Let me explain the problem. When i turn the movement over by hand, it has some binding, the binding gets really bad when i tighten the movement down<which is necessary to keep the oil seal tight>. The binding is tight enough that the pulley must be turned over by hand, using the inching knob on the motor doens't have enough force to get past the bind.

The other problem, whether loose or tight, is that the cam shaft will move in and out laterally upon every rotation, about 2mm. I've noted that when i hooked it up to the motor, upon starting it moves out, and stays that way while running, but upon stopping it moves back in.

I've taken both movements in and out several times, wondering if they may not be seating themselves correctly, but same results all times.

The cam shaft DOES NOT move like this when it is not installed in the projector.

I have a spare movement that I have also tried, fine alone, but in the projector it has the same issues with binding.
What do i need to do? I want to get this finished.

thanks
Danny

Ive bebuilt a few pro-35's, the trouble with the binding is right at the back, the intermittent movement can be rotated alittle on the bolts, just keep tightening down in different positions to find where it loosens up. I guess you can call this the backlash setting, its binding cuz the gears are too tight together, just rotate the sucker clock or counterclock wise a little, tighten and try it there.

shaun
 

I think you've got an outboard arm and bearing problem, less likely something with the intermittent.

Remove the outboard arm assembly and the coupler, then install the intermittent in the main frame. The rotation Shaun mentions sets the gear mesh of the intermittent to the vertical shaft of the projector. It basically rotates around the star shaft bushing. Allow just the slightest play between the intermittent and vertical shaft. Progressively tighten the bolts so gear lash is what you want and the O-Ring is compressed evenly. The mechanism should turn very smoothly at this stage.

Now install the coupler and outboard arm. Loosen the Outboard Bearing adjusting screw when you do it, to allow the arm to seat properly on the main frame. That adjusting screw is what keeps the star shaft and sprocket shaft in contact within the coupler. Too tight and the mechanism binds; if it's loose, the shafts bang back and forth and the coupler lasts about three days. Once you have those shafts JUST SNUG, lock the position of that adusting screw. Keep turning the machine by hand as you adjust that screw to be sure you detect no binding from being too tight. Now you need to set the location of the intermittent sprocket to the trap and you should be off and running.

If this doesn't do it, you might have a problem in the intermittent. There is an adjustment on the cam for its lateral position, a ball bearing with a threaded stud to locate it. If that's been badly beaten, you may not be able to get things set without a few parts.

Let us know if we can help...

Pat

Installed the Int. movement, tightened it sufficiently to compress the oil seal, it's binding again, the same as before! (ready to kick the dog) NOTE: this is with the outboard arm still removed.

The movement turns fine outside the projector, but once it's in there...
I guess this means that the coupler is good, at least.
Now what?

Danny
::feeling very distraught, if only i had the $$ to buy new...::

As mentioned above, gears can be adjusted too tightly, possibly causing the binding you're talking about. If you pull the movement & can't turn the mechanism by a front sprocket, something's wrong. Don't try this with the shutter... it might work... or you might strip out THAT gear.
 

Make sure the lash on your shutter gear isn't set too tight. If you have a little play there & you've oiled the machine up already, I don't have any further ideas about the resistance you felt when you turned the mechanism over. Mine aren't that tight, though I've run several changes of oil thru them since I took this place over.

Install the intermittent as suggested above, with a little play in the gear (run the intermittent all the way COUNTERclockwise, then back it off a bit in a clockwise direction. Tighten the bolts as Pat mentioned.

Had to edit here. Just figured out your terminology.

If you removed the coupler & outboard assembly, there should be nothing connected to the intermittent shaft itself. Therefore, there should be no reason why the intermittent would bind... since it's not connected to anything... again, assuming you adjusted the gear lash correctly.

Seems to me your "binding" has only a couple of places it can be traced to. Your mechanism itself could have a spot somewhere that's holding it up. This would translate back to the intermittent (since it drives everything), but wouldn't necessarily be CAUSED by it (again... be careful of that fiber gear!). Other than that, you might check that cam adjustment. The factory doesn't recommend messing with it... but if someone before you has tightened it down & somehow you're compressing the casting when you install the unit (are the bolts on the other side of the intermittent tight?), it could conceivably lock things up.

You'd need to take the flywheel off & back off the adjustment somewhat. This would also mess your sprocket alignment & require readjustment of the end play screw on the outboard assembly (though those should be backed off anyway when you're doing all this.

Best to see if you can get Pat to touch on how that cam should be set... There's nothing about it in any manual I've seen... just dire warnings about getting it wrong... so I'll pass on any suggestion there!

The drive belt on the motor shouldn't need to be very tight to get this thing running. Mine have upwards of 3/4 to 1 inch of "give"... though you might need to run yours for a while to get it loosened up that much.

BTW,With the intermittant and outboard arm still out, I've tried to turn the shutter by hand, it seems pretty tight, requires a bit of force to turn it.
 

Also the vertical shaft end bearing cups being out of position could cause some binding.

I'm so fed up with this damn thing.
Anyone have a used Kinoton for sale
 

Not knowing the condition of the projector before you got it, I'm assuming it was in workable condition. With the intermittent, coupler and outboard arm off the machine, the gear train should turn freely by turning the shutter. Then install the intermittent, coupler and outboard arm as described previously.

Gear "lash" or mesh on the PRO35 is set properly when there is just the slightest play between the two shafts the gears are on. On the shutter shaft, for instance, you should be able to rotate it slightly back and forth and feel a gap before the teeth engage. If there's no gap, the gears are too tight against each other. On the shutter assembly, that rear bearing is eccentric, so rotating it adjusts how tightly it fits to the vertical shaft.

That coupler and outboard arm can be a bear. Be sure the splined ends of the star and sprocket shafts have no burrs on them or they'll chew up the coupler's nylon bobbin. After the intermittent's installed, I always found it easiest to get the coupler onto the sprocket shaft first. Then use the outbaord arm to push the coupler into the frame and onto the star shaft. Use the intermittent sprocket to rotate the coupler until you feel the shaft enter it. Try the fit outside of the machine so you know the feel of it.

After you've got the coupler started on the star shaft, then orient the coupler body so the framing rack is to the rear of the projector where the framing shaft is. Use the framer to pull the coupler into the machine the rest of the way. Then line up the arm assembly and push it home. Be sure that outboard bearing adjustment is loosened up as described earlier.

It sounds from your last post that you've got things close. If the framer is moving the sprocket in and out, the outboard bearing adjustment needs to be reset. Depending on its age, there's a small nylon (really, really old) or brass allen set screw that locks down on the adjustment screw, a knurled screw on the end in line with the sprocket shaft. That screw adjusts the lateral position of the shaft. Loosen the set screw so the adjustment screw can turn. Work the framer back and forth as you tighten that adjusting screw until there's no more lateral movement. Turn the machine over by hand using the intermittent flywheel. It should be smooth and not biding as the intermittent sprocket turns. If it's tight on pull-down, loosen that outboard adjusting screw a touch -- I mean just a LITTLE bit, and see how that feels.

Don't forget to line up the intermittent sprocket before you run film.

Again, let us know how we can help. Strong's only a phone call away...

Pat

It has been 12 years since I rebuilt a PRO-35, I am going on what I remembered. So, I hope you comment on it as to my technical accuracy.

It would be reasonable for me to presume that both bearings are mounted on an eccentric bearing retainer so that the inner bearing races can be maintained perfectly purpendicular to the shutter shaft which would minimumize premature bearing wear. Could you comment on that, please?

Thanks - Paul

I think the comment was made that the shutter wasn't taken out, right? I think I'd recommend it, though, just to be sure that delrin gear (2768) is okay.

Pat