Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Smart Processor vs Dolby CP50

This is topic Smart Processor vs Dolby CP50 in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://ft-forum.com/ft/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004444

Posted by Sam Hunter (Member # 1119) on 01-15-2003, 11:21 PM:

Just how good is this beast?
MOD III Stereo processor with SMART Digital Magic Sound Controller
As compared to CP50.

[ 01-16-2003, 10:29 PM: Message edited by: Sam Hunter ]

Posted by Daryl C. W. O'Shea (Member # 1303) on 01-15-2003, 11:24 PM:

Sam, maybe you should edit your post so that it has a slightly more useful subject title. [Smile]

maybe 'MOD III Stereo processor vs. CP50'

Posted by Brad Miller (Member # 2) on 01-15-2003, 11:27 PM:

Per the forum rules "no teaser subject headers". Please change that a.s.a.p.

Go with the CP50.

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 01-15-2003, 11:55 PM:

CP-50 for sure! Mod 3 had thermal problems due to the three horizontal stacked PCB's.
Mark

Posted by Sam Hunter (Member # 1119) on 01-16-2003, 06:45 AM:

Hmmmm,
didn't seem like a teaser question. Guess I should have added what to it.
My bad.

Posted by Oscar Neundorfer (Member # 458) on 01-16-2003, 09:02 AM:

Sam,

The MOD III 4 channel version (with the 3 horizontal boards) did have heat problems which led to reliability problems. Later versions had additional ventilation slots on the chassis sides which helped a little. The 2 channel (front-surround) versions only had two boards horizontally and were not plagued much by heat related issues. They seemed to do much better in the long run than the 4 channel version.

The Digital Magic DM-6 was a very nice product which came out in the early days of digital soundtracks. It provided a very elegant way to add digital playback capability to your existing 4 channel system which had 4 channel processors (like CP50, CP55, MOD II, MOD IIB, U*S, etc.) without throwing out the processor. Just add the DM-6, a digital player (DA20 or DTS6 or both) add an amp to split the surrounds if needed, and play digital with ease with automatic reversion to the existing optical processor if digital failed. It worked very well, and we sold a boatload of them. Obviously it is not needed much at all today, but if you have one hanging around, it makes a very nice 6 channel audio controller with equalizers if you need such a thing.

Posted by Sam Hunter (Member # 1119) on 01-20-2003, 08:53 PM:

I lost out on the Mod III but I have a lead on either a CP45 or a CP50. In any case I will be using a Kelmar Bilateral pickup in my Leakfree RCA9030 and will be sticking with analog for a while so with that info in mind I will then need amps. Mind you a dont think I will need a super amount of power but I feel like 25-45 watts should be adequate for my needs. What I am not sure of is what all will I be able to do with this setup? or put another way what will the CPXX give me as far as output? From what I can come up with is Left, Right and Center and subwoofer. What am I missing and what does it take to get it.
Thanks!

Posted by Scott Norwood (Member # 30) on 01-20-2003, 09:05 PM:

The CP50 will give you unbalanced line-level outputs for each of the four channels. You will need four channels of amplification (more if you want to bi- or tri-amp), as well as loudspeakers and crossovers. With the CP50, you will also need a 100k Ohm linear pot to act as the main fader (you can get this at Rat Shack or get the Dolby remote fader). Later Dolby processors have the fader built into the front panel.

You can use whatever amplifiers you like; for theatre use, most people like the QSC MX, USA, or DCA series.

Posted by Pete Lawrence (Member # 130) on 01-21-2003, 11:33 PM:

Sam,

A CP50 will give you the best bang for the bucks. [thumbsup]

I've been using one at home for about a year now. It sounds great and does everything I currently need. Got one off Ebay with cat. 22 (Dolby A) cards. Purchased a second CP50 from a dealer, with cat.280T (Dolby SR) cards, for spares. Both were cheap. You get left, center, right, common surrounds and if you have a cat. 160 card (an option), a combined sub-woofer channel. The left and right surrounds are the same audio signal. Look for a CP50 that has the later versions of the cards and the newer, beefier power supply. There are several configurations so look at the manual so you know what your getting!

One point that hasn't been mentioned, I got caught on this one. You can install a pair of cat. 22 cards for Dolby A noise reduction, or a pair of cat. 280T cards for SR noise reduction. You can't have both A and SR in the CP50 at the same time, but you can add another chassis (one unit high) that holds the second set of cards. Dolby made one, but I couldn't find one. Instead I used a Smart SR1 to hold the SR cards. It's nothing more than a chassis that powers the cards and has audio switching and a few level pots. It cost me about $20 without SR cards.

The CP50 drives a pair of Crown Com-Tech 400 amps giving four channels. The sub is self-powered. Left, right, and center speakers are Tannoy studio monitors that look like small book shelf speakers sitting in front of the 10 foot wide screen. People look at the speakers and say "you can't really get any sound using THOSE speakers". If I turn the level up, the walls move. Really! And it sounds clean. Some people don't care for Crown amps, but I have no complaints. Get a good quality pair of amps. Hi-Fi equipment is fine so long as it's good quality. Also, stay away from cheap speakers!

Posted by Steve Kraus (Member # 476) on 01-22-2003, 12:28 AM:

A Type noise reduction is so rare now that there is little reason to bother with an external chassis for pushbutton switching of NR. Maybe if you're a private collector running a variety of old prints but even then I doubt I'd put any money into it when one can simply pop out the 280T's and plug in the 22's as needed.