This is topic P35GPS Dowser Question in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.
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Posted by Manuel Francisco Valencia (Member # 710) on 09-08-2002, 09:20 PM:
Just like anyone else who has Christies I have a hell of a time with these dowsers. I have tried everything to get these POS's up and keep them up. But by accidednt I have found somehting that might help. One of our rods was bent to shit so it I took it off. After doing that the dowser had no problem locking into position. Obviously the rod on that particular projector was providing resistance but I began to wonder if all rods have a little bit of resistance, bent or not. I took one off of a projector that was perfectly fine as far as the rod goes but still had problems with the dowser being pulled up all the way. Sure enough that relieved the problem. I have thought of different ways to deal with this situation because removing the rod is just a bad idea as I see it. The only thing I could think of is lubricating the shaft of the rod or bore the hole over in the top of the projector. I would like to bore the hole because having to constantly lubricate the rod would be a pain, however, it is a less drastic approach. Has anyone else done anything like this. Tell me your thoughts before I tear apart my projecotrs.
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 09-08-2002, 09:53 PM:
Remove the dousers completely! Be sure to have completely opaque film after your leader, like fullcoat mag or other stuff that Film-Tech can sell you. Once this is rolling through your projector, a cue will tell the exciter to turn on, only the exciter is no longer required, since you use red readers. So instead it turns on the xenon (after it is properly rewired to do so by a qualified individual). The full coat mag goes through and then your picture appears. At the end of the show, the end cue turns off the "exciter" which of course turns off the xenon. Problem solved! No more douser issues ever! Of course you'll need a capable automation to do this.
Posted by Wes Hughes (Member # 981) on 09-08-2002, 11:51 PM:
I think removing the changeover douser completely is a terrible idea.But I have no advise for the sticky christie dousers.
Posted by Brian Tristam Williams (Member # 1235) on 09-09-2002, 04:13 AM:
Our projectionist make use of rubber bands to keep the little bastards up.
------------------
"One man can make a difference."
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-09-2002, 05:23 AM:
quote:
"I think removing the changeover douser completely is a terrible idea."
Wes, if you think it is a terrible idea, please give us reasons as to why you think this is such a terrible thing to do. Otherwise your post will be completely useless to the readers.
This is actually a fantastic idea. Imagine you are running a multiplex and you need to be able to rely on start timers...but oh no the dousers don't open on their own because you have the older style! What about those older dousers that melt and you have to physically fight them to open/close? Douser solonoids that have died are just another problem. Then there are the occasional dousers that like to fall down during a show. Yes, your patrons will love you for that. Putting the xenon on the exciter circuit completely eliminates this problem and gives your patrons the EXACT same show on screen. Plus you will never again change out a douser blade or solonoid. That's money, labor and anguish saved.
Manuel, it only requires moving 2 wires. 
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 09-09-2002, 05:02 PM:
Why not just replace the crappy Christie changeover blades with the new style? Are they expensive? I know that Century changeover blades are only about $10 and I have a hard time believing that Christie parts are much more expensive. (Feel free to prove me wrong; I haven't had the "pleasure" of working with Christie projectors.)Also, do all Christie projectors have LED soundheads? If not, the "rewire the automation" idea might not be appropriate. Also, it wouldn't work in a changeover house, of course.
BTW, if anyone needs small quantities of mag fullcoat, let me know. I just bought a 1000' roll, and there's no way that I'll need more than half of it.
Posted by Wes Hughes (Member # 981) on 09-09-2002, 06:23 PM:
I think that when you remove a changeover you are disabling an important part of a projector. It may be good to solve a problem temporarily, but the ORIGINAL problem (sticking blades) should be addressed and corrected. Altering the basic design of the machine seems ridiculous to me, even if the original design was terrible to start. Little things could be an issue...like what if you don't have the appropriate opaque leader on hand to properly set this up? Seems silly, but it certainly would eventually happen in a real world mega-plex booth. Then you have someone using the hand douser or putting their hand in front of the lens....or, doing nothing at all using a clear leader. And, you have effectively "redesigned" the automation...and that is assuming that one even has automation capable of being rewired to control the lamphouse. I would be SLIGHTLY more inclined to agree with you if the machines being crippled of their dousers had working fire dousers, but many newer machines do not. I am, however, a slight bit of a traditionalist, and I am partial to Century and Simplex (older) equipment. I do not have any problems of note with my changeover blades, or with my zipper and kelmar solenoid units. I have the luxury of being able to choose the equipment that we operate...I know many of you do not and have to work with what you've got. So one reason I think it is a bad idea is simply because I have no issues with what I operate. In the end I just want something more than a hand douser to control the light in my machines.
I could probably think of more reasons if I thought long enough...
I might like this idea more if I was exposed to it in a real operating situation...but right now with my machines, the dousers stay for certain. 
Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 09-09-2002, 07:31 PM:
I have seen modifications installed with a standard zipper changeover...end of problem; this was at one of the cinemas where German and Angel work in Venezuela. Many Kinoton projectors do not have a hand douser ( optional ) and has interlock wiring so the lamp will not light until motor operation; so the picture changeover has little time to fry in the heat.
Richard Fowler
TVP-Theatre & Video Products Inc. www.tvpmiami.com
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 09-09-2002, 08:33 PM:
quote:
Altering the basic design of the machine seems ridiculous to me, even if the original design was terrible to start.
[sarcastic] Great philosophy! We should all just conform! Manufacturers know best. Us people who actually use the equipment every single day aren't too bright and should just rely on the manufacturers to solve problems. [/sarcastic]
Most significant design changes come from the field. Read the review on the Speco LP280 Digital Platter in the Reviews section of this site.
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-10-2002, 03:44 AM:
Wes, any...yes ANY automation can be "modified" to fire the xenon at the appropriate time. However this really isn't "modifying" anything, as it is just connecting one thing to a different circuit. Big whoopie. The automation doesn't know any different and so what if you have exciter based systems? Just leave the exciters on all day or connect them to the xenon circuit so the exciters fire with the start button and extinguish when the failsafes drop.I'll just leave the discussion with the statement that the theaters I have set up in this manner have had ZERO problems since and the projectionists are happy because they don't have to deal with any bs and the corporate guys are also happy because they are not spending money on buying replacement parts that are really not needed in a multiplex platter booth. While the Kelmar/Strong dousers that you will find on Simplexes and Centurys are quite reliable, the original douser design with Christie projectors leaves much to be desired. Also, sooner or later your dousers WILL die. In a multiplex situation, that can really screw things up where you have more than one or two projectors to deal with.
Posted by German Marin (Member # 918) on 09-10-2002, 03:50 PM:
The next week we will free of all Christie dowser problems! We'll change all our Christie's dowsers and replace it for kelmar, for me the most reliable.
Mr. Fowler's seen the dowser's modification, also the modification in the 2kw rectifier (now are 2) which now is into the Christie console. I'll take some pictures to be shown here. Christie bring a lot of problems to us while two prevost projectors made about 1970 are running perfectly.
Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 09-10-2002, 05:33 PM:
P-60 and P-70 machines run forever, as long as you keep the oil fresh
Richard Fowler
TVP-Theatre & Video Products Inc. www.tvpmiami.com
Posted by Dustin Mitchell (Member # 372) on 09-10-2002, 06:26 PM:
How long does it take a tech to do this modifiction (the kelmar dousers)? How much does it cost (without labor)?
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-10-2002, 07:03 PM:
Can someone upload a picture of the modification? I can't imagine this taking more than 15-20 minutes. Then again, moving two wires on the automation connector takes less than 1 minute and there's no more dousers to fail. 
Posted by Richard Fowler (Member # 893) on 09-10-2002, 08:10 PM:
There is plenty of room to get rid of the factory picture changeover. I have done upgrades on Cinemeccanica V-10 which required several trips to my shop to mill a slot in the film trap casting so we could use easily available parts.
Richard Fowler
TVP-Theatre & Video Products Inc. www.tvpmiami.com
Posted by Gordon McLeod (Member # 33) on 09-10-2002, 11:19 PM:
On the Vic10 I have connected a guardian solinoid to the yellow handle that sticks out the operating side
Posted by Manuel Francisco Valencia (Member # 710) on 09-11-2002, 01:02 AM:
I think I will rewire the xenon. From what it sounds like it I can't go wrong, unless of course I get the wires mixed up. Just out of curiousity Joe and Brad have you removed all of that other crap that goes with the dowser like the solenoid and such. And I take it that it is doUser and not doWser. Funny. I have seen it spelled both ways and thought the w was correct.
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 09-11-2002, 01:54 AM:
It is doUser because is "douses" the light when closed. I would take out the douser plate itself, which is easy to do, especially if you have been doing it again and again hammering them back flat. But of course you don't HAVE to remove anything. Just make sure it's not going to fall in front of the light source.
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-11-2002, 04:19 AM:
Actually, if you want to try it for a week or two to make sure you are happy with the setup, don't do anything but wrap a short piece of Artist's tape (3 inches or so) around the base of the douser shaft on the exterior of the projector while the douser is fully open. That will prevent it from falling and if you decide you don't like this option for some reason, all you will have to do is remove the tape and move those two wires back.Two things though...
#1 What kind of automation and equipment package is this?
#2 DO make sure you have your tech's permission before you do anything and be sure to label the two wires that you move (as well as anything else applicable) so if a new tech has to come in and do an emergency service call he will know what is going on.
If you have the standard (and current) Christie package which I think you do, on the backside of the lamphouse there will be a terminal board. You will want to move the wire on terminal #6 (this may be labeled #6b) to terminal #13. Then you will want to move the wire on terminal #7 to terminal #12.
The above paragraph will do the trick if you plan on removing the douser plates themselves, however if you want to leave them in, you will need to remove the wire going into terminal #8 and cap it off (and label it) with a wire nut or electrical tape. That wire will carry 110v through it once you power the system back up, so it can NOT be allowed to come into contact with anything. That will prevent power from getting to the douser and burning it up.
Make sure you have the power off when you do this. That's all there is to it on that kind of setup, but do post specifically what equipment you have so the terminations can be verified just to make double sure...and I'll say it again, make sure you have permission.
Posted by Manuel Francisco Valencia (Member # 710) on 09-11-2002, 04:18 PM:
I have Christie 3Q. Getting permission is the only thing that probably won't happen but then again I wouldn't want my tech to worry.
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-11-2002, 04:26 PM:
Let's see here...3Q automation has a different breakout schedule and you are out of luck. There is no provision for an exciter on the 3Q automation...so you can't do it without what somewhat major modifications, which I wouldn't recommend.At this point your easiest option is to order the new Christie douser plates that have the circular indention in them. They won't melt like the older ones do. Alternatively, you could retrofit a Kelmar douser on there like is being discussed in another thread.
Christie's part number for the new douser plates is 119263-002.
Here is a picture of the BAD douser plate and what eventually happens to it...
Here is a picture of the new GOOD douser plate...
Posted by German Marin (Member # 918) on 09-13-2002, 06:04 PM:
Kelmar Douser is a problem to place it over the P35GPS and we need to lift above the aperture drive assembly but is needed a base to be placed under the douser (base).
The original and the modificated douser base. The two holes (arrow) for cone screws to fix it to the new base we've done.
To move the douser base is needed to drill the douser assembly (arrow) it need a screw an a nut with its respective washes.
The final position of the base with its screws to be fixed over the new base.
The new Base.
I'll take the pictures on the booth with the full system completed the next tuesday, now I'm finishing the 11 dousers at the workshop (7 for El Recreo and 4 for Lagunita).
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 09-13-2002, 06:13 PM:
Question on terminology: I always thought that the "douser" was the thick metal plate that is part of a lamphouse and is controlled by a manually operated handle and that the "changeover" was the relatively small metal plate inside the projector that is operated electrically. Is my understanding horribly misguided here?
Posted by Daryl C. W. O'Shea (Member # 1303) on 09-13-2002, 06:47 PM:
Scott, I agree. I've always thought that the (manual) douser was the one you left closed with the lamp burning trying to figure out where the heck the motor cue is. The other I've always known as the changeover shutter.
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 09-13-2002, 07:12 PM:
Scott, you are correct, but it cannot be called a "changeover" unless that's what it actually does, and in most theaters it just "douses". Usually I use the term "hand douser" for the big metal one attached to the lamphouse that you move open and closed yourself. The "changeover" is usually referred to as the "electric douser", but in most places it is just shortened to "douser".
Posted by Steve Kraus (Member # 476) on 09-13-2002, 07:51 PM:
The manufacturers of both projectors and the devices in question continue to refer to them as changeovers and surely they know as well as anyone that most go to single machine booths. It doesn't make sense to have two terms for the same thing and changeover has a good three-quarters of a century precendence. Booth beginners will find both changeover and douser to be alien terms requiring explanation so there's really little incentive to call it a douser especially when that term then has to be modified with "hand" or "electric."Besides, the MANUALS section calls them changeovers and surely you're not going to contradict Brad! 
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-13-2002, 08:02 PM:
And there's that bizarre humor of yours again Steve that just fails to actually be funny. I have changed the wording on the manuals page so you won't lose any more sleep over such a ridiculously nitpicky thing. Oh wait, that was just about as funny as your comment above. Wow, I'm so funny.
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 09-13-2002, 08:11 PM:
So if we follow Joe's naming convention, the exact same part should have two different names, depending upon the booth environment in which it is installed, correct? That seems a bit confusing for those of us who work in several different booths (some platter, some changeover, one with two machines plus platter). And, anyway, the name plate still says "Zipper Electric Changeover"... For completeness, I'd be curious to know others' thoughts on how to refer to this part on machines which combine the functions of several different parts into one. For example, Kinoton projectors and Eiki 16mm machines don't have a separate hand douser--the changeover/electric douser is simply used for both functions and is beefier than a changeover/electric douser in a Century/Simplex type machine. On Cinemeccanica V5s, the changeover/electric douser also serves as a fire shutter (metal blade which drops down when projector RPM goes below a certain point). I'm sure that there are other examples of this as well. (Actually, Kinotons don't really need a hand douser, since the lamp only strikes when the motor is running, which is either a "feature" or a "design flaw" depending on one's point of view....)
Posted by Steve Guttag (Member # 268) on 09-13-2002, 09:15 PM:
The hand/electric, changeover and fire are all dousers or dowsers. And I preceed all of them with their proper names. Using the term changeover in relation to a particular douser congers up a particular vision of an item and where it is located in the light path. Steve
------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"
Posted by Steve Kraus (Member # 476) on 09-13-2002, 10:58 PM:
You changed the wording just to contradict a point I made as a joke? That's downright bizarre. It also means the category is now named differently than the manuals within. Or maybe you'd like to rewrite those too. Hey, whatever floats your boat.
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 09-13-2002, 11:18 PM:
I think it's downright stupid to even argue about this. I told you guys the way I've always heard just about everybody I've worked with refer to the components and then amazingly everybody starts to whine. Call 'em whatever you want, I seriously do not care. I have enough brainpower to figure out what you are talking about. If you don't have the mental capacity to figure out what I am saying then perhaps you should not be tinkering with electronic or mechanical equipment.
Posted by Steve Kraus (Member # 476) on 09-13-2002, 11:22 PM:
Oh I don't really care. I gave my opinion but yours is valid too. I'm just a traditionalist. No big deal though. Now lets all play nice.
Posted by Angel Hultzsch (Member # 1058) on 09-14-2002, 12:40 AM:
hi, i think you must be replace the douser by a kelmar, beliveme its the best, and by first time after the replacement the projector start automatic without problems, incrediblegreetings
Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 09-14-2002, 11:31 AM:
Joe -- I really didn't mean to start an argument here. I was genuinely curious, as I've heard the term "douser" used to refer to three different components, at least two of which (fire shutter, changeover) also have other names associated with them.
Posted by Steve Kraus (Member # 476) on 09-14-2002, 12:35 PM:
It might be a regional flavor as with "soda" vs. "pop." But I'd bet it's more varied than that, like from chain to chain or even house to house. In the past, the various union apprenticeship programs might have set the local custom. Nowadays, with so many booths staffed with relatively inexperienced personnel they may be latching onto whatever they hear their service tech call the components. After all, this is the person who taught them that they are projectors, not cameras!
Posted by Pat Moore (Member # 380) on 09-15-2002, 09:33 AM:
Terminologies are always interesting. Our manuals and literature guy, Jim Feehrmeyer, would probably be adamant that "dowser" is the correct spelling for the device discussed here, since "dowse" means to extinguish. The dowser is the device, whether it be a small plate, a "blade" or a large cast piece, that blocks the light.A manual dowser would have the plate attached to a handle that can be manually activated. Virtually all xenon lamphouses have a manual dowser.
The "changeover" is the electro-mechanical device that controls the "changeover dowser". Generally, the dowser blade itself is part of the projector, while the changeover can be provided optionally from various manufacturers.
Don't see too many fire dowsers (also called "fire shutters") on projectors anymore, with the advent of safety film and efforts to reduce costs. A lot of projectors don't even have them available. Our Simplex Studio lines still have fire dowsers that are activated by a spring-loaded governor assembly on the vertical shaft. The dowser blade itself is weighted so it drops into the light path when the projector goes below a certain speed. When running normally, the governor opens the dowser.
So that's Strong's terminologies (hope I got it right, Jim...). The dowser itself is whatever blocks the light, there are several types of dowsers and different ways to activate them. In today's automated operations, the changeover dowser is probably the most common one we have to deal with, so "changeover" and "dowser" have almost become interchangeable even though they refer to two different components.
Pat
Posted by Joe Redifer (Member # 3) on 09-15-2002, 10:59 AM:
According to www.dictionary.com "douse" and "dowse" have the same meanings, so I guess either spelling is acceptable.
Posted by Pat Moore (Member # 380) on 09-15-2002, 08:29 PM:
That seems right, Joe. I thought "douse" was when you throw water on something (douse the fire) but I've seen the two used almost interchangeably as well. It's Jim that tries to keep our continuity in literature at Strong.Pat
Posted by John Hawkinson (Member # 1135) on 09-15-2002, 08:53 PM:
Various other dictionaries (e.g. the OED) do not have them agreeing. There seems to be general consensus that "dowsing" can refer to searching for water with a divining rod (dowsing stick), and "dousing" cannot. On that basis I'b be inclined to reserve the "w" usage for that meaning and stick with "douse" and derivatives...--jhawk
Posted by Steve Kraus (Member # 476) on 09-16-2002, 03:42 PM:
The level of our intellectual discourse has reached a new plateau when someone invokes the OED! Wasn't there an old maxim that if an internet debate goes on long enough someone will eventually invoke Hitler or the Nazis?
Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 09-16-2002, 06:14 PM:
I never had any real problem with the Christie Dowsers, although I think the linkages leave a little to be desired. The problem I have had with the Christies is the aperature changer. Although the machines were maintained spotlessly clean, the aperature plate would have to be "helped along" while it was changing.
As far as the arguement is concerned, who cares what it is called? The average monkey-brain does not know the difference anyway, and more often that not, they call it a "Flippy Thingys"
I call them "Change-over Dowsers" some people call the change-over dousers, dousers, Flippy Thingys, Zippers, and whatever else comes to mind. Although I do believe in correct terminology, I don't always use it, either.
Posted by Manny Knowles (Member # 1171) on 09-19-2002, 03:58 PM:
Are you talking about removing hand dowsers, too?
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-19-2002, 04:24 PM:
Oh no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no! Those need to stay no matter what.
Posted by Will Kutler (Member # 770) on 09-21-2002, 04:40 PM:
ManuelThere are two styles of Christie change-overs for these machines.
The early style was a real pain...they never stayed locked open. Lord knows how many times they dropped during shows and never kept their adjustment.
Christie came out with an improved design that works quite well...basically it is some parts to upgrade/convert and improve the older design. The new upgrades are now standard equipment, and the parts are available in kit form so that you can conduct the upgrade/conversion on the older units. I forgot the kit part #, so ask Bevan Wright.
Every once in a while they will need adjustment, and the best that I can say is that it is all by feel, but quite simple. If the cable does not travel smooth in the tube, then make very small "tweeks" on the tube until the cable is on center...then it will work like a charm. The new style uses a set screw spring ball plunger assembly that locks the douser open. This might also need occasional adjustment. Basically, just enough engagement is needed to hold the douser open...too much engagement will impede operation. And when tightening the locking jamb nut...just barely tighten it...torquing is not necessary and can damage the locking ball plunger assembly.
I did encounter someone who gooped the entire assembly (including the tube and cable) down with everyones favorite Lubriplate. This is NOT NECESSARY AND ONLY MAKES A MESS!
Speaking of Lubriplate. I have to get the specifics, but it is a product of Detroit, and one use is as a lubricant in machining and lapping brass.....
I have not seen the new style douser plates in action, but from what I have heard the warping problem has been solved.
Posted by German Marin (Member # 918) on 09-21-2002, 07:37 PM:
The new Kelmar base is placed just behind the penthouse. We've drilled the Christie's case, three holes, two for the base and the another one for the wire.
The Christie's douser was completly removed. The holes are show here. (When the pictures was taken the belts were being changed)
We must be carefull aligning the Christie's douser hole with the universal bell crank where we've done a new appropiate hole. We've took the strip from a solder electrode.
Posted by Manuel Francisco Valencia (Member # 710) on 09-22-2002, 10:43 PM:
Thanks for all the information. I have received some of the new dousers and they fell a hell of a lot stronger than the old ones. I'll do a little tweaking to the machines too. Or I can always use the all purpose hammer. All the information has been great guys. Also, Brad what automation do you have?
Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 09-22-2002, 10:46 PM:
Personally I use the magnificent Cadillac of automations, the CA21 in my screening room. However I service many others. Why do you ask? Is there a question hiding?
Posted by Will Kutler (Member # 770) on 09-23-2002, 08:25 PM:
In my last post in this thread I made a comment about Lubriplate being a product of Detroit. I may have made a mistake...This other product has a slightly different spelling...sorry.
Posted by Manuel Francisco Valencia (Member # 710) on 09-23-2002, 10:16 PM:
Just wondering on what you have and where mine stands when compared to others. There is plenty of talk on which projectors, consoles, platters, etc. are the best but hardly ever automation.
Posted by Michael Elam (Member # 788) on 09-27-2002, 09:31 PM:
The folks at Christie swear there is NO problem with their dousers, strange that one of their 'factory' techs came out couldn't get them to work but came up with a idea that would work...take the turret control and rotate it backwards so the pushbuttons are facing the
console., replace the rod with a straight one drilling a hole so it
can come straight up, you will need to replace the dovetail network
on the gear rod...it does work.
Posted by System Notices (Member # 2357) on 08-23-2006, 05:48 PM:
It has been 1425 days since the last post.
Posted by Carey Barber (Member # 1586) on 08-23-2006, 05:48 PM:
I also have a Christie P35GPS with douser issues.
I have replaced the older, warped dousers with the newer and tougher dousers (the ones with the circle in it)
The problem is that, even after replacing the douser, the blade still sticks. When the show ends, the douser is not able to drop, and the customers end up seeing a lot of junk at the end of the last reel they should not see.
I have searched thru Film Tech and read every posting I could find about this issue...
MODIFICATIONS
I do not think I will get approval from our tech for installing the Kelmar changeover. We are a 24-plex and part of a large chain, so this would be costly and they like things to be pretty uniform.
The same thing goes for the suggestion to just remove the douser completely and rewire the automation (in this case, CNA-200). I do not think I can get approval for such an alteration.
MY QUESTIONS
Are there any other hints for getting these to move smoothly? I do not see where it could be binding on anything.
Is there a 'sweet spot' for how far you put the rod and/or the flexible cable into the douser plate?
It was mentioned that you could lubricate the rod or bore the hole bigger. Has this helped anyone?
Any hints that anyone has for getting these brand-new, un-warped douser plates to work would be greatly appreciated.
Posted by Ken Lackner (Member # 1002) on 08-23-2006, 07:42 PM:
Drilling out the hole that the douser rod goes through to make it wider and easier for the rod to slide up and down usually works wonders.
Even for simple modifications like that you should always get approval from your engineer. ![[Wink]](wink.gif)
Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 08-23-2006, 08:08 PM:
Also be aware that if someone repeatedly holds the C/O button down for any great lengths of time the stator of the solenoids can heat up and distort and cause exactly the same sticking problem. I've seen this a number of times but too much in the last year. The same thing can happen on Kelmar/Strong dowsers too.
Mark
Posted by Monte L Fullmer (Member # 2797) on 08-24-2006, 01:05 AM:
I've noticed that Christie has, or is getting ready to come out with an excellent upgrade to the cable drawn dowser, and that is the side swinging dowser to replace this small weakness that the P35 units have (or had..).
Saw the demo at ShoWest this last spring - an excellent upgrade, to say the least.
-Monte
Posted by Darryl Spicer (Member # 711) on 08-24-2006, 03:14 AM:
![[thumbsup]](graemlins/thumbsup.gif)
. Nice repair bill!