Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE: Changing from E-7 to XL

This is topic Changing from E-7 to XL in forum Film Handlers' Forum at Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE.

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Posted by Jim Spohn (Member # 1547) on 05-19-2003, 10:33 AM:

I just obtained an XL head to replace one of my E-7s. The E-7 is on an RCA 1040D Soundhead, what will I need to replace the E-7 with the XL? I haven't looked the XL over except for a glance and the drive gear appears to be different. Any help is valuable.....Jim

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 05-19-2003, 11:11 AM:

The RCA drive assembly for the XL should still be available from Ballantyne - I just bought some parts for one. It's in the back of the XL book, assembly G-2068.
This one is (as far as I've seen) the only XL gear drive that has a completely closed mount for the idler gear hub bearings. The others have an open slot the gear sits in, so look at what you have - you may be lucky. Different soundheads have different gear tooth angles so you will need the whole kit, the projector drive gear has to match the idler gear and even if it has the same tooth count they may not mesh.

Posted by Dick Prather (Member # 1136) on 05-19-2003, 08:09 PM:

Jim,
In addition to what Dave covered very well be sure that your mounting bolts are not long enough to punch through the oil sump in the bottom of the XL. The XL being mostly ball bearing puts less load on start up so you may want to adjust the 1040's starting resistor for a slower start if necessary.

This is a similar set up to mine with XL's over MI-1050's with 1040 replacement motors. You may find the E-7 has a slightly steadier picture then the XL. I love my XL's but E-7's (and Motiograph AA/AAA)put out one of the most rock steady picture I have seen.

Posted by Dave Macaulay (Member # 813) on 05-20-2003, 08:08 AM:

The brake on the RCA should probably be removed. There shouldn't ever be a real need to stop the machine fast, and if one really punches the brake from high speed the XL intermittent drive gear (the fiber one that seems to be designed to strip) strips.
This assumes that the 1040D also has the big flywheel and brake like a 9030, but I can't imagine why that would need a soft-start circuit... I've yet to encounter a 1040.

Posted by Dick Prather (Member # 1136) on 05-20-2003, 04:22 PM:

Dave,
The MI-1040 does not have a flywheel at all unless a 1050 or 9030 motor was put on. Lots of 1040's were sold and many still in use. They and the 1050 had an adjustable large resistor with a start switch attached to the motor. They can start quickly if not set up. No brakes on these soundheads. Inching knob is between the motor and soundhead.
Dick

Posted by Jim Spohn (Member # 1547) on 05-22-2003, 09:48 AM:

Thanks for the information. You guys are the best!! Of my two RCA 1040s one of them has a large flywheel and the other just has the knurled coupling about two inches in diameter. The one I will be putting the XL on does not have the flywheel. Both units have the starting resistor. The tip about the legnth of the bolts is great info.....Thanks.....Jim

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 05-22-2003, 08:30 PM:

Unless your E-7 is in really poor shape why on earth would you want to install an inferior projector?
Mark @ CLACO

Posted by Jim Spohn (Member # 1547) on 05-23-2003, 04:09 PM:

Mark.. Your'e right on the money!! Right now my #1 machine has a cyclic whining noise. It's my thought that when I remove the drive gear between the sound and picture head (E7), I'll find out in a hurry which unit needs the attention. If it turns out to be the E7 making the noise I'll change it out while rebuilding the head. On the other hand if the soundhead is the problem I'll reverse the upper with lower worm gears (if it hasn't been done already) and put the E7 back on. I'm not looking forward to making adaptors for all my lenses and wiring etc. and finding aperature plates and filing them to fit. If I can use the E7 again I will......Jim

Posted by Mark Gulbrandsen (Member # 72) on 05-23-2003, 08:08 PM:

Jim,
If you find even some wear on the faces of the teeth on the bronze gears, especially upper bronze, you need to take a really close look at the worm gear with a high power lens to see if there are tooth like wear marks in the face of each tooth of the worm. This is very common and you will need to replace the worm when you do the gear box. If you don't it will do nothng but eat into the new faces of the teeth on the bronze gears. As far as the whine it could be alot of things to say the least.... Also, taking the load off the gear box still does not make any indication of the condition of whats inside. All you can do is pull it apart and do a close examination of the gear faces that contact each other.
Mark

Posted by Dick Prather (Member # 1136) on 05-23-2003, 08:16 PM:

Jim,
Does your E-7 noise sound like it is coming from the shutter end.

There is a oil hole in the rear of the shutter shaft with an oil cup. (unless your shutter shafts are Wolk replacements) Check parts manual to see what it looks like. Check and see if it is plugged up. If so clean and oil with Simplex oil several drops untill the oil works back in the shaft. After the oil works itself in there the noise will probably stop. This oil hole gets overlooked and will cause a whinning sound. Worst case is a bearing replacment.