took over the former Raven stuff.
Posted by Darryl Spicer (Member # 711) on 07-31-2002, 09:26 AM:
I am mostly familure with the Kelmar dowser units. In those they use selenoids to move the changeover. Maybe one of the selenoids in your changeover has gone bad.
Posted by John Westlund (Member # 913) on 07-31-2002, 12:32 PM:
I should have added that the changeover is a Zipper and is on a Century SA.
Posted by Randy Stankey (Member # 64) on 07-31-2002, 01:14 PM:
Do check the solenoid(s) to be sure they aren't burned out.Try putting a meter on the connections at the solenoid to see if the automation is "asking" the solenoid to open/close.
Then unconnect the lines from the automation and put a continuity/ohm meter on the coils to see if they are open or shorted.
Also, you might try removing the unit from the projector and hooking up a fuse/switch combo to the coil connections and test them out with 120v (or whatever the proper voltage is) to see if they work.
Do keep the pulses short so as not to burn out the coils, in case they were working in the first place.
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 07-31-2002, 08:01 PM:
Oh, those "Zippers" seem to have problems. If the coils are good and the COC and COO voltages are reaching the coil and they still don't work, I would recommend the armature shaft (or plunger, whatever you would like to call it) be cleaned and that the drag ball and spring is properly adjusted. I know this is not politically correct, but I have on occassion removed the ball tension nut and bolt on the top of the douser case and gave it a drop of projector oil now and then. It seems to work for about a year or so before it has to be removed, cleaned, and re-adjusted.
While you are at it, make sure that damned Yogo speedometer cable is not jamming in the tube, and the rest of the linkage operates freely.