This is topic Simplex 35: more questions in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.


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Posted by William Hooper (Member # 71) on 08-05-2002, 01:14 AM:
 
This month's archaeology project continues to include the Simplex 35 projector.

1. The intermittent to go back in #1 looks different from the one in place in #2. #2's, which more likely came with the machine, seems to have something like a collet at the end of the shaft near the flywheel; the replacement for #1 does not. Are there different models, & are they safely interchangeable?

2. They've got no framing light or base, just threading lights & dangling wires. My guess from the parts manual is that the transfomers went in the oblong holes at the rear on the off side of the casting. Where did they get their power? Just a dangling AC cord to a pedestal receptacle? It would be nice to see, how much do these babies run? Why didn't they use just low wattage 110 v bulbs?

3. They've got what looks like a Simplex 4 Star head with a new casting, or just sandblasted & repainted. What kind of lubrication goes on those gears back there? There's a VCR-operations-manual-like pictogram in the manual's lube chart showing a representative gear with an oiler, but there are no oilers on these shafts.

4. The lubrication chart also indicates a twist to the grease cups on the motor. These motors have no ID but instead a pretty uniform black paint job, no grease cups, & just allen-headed grub screws in those locations where the grease cups were indicated. Do I install zerk fittings or grease feeders? If zerks, how many squirts of grease, & what kind?

5. What's the method of determining which pulley is on here, so spare belts can be ordered?


 


Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 08-05-2002, 02:17 AM:
 
1. I think you will find that the movements are interchangable.

2. The transformers were located elsewhere. That oblong hole is supposed to have a terminal strip to interface the framing lights with an external transformer.

3. Some people say 30 weight non-detergent motor oil, some say 40 weight. I use 30 weight, and have not had any problems.

4. Forget about the grease cups. More than likely, the motor has sealed bearings and external grease cups are a thing of the past.

5. Wait a minute.....you cited a 4-star sound head. That's the SH-1004/1007 series. It has a gearbox, a constant speed sprocket, and a lower holdback sprocket. The 5-star has only one sprocket, and has no gearbox. It is strictly belt driven with a notched timing belt (maybe a Poly-V).

Are you referencing the pully that is part of the actual projector head drive gear on the constant speed sprocket shaft like the SH-1000? If so, that was for a belt that drives the take-up magazine's shaft. If you are using that configuration, you make your belts to fit. Round thane is a yellow colored plastic belt most people use these days, and that is cut to length and butted together with a special barbed fitting. If you have a leather belt like the old Singer sewing machines had, you cut them to size and butt them together and secure the ends with a hog ring.


 


Posted by Dick Prather (Member # 1136) on 08-05-2002, 03:41 AM:
 
What you might have is a very old XL intermittent. They have some different screws and bushings. They also made a hi-speed version which looks different from the film side. All will work properly in the projector. A picture would help identify the style of movement.

The framing light is a 6-8 volt #55 bulb which is also in the door. A 6 volt transformer was located in the base. Framing light was on a casting which put it in back of the framing aperture in the film trap. casting was fastened by 2 allen cap screws. The opening in the back should have had a terminal strip for the wiring and a cover over ot with wires going out below. Simplex bases had a special plug for the framing lamp. Sounds like you may be missing the framing lamp casting and socket.

If you have a SH-1000 or XL soundhead use 30 wt non detergent oil in the gearbox. If there is no mark on the oil glass fill to just below the lower soundhead sprocket shaft. The motor grease cup were probably removed when the soundhead was rebuilt ans shielded bearings were installed. No greasing should be necessary here.

If you do have the older soundheads you will need a Simplex drive kit. Your manual will show you which one to get. They used gears instead of belts. The only belt is the take up belt only if you ure reel to reel.

Hope this helps somewhat.
Dick
 


Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 08-05-2002, 10:15 AM:
 
If you have a high-speed movement and it is a good one, don't let someone boondoggle you out of it. Those things are worth some money as compared to the standard movement.
 
Posted by William Hooper (Member # 71) on 08-06-2002, 03:59 AM:
 
Thanks, guys!

The belt is for the take-up, I'm afraid the day had been getting long.

 


Posted by William Hooper (Member # 71) on 08-26-2002, 03:49 AM:
 
Thanks, I've found the 2 transformers for the framing lights, one is dead.

Does the 6 V xformer power anything besides the framing light?
They look big enough to power an attic full of Lionel trains.
What's the usual modern replacement xformer?

 


Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 08-26-2002, 04:21 AM:
 
1. Normally, they supply the power to the door lights as well as the framing light.

2. You can get them at Radio Shack, but much better quality transformers can be obtained from your electronics supply house.

If you can't find a 6 volt transformer, just simply change the light bulbs to a 12 volt lamp, and use a 12-volt transformer. I prefer that because 12 volt bulbs are easier to find. They usually cost the same.


 


Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 08-26-2002, 05:38 AM:
 
I say keep em at the 6.3 volt lamps (#55)...it is the standard and #55 lamps are not that hard to find. Any decent dealer will stock them. As to the replacement transformer...we supply STANCOR in a 5 volt version so the lamps last longer.

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
 


Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 08-26-2002, 01:57 PM:
 
Notice the key word "If".

Let's not forget that many smaller towns don't have a Radio Shack or an electronic parts house.

I'll opt for a 12.6 volt door bell transformer from the hardware store across the street, and a couple of 12.6 volt bulbs from the auto parts house down the road a block or two if the hardware store does not have them before I special order something at 3 times the price plus shipping.


 


Posted by Frank Angel (Member # 248) on 08-27-2002, 09:36 AM:
 
I swapped out all the 6v transformers and now have 12v and use 5w halogen high intensity bulbs -- same as they use in Little-lite brand sound &lighting board pilot lamps. They are much, much brighter than the 6v variety. Only down side is that they a bit pricey for a pilot bulb.

Frank
 






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