Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Dead Breaker on a Strong Switching Power Supply

This is topic Dead Breaker on a Strong Switching Power Supply in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Joe Beres (Member # 678) on 05-10-2003, 08:22 PM:

I had a problem when powering up out our lamphoses today. (Changeover booth) I turned on the exhaust system, then the power supplies, then struck the first lamp. When I struck the first lamp, I heard a pop, and lost power to all of the above. After talking to a tech acquaitance, I think this happened in part because I struck the lamp too soon after turning on the power supply. After I reset the main breaker, the power supply for the lamp I tried to strike was dead, (The other is fine, and I am running the show from that one projector.) The 3 amp circuit breaker on the dead house will not reset. (the button is popped out, and will not stick, it feels loose.) We are thinking that the circuit breaker broke when it popped. Does this make sense thus far? If so, I have a few questions:
-Is this breaker replaceable? By me (safely?), or a tech? or does the entire supply need to go out to strong?

I would appreciate any thoughts on this matter. Thanks.

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 05-10-2003, 09:15 PM:

I haven't heard of problems from striking a lamp too soon.
Otherwise, it sounds like the breaker is defective, I don't think there's any other explanation for it not resetting.
Depending on the model, getting into a Strong switcher is quite a hassle. Maybe you can get at the breaker but it might not be easy. Nothing much to stop you from getting a screwdriver and seeing how accessible that breaker is!
Personally I just send them back for repair/exchange, if there's anything major wrong. The circuit is not published, special tools are likely to be needed to test the components, and truly deadly voltages are probably present inside.
Strong will cross-ship replacements.

Posted by Bob Peticolas (Member # 328) on 05-10-2003, 09:17 PM:

I've had that happen. The breaker popped and broke. I'm assuming that this is the 3 amp breaker on the front (top) of the Strong box. They are replaceable, by anyone familar with electronic repairs. Johnston Supply or any good electrical destribitor should have them. If you are comfortable with doing it, do it. (But turn and AC feed breaker off first. Or even better, un-plug the strong box if you can.)

This breaker is in the low current 110v control circuit and should have push-on connectors. Although some may have spade lugs bolted on to the breaker lugs with small nuts and bolts.

It's nothing that a good electrictian or electronics tech. can't handle.

Posted by Kenneth Wuepper (Member # 1174) on 05-11-2003, 08:27 AM:

Hello Joe,

Try turning off all power to the unit and then reset the breaker. If the breaker is not defective it will reset. If the breaker trips out again when energized it means that there is an electrical problem and the breaker is doing its job. Resetting the beaker into the overload will only trip it instantly.
KEN

Posted by Joe Beres (Member # 678) on 05-11-2003, 09:30 AM:

Thanks guys!

Ken,
I had all of the power disconnected and/or off, but it still wouldn't catch. It certainly feels broken, although I have very little experience with these little breakers.

If I, or another tech, was to replace this breaker, would it do anything to void a warranty?

[ 05-11-2003, 11:20 AM: Message edited by: Joe Beres ]

Posted by Ken Layton (Member # 133) on 05-11-2003, 11:14 AM:

What model (type number) is the power supply?

Posted by Joe Beres (Member # 678) on 05-11-2003, 11:19 AM:

62-80107 4-7KW

Posted by Kenneth Wuepper (Member # 1174) on 05-11-2003, 02:46 PM:

Joe,

You need to check the warranty on that unit before jumping in to fix it. If still under warranty, Strong will send the necessary parts and instructions.

Yes, unauthorized service of in-warranty materials can void the warranty as the manufacturer has then lost control of the quality of the product and the workmanship.

Posted by Paul G. Thompson (Member # 655) on 05-11-2003, 02:58 PM:

I don't know if that switcher has that big fuse in it like the others, but if it does, it may have blown. If I recall correctly (on the smaller power supplies) that if that fuse is removed and re-inserted within 15 minutes so after power supply shut-down, it'll blow it whether or not the power supply is connected to the mains.

This might be a worthless post, but it is just a thought as I popped a fuse without RTFM first.